2.0 CU Air Cooled Exhaust Studs

[jaybeeonline]

When I bought my van, it was a tad noisy and put it down to a rotten exhaust, but after much investigation, found the right hand heat exchanger to be bust and after removing all related exhaust bits, I am left with a couple of snapped stud stems that my stud extractor won’t work on; therefore, is there an easy way to remove them without pulling out the engine?

Sadly, I don’t have a big ramp, engine hoist or other means other than a decent set of tools and a gravel drive, so will hopefully have to do it upside down under the van!!






Thanks in advance

[937carrera]

I have done a fair bit of stud remnant removal recently. (but not on an air cooled head)

If you can get a drill in, then it is possible. To make life easier, get yourself some cobalt drills. They make a huge difference, start at 3mm and move up, expanding the hole until you can pick out the remnants of the stud or use a tap to clean the original threads up.

I suggest you source the replacement studs first to measure how deep you need to go

Slow and steady does it

Be careful with stud extractors, if you break one in you are in for a heap of misery

[jaybeeonline]

I have done a fair bit of stud remnant removal recently. (but not on an air cooled head)

If you can get a drill in, then it is possible. To make life easier, get yourself some cobalt drills. They make a huge difference, start at 3mm and move up, expanding the hole until you can pick out the remnants of the stud or use a tap to clean the original threads up.

I suggest you source the replacement studs first to measure how deep you need to go

Slow and steady does it

Be careful with stud extractors, if you break one in you are in for a heap of misery

The stud is proud of the head by about 10-15mm and the extractor kit I have connects to a 3/8” drive ratchet but there is just not enough stud to engage the teeth to grip and there is not enough space to get a set of mole grips or similar in.


This is the kit I was using; https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car- ... 7IQAvD_BwE" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and this; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Irwin-7-Piec ... 2749.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


J.

[937carrera]

That's why I suggested drilling, it generally works even if it is slower.

The stud extractors I was thinking about were the classic "reverse drill" type, as you haven't got any you won't have that problem

[Pinkythelabrat]

Could you maybe use a chisel to turn it? Or cut a slot and use a flat bit on a mini ratchet?

I have no idea what you’re seeing so can’t really give good advice - just guessing here.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[jaybeeonline]

I finally got the engine out yesterday, with me swearing, huffing & puffing and the photo below shows the issue I have.

The stud is there, but because of the shape of the area around the exhaust port, my stud extractor is too wide and fouling as per the witness marks on the head




J.

[937carrera]

It's a CU engine...... if it's the same as the 412 type 4 engine the pushrod tubes can be removed without removing the head (not possible with WBX). Look into that.

......and try a drill

[bigherb]

If you have a welder? Weld a nut onto the remaining stud hopefully the heat will also break the bond with the stud in the head.

[sarran1955]

Hello,

A good clean would do no harm..

When you remove the pushrod tubes, make sure the 'wongly' spring is there to hold the pushrods in place.
You will of course be fitting new black and green pushrod oil seals

Air-Cooled Bliss..

Cordialement,

[jaybeeonline]

Hello,

A good clean would do no harm..

When you remove the pushrod tubes, make sure the 'wongly' spring is there to hold the pushrods in place.
You will of course be fitting new black and green pushrod oil seals

Air-Cooled Bliss..

Cordialement,

I can’t be blamed for the very manky and oily engine, I have only driven it a couple of miles since I bought it

The engine will be fully cleaned and degreased, new seals fitted where needed, then new tinware will be fitted after powder coating once I find the bits that I am missing due to corrosion. Refurbished carbs will be added and lastly the NOS VW heat exchangers I sourced will be added before bolting it back into the cleaned engine bay - it sounds so simple saying in comparison to actually doing it!

Then it’s onto the brakes and then replace the sill opposite the sliding door, as it is a bit threadbare.


Oh, why did I bother buying the bloody van


J.