Not a restoration.

Post by **bigbadbob76** » 18 Jul 2018, 14:53

Just twiddling my thumbs at work today and reading Paul's WBX log, so I grabbed the thermocouple, poked it down the dipstick tube, and did an oil pressure check.
I had to pull and push the thermocouple a bit to find the highest reading.

2.5 bar @ 2k RPM @ 80*C
Total Quartz 5000 15W40 mineral oil. approx 1000 miles since it was changed/engine refreshed.
New 26mm Schadek pump (with no O-ring or sealant) fitted at the same time.

so within spec but "could do better" as it said on my school report.
It ties in with Paul's readings before he started pump mods and thicker oil.

I'll o-ring my pump cover and sealant the studs/nuts this weekend to stop my oil leak and will try 15W50 oil before I consider putting an O ring round the pump body, the O ring didn't seem to make much difference to Paul's.

P.S. I got a call from my MOT man today, he wanted me to take a look at the controller cable on his brake tester as it had been intermittent and then died.
A wee bit of soldering and a continuity test and it was up and running again.

always good to have your MOT man owe you.

Post by **bigbadbob76** » 19 Jul 2018, 11:13

937carrera wrote:Commenting here on your compression test results:

As you said in the other post, you have new rings. They will still need to bed in so I expect compression will get better as they do that.

At least you have a baseline now.

Another compression test after 1000 miles run in showed all at 125 psi on the gauge......
But... a gauge check against a calibrated one shows 125psi indicated is really more like 140psi true.
So not as bad as I thought and I'll keep an eye on it.

Post by **bigbadbob76** » 20 Jul 2018, 23:01

I lowered the engine tonight. Pulled off the silencer, engine mounting brackets etc and removed the oil pump cover to re-seal it.

The groove i used for my o ring testing is narrower on the schadek pump

but the o ring perched in it ok so i sealed the stud threads with dirko ht, smeared curil t round the studs on the pump face, fitted the o ring, screwed down the cover so it's flush and sealed the nuts with ht.
turning it over on the starter to prime the pump and build some pressure showed no pressure on the gauge but i stupidly ignored that and checked for leaks, no oil coming out anywhere so i put it all back together, topped up the fluids and started it up.
Bugger!!! Low oil pressure. 1 bar at cold idle rising to 2 bar at 2k rpm. Still cold.
I'm swearing at it now. Re-sealing the cover was supposed to help the oil pressure not screw it up. I can only think the o ring is raising the endfloat on the pump gears.

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Post by **itchyfeet** » 21 Jul 2018, 07:19

Its easier the more you do it

Should have checked diameter, could be that also, my measurements in the post link below Schadek was the worst.

I thought you were maching a groove for the front oring, If not the I'd not use an oring.

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 5#p8214547" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Post by **937carrera** » 21 Jul 2018, 07:27

Knowing what doesn't work is sometimes almost as useful as knowing what does, frustrating when you do it though.

What next, source a smaller o-ring for the Schadek pump, or simply reassemble

Post by **bigbadbob76** » 21 Jul 2018, 09:39

Having tested with the old pump and o ring in the existing groove i was just going with it as is. But with the thinner groove on the new pump it didn't work as planned. I think the way ahead is to forget the o ring. It doesn't seal around the studs so i need curil anyway.
If i was going to machine a groove i'd machine small ring grooves round the studs too.
I have pump diameter measurments on this thread somewhere. Must be a fair few pages back. Haha.

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Post by **bigbadbob76** » 21 Jul 2018, 22:13

Job done this afternoon. Took me 3 hrs this time from start to finish. It does get easier each time. Haha.
Took the o ring out and re-sealed with curil and dirko.
Oil pressure back up to 4 bar cold idle and no leaks yet. Will take it out to get it hot tomorrow.

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Post by **bigbadbob76** » 22 Jul 2018, 18:14

Took it for a 30 minute run today. Pressure's back to what it was before I put the o-ring in but the oil leak is back too.
Not serious, just a drip but it's annoying.
Hard to be certain it's the pump, it could be migrating from somewhere else but does look like it's the pump.

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Post by **bigbadbob76** » 25 Jul 2018, 14:15

from reading other posts on here I'm tempted to fit an 80*C thermostat, this should help cool the oil and increase pressure.
That combined with 15w50 oil should do the trick.
Time and experimentation will tell.

Post by **itchyfeet** » 25 Jul 2018, 16:31

Possible too cold in Winter though

Post by **bigbadbob76** » 25 Jul 2018, 19:55

good point, the van might become my daily very soon so it'll need to be ok in winter as well as camping season.

Post by **bigbadbob76** » 26 Jul 2018, 11:11

How about a winter radiator baffle?

Post by **itchyfeet** » 26 Jul 2018, 11:41

bigbadbob76 wrote:How about a winter radiator baffle?

try it.

Post by **bigbadbob76** » 28 Jul 2018, 15:25

I've been thinking about my oil pressure and temperature indicators and have decided to risk the wrath of Paul and open a can of worms.

firstly-
1-my high pressure DOPS pressure switch port has been blanked off, presumably due to a stripped thread, I can't get the blank out.
I'd like to re-instate it.
2-I'd also like an indication of oil temperature. I might even add an over temp LED to the dash.
3-I want to keep my oil filler tube so I can top up the oil on a trip away without pulling all the bedding out of the van or evicting the wife and dog to make space for it.

This does not have to display accurate temperatures, just a reference so I know when all is not normal.
If a true sump oil temperature of 115*C reads 120 on the gauge, so what, I'm not after laboratory figures.
If my oil temp rises dramatically above what it normaly reads for the driving I'm doing at the time and the pressure drops with the rising temp, I know I have an overheating problem.
If my oil pressure drops but the temparature stays normal or drops, I know I've got an oil level problem. (like it's all fallen out of the engine).

So I'm going to start with a cheapo temp gauge and an oil filter sandwich plate to fit the temp sender and a 1.4bar DOPS hi switch in.
I'm happy with 1.4 because 1.8 is a bit too prone to spurious triggering in an old (refreshed not re-built) engine and 0.9 seems like by the time you get that low, especially that close to the pump, it's a bit late.
Yes, I know I'll have lag due to heatsinking and inaccuracy and it won't be where VW specs say it should be, (well they don't actually say but sump is a safe assumption). But it's an indication.
If I suspect a problem and want to accurately measure oil temperature and/or pressure I'll stick a thermocouple down the dipstick hole, read my mechanical pressure gauge and get far more accurate readings than any sender/gauge combination will give me.

Post by **itchyfeet** » 28 Jul 2018, 16:32

my DJ doesn't need topping up in a 1000miles

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