New wheel bearings

[itchyfeet]

My front wheel bearings have some play when rocked in the vertical plane that I can't feel in the horizontal, the brake shoes seem to rub a little and the wheels are getting hotter than my tin top.

This van had new disks with the previous owner and I changed the calipers about a year ago because they were crusty and one was binding.

So I think the bearings are suspect, I wonder if the garage that fitted the discs re used the old bearings ( they are quality brands I think, NSK and Koyo)

One thing I noticed is that one of the hub grease caps has been rudely chisled off damaging the new disc and the nut re peened so anybody who can do that is not to be trusted.

some of the bearings also look like they are tarnished maybe heat damage.

In addition the front wheel bolts would not come off easily so I think the heat may be responsible.




time for some new splash guards, I have had these ages just not got around to it.


punched the old bearing shells out tonight.



turned down some metal in the lathe at work so it can be used to push the new shells in, on the tin top I did it with a pin punch but it's hard and risks scratching the shell if you slip.




I noted that one of the pins in each carrier is loose, I guess to allow for tolerances in the brake caliper?
I got the wrong pin in the wrong side first time and it was such a snug fit it would not go in with grease, I noted the other was very loose, so swapped them and one is now quite snug the other has some play, same both sides so I guess by design.
I don't know if I got this wrong before as I didn't notice it and wonder if maybe it could contribute to disks rubbing ?


Bearings should arrive from Brickwerks tomorrow.

[colinthefox]

If you have play at12/6 o'clock but not at 3/9 o'clock suspect wear in the small journal of the stub axle. One of the consequences of this play is that some mechanics mistakenly tend to overtighten the nut to eliminate it. Even new bearings will then overheat, but the play will soon return. I had a series of high mileage Vol-vos which had this problem, and I used to Loctite the outer bearing on the stub axle, not always successfully long term, but it got them through MOTs.

I understand that it is OK to reuse the nuts by swapping sides, when the peen will be in a different part of the nut. It does look like that may have happened with yours.

[tobydog]

Sounds like a job for the Penetron (don't laugh), I remenber using it to build up metal faces as apprentice, it's like sparking in reverse. A very good friend still has one......

Used it to fix a Laverda 750S camshaft, should have bought it off my mate who owned it

http://mail.penetron.ch/en/description/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[itchyfeet]

If you have play at12/6 o'clock but not at 3/9 o'clock suspect wear in the small journal of the stub axle. One of the consequences of this play is that some mechanics mistakenly tend to overtighten the nut to eliminate it. Even new bearings will then overheat, but the play will soon return. I had a series of high mileage Vol-vos which had this problem, and I used to Loctite the outer bearing on the stub axle, not always successfully long term, but it got them through MOTs.

I understand that it is OK to reuse the nuts by swapping sides, when the peen will be in a different part of the nut. It does look like that may have happened with yours.

thanks, this is not a high mileage van , <120K but I will measure and see if there is play

I'm not 100% sure it is the bearings, maybe the play was in the suspension, it's hard to be sure, they spun OK but having taken them out they feel a little rough.

It seemed to me that the brake shoes were rubbing slightly which I thought would happen with worn bearings so for peace of mind I will fit new.

Only one nut was double peened and looking at the distance it was significantly changed.

I wonder if the mechanic just over tightened the bearings?

Anybody have a good suggestion for getting the setting right on reassembly, I have read before thrush washer should just be movable when pushed?

[937carrera]

The moving the washer is the right method. I also combine that with how freely the wheel spins, when it's too tight it will not spin as freely.

Make sure the caliper pistons are free to retract cleanly. A "wobbly" / warped disk should knock the pads back, which means increased brake pedal travel, rather than excess heat. (and of course you know there are no shoes on the front of a T25 )

Are you going with FAG / NSK ?

[itchyfeet]

Are you going with FAG / NSK ?

You won't usually hear me saying I'm going with a FAG but that's what Brickwerks sent me as 'OEM'

I was wondering about those caliper sliding bolts and if that could have been the cause but the bearing's just don't look and feel new and the disks were done quite recently so I'm going for new for peace of mind.

I can't afford one to go on me while in France later in the year.

[Aidan]

those discs look pretty lipped Paul, did you measure them ?

[itchyfeet]

those discs look pretty lipped Paul, did you measure them ?

it's just the photo Aidan, they are in great condition, probably not got more than a few 000 miles on them, replaced soon before I had the van

Here is a better one...

[bigbadbob76]

Those splash guards look good Paul. Did the old guard screws put up a fight?
My guards are long gone and the screws look like they're not going to come out in a hurry.

I must make one of those tools for pressing the bearings in too, good call.

[itchyfeet]

screws looked very rusty but I used a electric impact gun and they came straight out. screws still had plating on threadsso it's just the heads that were rusty. You may not be so lucky. I probably depends if the screwdriver bit can grip or if it rounds out but there are always mole grips.
worst case dril out and retap

[bigbadbob76]

Cheers Paul.
I'll give it a go at some point.

[itchyfeet]

I must make one of those tools for pressing the bearings in too, good call.

welded a plate on the top so it can be hit centrally


easy peasy





fitted shake proof washers to spalsh guards, don't want those coming loose.

[937carrera]

That looks far too shiny - stainless ?

I assume you can feel a difference in the bearings when you spin the wheels ?

[itchyfeet]

That looks far too shiny - stainless ?

I assume you can feel a difference in the bearings when you spin the wheels ?

yes stainless plattes from Brickwerks

not put discs on yet later today

[itchyfeet]

cleaned out hub with brake cleaner, packed bearing with grease and fitted


fitted oil seal


clean stub with brake cleaner


disc/hub on with thrust washer and nut ( no brake calipers yet)
I can now feel the same play horizontally and vertically so I think I was right to replace bearings, tightened until I can just move thrush washer with a screwdriver.
There is still a tiny bit of play left but I have read there should be a tiny bit and best not to over tighten, sound right??