My van had this factory connectorised 3-way. One with a plug end (12V feed), one socket end for thermoswitch and one socket end (T’d off) with longer lead to reach solenoid. The thermoswitch is not working the solenoid in this set-up however, the 3-way wiring just gives it 12V. Hopefully picture explains. But other than that, 2,5mm Red feeds carb choke, carb heater & manifold hedgehog.
Runs fine, choke working well, I’ll run it again for a bit longer tomorrow. Keen to see if I still have the 2500rpm dying issue - where all this started!!
When the forum is ready to accept attachments again I'll upload a better resolution version, unless Mocki manages it before me. HIGHER RESOLUTION VESRIONS LOWER DOWN THE THREAD NOW
If I understand correctly from your post, the wiring diagram above is correct for the early WBX. In summary, three feeds controlled by the thermoswitch and the relay, with the bypass air cutoff valve fed from the coil so live whenever the ignition is on.
Last edited by 937carrera on 10 Nov 2019, 18:39, edited 1 time in total.
1981 RHD 2.0 Aircooled Leisuredrive project, CU engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine
Actually it isn’t goi g to matter where the choke feed comes from, the coolant temp will be the same at the thermoswitch as it is at the choke , so both will switch off together .
Mine has a constant feed , from the coil , but mine is not standard either , as it’s a DJ with a Carb , and therefore temp2 switch was swapped for a carb thermoswitch and the loom made up
That's in line with how I've just wired mine up and it works now, the heaters etc are powered from cold and then after 8 minutes or so the thermoswitch cuts the power to them.
My choke was permanently powered before and the van hesitates to the point it almost stalls so I think the carb has been set up with the choke being on at all times !
Also can I just confirm, people refer to the bypass airflap, are you talking about the idle cut off on the carb or is there another valve somewhere ?
Ads1987 wrote:
Also can I just confirm, people refer to the bypass airflap, are you talking about the idle cut off on the carb or is there another valve somewhere ?
Doesn't run we'll just yet but I think it's because they adjusted it all up to work with the choke operating, so now the choke isn't on all the time it hesitates, just need to get it warm and have a fiddle with it all I spose!
The choke wouldn’t have been on all the time because of the wiring , it would have gone off when the coolant reached temp , the biametal spring would react to the coolant temp