Robsey's Rusty Wreck.

[Robsey]

New rollers, circlip, locking pin and guide received.
Frightening how a few piddley bits in a jiffy bag can cost so much.
Anyway - here is everything fitted this lunchtime.

The main middle hinge and runner.
New roller and guide.



The bolt for the new guide was too short and only came with a plain half nut.

And the roller is held in by a pin that needs to be knocked out and back in with a suitable sized pin-punch.

I fitted a longer bolt and a low profile nyloc nut. Even the simplest jobs should be done properly.



A new locking pin for the remote locking unit.





And the bottom runner.

New roller, felt seal and circlip.


That vertical roller is a damn tight fit, so I have no idea why VW think you need a circlip to keep it on.

The roller had to be held in a vice, whilst the location shaft was knocked out with a pin-punch.

The new bearing was pressed back onto the shaft using a deep 8mm double-hex socket.

One more job ticked off from the list.

[Merrsh1]

And the roller is held in by a pin that needs to be knocked out and back in with a suitable sized pin-punch.

Evening

Can you elaborate on how you got this pin out? I spent an hour today and got nowhere.

One end is steel and of a smaller diameter than the other nylon end.

Logically I think I should be striking the metal end but it will not shift...

Any tips please?

[Robsey]

I am sure that I had to remove the "U" shaped pivot bar,
and this will expose the inside-end of the location pin.

I don't recall any nylon plug inside.

[Robsey]

I haven't posted about this for ages - really because funds are low and my friend who has the job sorting the welding has been working on proper paying jobs.
A Capri mk3 and currently a 2007 Jaguar (a mondeo in a dinner jacket).

I do not want to cut too much out, before fresh metal is welded in, otherwise the van will lose strength and I will lose my orientation of how it would all go back together.

So - for what seems like an eternity, I have been doing the faffy jobs such as clearing the "paper-backed fabric wallpaper from the interior of the van.
The added fun is that it had been glued in place with proper brown brush-on evostick.







Oh the joys...
I still have the far rear side panels of the van to do... but we are getting there.





This is by far the least glamorous part of van renovation.
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If you look at some of my electrical posts, you will be aware that I also spent some time converting the glove box to fit the larger CE1 fusebox that will replace the original spaghetti platter that was there before.

Here it is roughly cut out to clear the fusebox



I have since tidied up all the cut edges.

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Also, I have half heartedly stripped the bottom wishbone, front hub and brake calliper on the front left corner.



Just waiting for some matter to blast the parts, before painting and rebuilding again.

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Going back to the body - the nearside rear chassis rail is shot. It looks like a simple 2"x3" box section, so should be quite straight forward to sort...
According to my friend anyway.

[Robsey]

A brief update to this brings us to....

And the prize for the worst fitting part goes to....

Klokkerholm for this lower front corner piece.
It is pretty close to correct at the top, but a whole 5/8" (16mm) too far back at the bottom.





Yikes!!

Troy is confident that he can peel back the fold line and correct this without making a dogs dinner of it.
We shall surely see next week.

We compared this to the original pieces that we cut off last year (corner panel) and in 2013. (Lower front panel) - Yes, I kept all the old parts for templates.

Prior to this, I spent most of the night dressing back last week's welds and painting the front corner with etch primer.







I also rust treated the whole of the front end with Vactan.

[Robsey]

This evening saw the trial fit of the lower front panel.
This is a proper "Heritage" part.
It emphasises how bad the corner piece really is.

Although the corner piece was supplied by JK, it is still the same Klokkerholm part that all the suppliers sell.





And here is the original factory corner piece.
Almost perfect alignment.
Shame about the rust.





I also spent 90% of the evening cleaning the front strengthening bar and the top of the deformation piece that the bumper bolts onto.

After this was all cleaned up, I painted on black weld-through paint where the lower front panel would be welded into place.
The areas that will not be welded were painted with grey etch primer paint.
Quite nice and tidy when cleaned and painted.