Grey for Green?

[SurfT25]

I believe my green labeled coil is not working correctly.
Trying to time engine and light gun wasn't flashing regularly. Heard ticking from coil area and saw sparks jumping from coil lead to connection.
Took out lead, end was corroded and green, same inside too.
Have cleaned end and dirt from around coil.
No sparking now but light gun is still irregular.
Brickwerks are out of stock on green and grey coils but I have got a Grey labeled coil I bought 2nd hand, Busfest 2019.
Is it safe to try this or will it do damage ?
Thanks in Advance

[tobydog]

What is the condition of you're leads?

[SurfT25]

Leads were new last year, off road since October till beginning of this month.
What is the average length of use time for leads ?

[tobydog]

Rotor arm, distributor cap, plugs, carb, air filter, fuel....

[SurfT25]

Thank you for your response tobydog.
Last year, new air filter and flexible tube to carb, changed fuel lines also.
New plugs this month, old ones black that's why doing timing and tuneing carb.
Distributer cap and rotary arm cleaned and polished for good performance.
Am trying to fine tune things but haynes manual doesn't go that far.

[SurfT25]

Just changed coils, it works
Glad it does as the spindle connection in the coil has disintegrated
Hopefully problem solved

Spoke too soon, had to turn back from day journey as oil light is doing morse code
Will try to order new green labled coil tomorrow.

[Aidan]

oil light isn't connected to coil, if engine is running okay then diagnose the likely wiring issue with the oil pressure gauge/light/sender(s)

[Stesaw]

Iffy wiring / loose connection somewhere perhaps.

[Robsey]

There are three prime locations

1 - ribbon in the dash panel.
2 - the sender itself.
3 - loose / dirty / damaged wire or connection between the sender and the junction box.

As said above - totally unrelated to the coil.

For the hyper pedantic...
There is a very distant link in so far as they are both fed by an ignition live supply, but that would need to be a problem at or very close to the ignition switch.
But if the coil is letting the engine run fine and dandy, then we can rule that out.

[SurfT25]

Thank you all for your replies.
About the engine running dandy I am trying to tune it because I felt loss of power, hence found coil problem.
My pulleys V cut and notch are on opposite sides to the Haynes manual. Don't know where to look.

In trying to do this with the dizzy and idle adjust screw with engine running at 900 rpm I have lost my way.
Foolishly forgot to count turns on idle screw, marked dizzy position, moved dizzy, mark didn't move
Bus was going better with the worn coil.
So I've lost my way. Help will be greatly appreciated.

As for flashing oil light forgive me but I meant engine temperature light.
I have found that the connection coming out of the coolant reservoir ( behind dalek cap) is getting wet and has dried coolant around it.
Could this be the problem?
Again thanks in advance.

[Robsey]

Okay - for a DG...

After having a quick Google.

The V mark on your pulley is Top Dead Centre.

Basic Setting - Preparation.
I understand that you want 5° before TDC, therefore you need to put a mark on the pulley approx 6.5mm (1/4") to the right of this.
I presume that is the front mark on your pulley - not the V notch.

You have read all the gubbins about disconnecting the vacuum pipe.
Ensure that the rotor arm is pointing to plug lead No1 position - mark on distributor body.
Disconnect the idle stabilisation unit and plug the connectors together.

Only now can you start the engine...

Then tweak the idle revs to approx 875 / 900 revs and allow the engine to warm fully to 1/2 way on the temp gauge.
Ensure choke has gone off before setting.

Adjusting the timing-

Then adjust the timing so that the right hand mark is illuminated by the timing light when it is inline with the mark on the engine casing.

You mention winding the idle screw in and out to get the position... this is where you are confusing yourself.

Just set the revs to 900 rpm.
You need a tachometer, or a timing light with an rpm dial on it.

Then carefully rotate the distributor body until the right-hand mark lines up.
Then tighten the clamp screw to lock the distributor from turning out of adjustment.

When finished - stop the engine and reconnect the vacuum pipes and idle stabilisation connectors to the unit.

Finally, you will ned to restart the engine and turn down the idle speed again to 875 / 900 rpm.

As for the coolant warning light.
There is plenty to check there..
The level switch in that header tank.
The prongs could be dirty, the connector could be dirty or corroded.
The next most common culpret is the shortage control unit - looks like a relay with 42 or 43 printed on it.

If you have an early torpedo fusebox, the relay like unit is sat up above the earth crowns.
Ifyou have the later CE1 fusebox, it is in relay position 3.

[ajsimmo]

Your pulley is from a DF, with its timing mark at 5° after TDC.
Do you have a dual vac dizzy and a Solex carb? Then likely it was a DF and it's had a DG put in later.
If you have a single vac can, and a Pierburg carb, then check your engine number. You may have a used DF shoved into a DG van.
Otherwise, someone may have just swapped the pulley for an unknown reason.
To set accurate timing I'd recommend using a digital strobe with dialback, set to 5° and use the TDC mark. Sometimes the strobe can be more stable using number 3 plug lead.

Sent from my moto g(30) using Tapatalk

[SurfT25]

Thank you for replies.
Will use information to try and correct problem later.
As for the pulley ajsimmo I bought it 2nd hand as mine was wobbling, that explains why I was lost
I have a dg engine with pierberg carb.
Great information will update results later.
Cheers

[Robsey]

Your pulley is from a DF, with its timing mark at 5° after TDC.

Sent from my moto g(30) using Tapatalk

You had me questioning myself on the pulley type as I could only find two listed on the various supplier websites.
Single groove - 025 105 251
and triple groove - 025 105 257

But I noticed on my single groove pulley I have both the U indentation on the front and the V notch at the rear. Mine has suffix D on the code.
I see in the photo above, there is no U indentation, hence your identification as a DF pulley.

Every day is a school day.


UPDATE -
using basic Robsey maths then,

If the DF mark is 5° after TDC, and you want 5° before tdc...
Hmmm 1/4" or 6.5mm per 5°....
And we mark to the right to advance..

That means you should want 1/2" or 13mm to the right of the V notch.

[SurfT25]

The front paint mark is in the notch, groove not very visible.
Being as I am a novice, where is the idle stabilisation unit ?