Procrastinating never got anyone anywhere

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adie89
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Procrastinating never got anyone anywhere

Post by adie89 »

SWMBO idea for the title.

Well it’s finally time to post my work and get on with the sliding door side on Greta. I’ve already done the opposite side and I’ll post those pictures/work once complete on this side for the sake of continuity.
So Greta failed MOT for a hole in the inner sill due to being within the limit of the trailing arm mount, what they missed was that the sill is basically now ‘pi$$ thin’. Most of it was removed with a knotted brush and a masonry chisel.
Image
A previous bodge of filler
Image
A poorly welded outer sill
Image
A severely holed sliding door channel

Well after much cutting and grinding the floor is sandwiched between the door channel plate and the outer sill, well it was, mine is just dust. So contrary to advice I will have to cut out the the step/sliding channel cover so that I can add in a strip to repair the floor before replacing the sill.
Image
a lot of rust
Image
A lot of rust and muck in the sill
Last edited by adie89 on 15 Aug 2018, 07:56, edited 1 time in total.
Greta: 85’ LHD 2.5L Subaru 14in Syncro
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=165773

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Titus A Duxass
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Re: Procrastinating never got anyone anywhere

Post by Titus A Duxass »

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image
VW T3 GTi Camper 2,0l ADY Old Timer
VW T3 GTi Großsraum Pritsche 2,0l AGG Old Timer

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Titus A Duxass
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Re: Procrastinating never got anyone anywhere

Post by Titus A Duxass »

Adie,
You need to grab the BB code from Flickr, click on the right pointing arrow that is in the bottom right under the photo.

You'll end up with this, I've changed the endings so that you can see the text, I replaced [ and ) with ( and ),

(url=https://flic.kr/p/LiJ3DB][img]https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1792/290 ... img][/url)(url=https://flic.kr/p/LiJ3DB]Untitled(/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/22734691@N03/]ad892000[/url), on Flickr

Then delete it back to

(url=https://flic.kr/p/LiJ3DB](img]https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1792/290 ... dfcc_z.jpg[/img][/url)
VW T3 GTi Camper 2,0l ADY Old Timer
VW T3 GTi Großsraum Pritsche 2,0l AGG Old Timer

adie89
Posts: 292
Joined: 04 Sep 2012, 21:25
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Location: Wiltshire

Re: Procrastinating never got anyone anywhere

Post by adie89 »

Titus A Duxass wrote:Adie,
You need to grab the BB code from Flickr, click on the right pointing arrow that is in the bottom right under the photo.

You'll end up with this, I've changed the endings so that you can see the text, I replaced [ and ) with ( and ),

(url=https://flic.kr/p/LiJ3DB][img]https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1792/290 ... img][/url)(url=https://flic.kr/p/LiJ3DB]Untitled(/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/22734691@N03/]ad892000[/url), on Flickr

Then delete it back to

(url=https://flic.kr/p/LiJ3DB](img]https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1792/290 ... dfcc_z.jpg[/img][/url)


Titus,

That’s perfect thanks for the help, quite a few people have tried to help me do that and I just didn’t seem to get it right. Plus I have a new iPad so it drags and drops, Before it wouldn’t let me copy the B.B. code, now I know!
Greta: 85’ LHD 2.5L Subaru 14in Syncro
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=165773

RogerT
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Re: Procrastinating never got anyone anywhere

Post by RogerT »

adie89 wrote:Procrastinating never got anyone anywhere

I take offence at that!
'88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

RogerT
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Joined: 10 May 2013, 11:59
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Re: Procrastinating never got anyone anywhere

Post by RogerT »

Go on, stick a hammer into that bodge of filler and let us see what nasties it is hiding! Looking forward to someone else joining this page, as long as you don’t show us up like Jackrobbo did by speeding ahead without the proper amount of time humming and hawing...
'88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

adie89
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Re: Procrastinating never got anyone anywhere

Post by adie89 »

RogerT wrote:Go on, stick a hammer into that bodge of filler and let us see what nasties it is hiding! Looking forward to someone else joining this page, as long as you don’t show us up like Jackrobbo did by speeding ahead without the proper amount of time humming and hawing...

But it has been nearly twelve months since I did the other side
Greta: 85’ LHD 2.5L Subaru 14in Syncro
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=165773

adie89
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Joined: 04 Sep 2012, 21:25
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Re: Procrastinating never got anyone anywhere

Post by adie89 »

So today has... progressed. I finally got the trailing arm off, I had to use a hacksaw blade as my cutting discs just weren’t big enough for the last mount furthest inboard. Not in too bad nick just the predictable buggered spring seat.
Image
The bodge revealed a poorly welded inner skin, which revealed what was left of the inner skin and inner sill
Image

This is way worse than the other side was, basically the only strength left was in the sliding door roller guide.

Because I’m removing so much from this side and need to take the c pillar out to above the door channel I’ve decided to brace the c pillar to prevent spreading that others have mentioned.
Image
When looking from underneath the floor is missing around 2.5-3cm which will be much easier to repair once the sliding channel is out which has a repair panel ready and some work is needed on the cover plate too
Image
The plan is to repair the inner skin on the c pillar then the c pillar to keep a reference point. I will the patch he rear chassis rail ready for the inner sill. I will also have to make the filler plate between the floor and c pillar that closes the top of the inner sill as it is terminals rusty even if it’s still strong.
Once the roller channel is out this will give me access to the b pillar to renew the bottom 10cm or so. I made a b pillar for the other side and it was a PITA and took me days, so I bought the whole pillar. To me it was worth the money for my time.
Spot welds out and front seams welds cut through in the cover plate. I reckon this will be much to repair on a jig on the bench rather than upside down under the bus.
Image
I have the inner sill from schofields which just needs the drain holes cutting out and plug holes so I can waxoyl, inspect later. I have a genuine c pillar inner panel. I need to male the c pillar but this is a straightforward shape. I have the outer skin for the c pillar now too. I need to patch the rear chassis rail.
The spring seat is on order from BW.
I have the door roller channel repair panel, I have steel to patch the top plate and steel to patch the floor.
I have the full b pillar inner and the repair skin outer, but I again have to patch the front chassis rail.

While I’m at it all my paint products are ready:
Etch rattle can primer
Glasurit CV Epoxy primer
Glasurit CV colour coat
Kent chip guard (this stuff is amazing, the gun gives a reall factory look and it’s overpaintable really quickly)
3M Unterbodenschutz for last.

And as Norm Abraham says safety first, I can’t talk highly enough about the 3M versaflo range, at 180 it wasn’t cheap but a full face mask with airline fed air system with ear protection it’s already saved my face and eyes way better than just glasses, it’s comfortable enough to wear all day. I’ll get a pic tomorrow.
Greta: 85’ LHD 2.5L Subaru 14in Syncro
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=165773

mshaw1980
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Re: Procrastinating never got anyone anywhere

Post by mshaw1980 »

[quote="adie89"]So today has... progressed. I finally got the trailing arm off, I had to use a hacksaw blade as my cutting discs just weren’t big enough for the last mount furthest inboard. Not in too bad nick just the predictable buggered spring seat.
Image
The bodge revealed a poorly welded inner skin, which revealed what was left of the inner skin and inner sill
Image

This is way worse than the other side was, basically the only strength left was in the sliding door roller guide.

Because I’m removing so much from this side and need to take the c pillar out to above the door channel I’ve decided to brace the c pillar to prevent spreading that others have mentioned.
Image
When looking from underneath the floor is missing around 2.5-3cm which will be much easier to repair once the sliding channel is out which has a repair panel ready and some work is needed on the cover plate too
Image
The plan is to repair the inner skin on the c pillar then the c pillar to keep a reference point. I will the patch he rear chassis rail ready for the inner sill. I will also have to make the filler plate between the floor and c pillar that closes the top of the inner sill as it is terminals rusty even if it’s still strong.
Once the roller channel is out this will give me access to the b pillar to renew the bottom 10cm or so. I made a b pillar for the other side and it was a PITA and took me days, so I bought the whole pillar. To me it was worth the money for my time.
Spot welds out and front seams welds cut through in the cover plate. I reckon this will be much to repair on a jig on the bench rather than upside down under the bus.
Image
I have the inner sill from schofields which just needs the drain holes cutting out and plug holes so I can waxoyl, inspect later. I have a genuine c pillar inner panel. I need to male the c pillar but this is a straightforward shape. I have the outer skin for the c pillar now too. I need to patch the rear chassis rail.
The spring seat is on order from BW.
I have the door roller channel repair panel, I have steel to patch the top plate and steel to patch the floor.
I have the full b pillar inner and the repair skin outer, but I again have to patch the front chassis rail.



That rear swingarm mount looks all too familiar. Some pictures in My T25 Restoration thread may help although you seem to know what you're doing.

Great idea bracing the c pillars as mine did spread when I cut away the inner sill and floor. Ratchet strap only just managed to pull it back for me to reweld.
Last edited by mshaw1980 on 15 Aug 2018, 23:03, edited 1 time in total.
1987 VW T25: Subaru EJ20 using RJES parts (If it was meant to go fast it wouldn't be brick shaped!)

RogerT
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Re: Procrastinating never got anyone anywhere

Post by RogerT »

Thanks for showing that! Hope your outer swing arm mount is still attached to the rear cross member... Mine was letting go and slowly working its way up into the body. As for the C, I agree with mshaw, I'm hoping a ratchet straps works for me.
'88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

adie89
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Joined: 04 Sep 2012, 21:25
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Location: Wiltshire

Re: Procrastinating never got anyone anywhere

Post by adie89 »

Mr Shaw, yeah I’d looked through your excellent thread, that’s where I’d seen about strapping it back together so thanks again for your thread for the inspiration to brace. Particularly as MetalMicky had said specifically not to remove the top cover and door roller channel, I’m unfortunately forced to do just that.

As for the swing arm mount, it’s still very firmly attached by the vertical welds to the chassis rail. It was the inner sill that had dissolved and begun to eat through the top of the mount as well.
Greta: 85’ LHD 2.5L Subaru 14in Syncro
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=165773

adie89
Posts: 292
Joined: 04 Sep 2012, 21:25
80-90 Mem No: 11532
Location: Wiltshire

Re: Procrastinating never got anyone anywhere

Post by adie89 »

So I had less time yesterday but still made progress. After drilling the remaining spotwelds for the roller channel it literally popped out.
Image
Sorry I forgot to take a pic of the channel once out. I deliberately drilled through the welds from the rear and underneath because that panel is being replaced with a genuine one.
I then cleaned out the seam sealer on the filler panel inside Greta above the swing arm mount...
Image
So I will leave that attached to the inner panel when I remove it instead of buggering about, there are just two spot welds and two plug welds holding it to the floor and the seam weld at the back has rotted through. I’ll then be able to repair the rear bulkhead and chassis rail.
Interestingly the small oval panel isn’t permanently fixed it appears it is placed in then seam sealered over at the factory, probably to allow inspection of the top of the jacking point maybe?
And as promised my 3M M100 mask and ear protectors which I bought genuine and new, I’ve had, and seen, too many close calls at work and in the garage to justify cheap or shanny PPE . The small blue box is the airline regulator for the fresh air feed which was second hand on fleabay. I have a Jupiter battery module too for when no air is available but these are only second hand now, replaced by the versaflo system. I was given mine with a second hand welding mask with hood and fresh air system years ago.
Image

adie89
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Joined: 04 Sep 2012, 21:25
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Location: Wiltshire

Re: Procrastinating never got anyone anywhere

Post by adie89 »

So today is basically a rant at a poo day.
Image
This is what was revealed after I removed the filler plate above the jacking point, so I was now ready to start putting metal back in.
I was now ready to test fit the new sill. It was a repair panel that was a reproduction of sorts, except it didn’t fit... at all. It was too short lengthwise, too short height wise and about as straight as paper aeroplane in a fat kids pocket. So I’ve ordered another repro part from BW, I generally get on better with their kit.
But it’s ok I can start repairing the panels that are going back in and begin patching, except my welder which is about third hand and eleventy years old which I tested two days ago on a new 25 Euro disposable argon bottle, has decided to pack up. Also said argon bottle has reminded me why one of my mates used to cuss them... because once the seal is broken, no matter, what they will empty. So now I’ve wasted 25 Euro on gas and 20 Euro on the smaller regulator which I’d lost and had to replace, and now I’ve had to buy a new welder for 250 and the gas shop closed at 12 so I have to wait until Monday for gas which will set me back 150 for a stubby 20L bottle which is actually a bargain over here.
So I cut my losses and went home to put up a new strip light in the cellar and change the power cord on my grinder, except I forgot to bring my electrical tool box home with my drill which I did remember , so couldn’t do those jobs either.
To sum up...FFS
Greta: 85’ LHD 2.5L Subaru 14in Syncro
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=165773

RogerT
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Re: Procrastinating never got anyone anywhere

Post by RogerT »

Test fitted my inner sill today, got it from schofields, and fitted well. BW looks much the same so good luck. A big day of sweet FA...
'88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

RogerT
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Joined: 10 May 2013, 11:59
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Location: Central Scotland

Re: Procrastinating never got anyone anywhere

Post by RogerT »

Poops, just read yours was a schofields inner sill.

Mine could be too short vertically but I have no jacking point st the back so it doesn’t matter!lenthways, the end of my rear crossmember isn’t there either so I have to make it all up as I go along.

I’ll sticc some photos on my thread
'88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

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