For documenting and technical details of T25 restorations and major repairs This section is for major restorations only.where to buy a panel or where to buy window rubbers belong in the bodywork seats and glass section.
Also please note,we need pictures of the restorations,without them posts are pretty useless.[\b]
Picture heavy and detailed threads , not for general banter or advertising
Traders welcome to post but not to advertise blatently
Threads will be cleaned of chit chat.
937carrera wrote:Looks like an early start this morning.
Normal start for me, the timestamp on the forum posts is a few hours out I think.
itchyfeet wrote:is it me or are the clips missing of the pipe benind pulley?
Yes, they're "in the post" although the old ones are usable if it comes down to that, the way the random postal service or random dispatch speed of some companies is at the moment.
'86 1.9 DG, 4 spd, tintop, camper conversion.
Split case club member.
I dug an oil pressure sender out from under the bench and knocked up an adapter at work.
Now if I can just find the gauge that goes with it..... I've got it somewhere.
Exhausts on-
'86 1.9 DG, 4 spd, tintop, camper conversion.
Split case club member.
You may be right there Paul, I can always move it. (maybe mount it on the bulkhead.)
The AN-4 union means I can temporarily connect to my manual gauge too for confirmation of oil pressure.
I already have a digital tacho on the bulkhead so I can measure revs from the engine bay while watching the manual gauge.
'86 1.9 DG, 4 spd, tintop, camper conversion.
Split case club member.
I had a look at the engine bay and wish I hadn't. But I did notice I need a new bleed ring. Mine has several holes and is presumably blocked as I've not had any coolant coming out of it.
I really should be doing some welding in here and replacing the bulkhead but that will have to wait. A dose of Vactan and a coat of paint will have to do for now.
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'86 1.9 DG, 4 spd, tintop, camper conversion.
Split case club member.
Aye, I'd better not restore too much.
A quick googling sugests I should be making my own bleed ring with hose and Tee pieces rather than trying to buy one.
Any suggestions welcome.
It won't stop me putting the engine in but will delay the first start-up.
Yep, nervous in case I've screwed up somewhere along the way. If all goes well I'll be seriuosly happy.
'86 1.9 DG, 4 spd, tintop, camper conversion.
Split case club member.
So long as the engine turns over smoothly I'm sure you'll be fine.
If you get a moment, and you haven't thrown it out yet could you measure the OD of your number 1 main bearing / bearing & thrust washers. I would like to compare to what I have as part of trying to understand why my endfloat was so bad on WBX-Unknown... and how I'm going to fix it.
Thanks
1981 RHD 2.0 Aircooled Leisuredrive project, CU engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine
Not sure which bearing is which and if this is what you need but let me know if you need different measurements.
My endfloat was 0.35mm because some bodger had missed out the 81mm diameter, 0.4mm thick shim.
Thanks for the heads up on the plastic bleed rail Paul. I'll put up a wanted post and if that doesn't bear fruit i'll make one with 8mm copper pipe and brass T pieces.
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'86 1.9 DG, 4 spd, tintop, camper conversion.
Split case club member.
I was looking at endfloat correction, so its the width (axial) of the thrust bearing, the big one, nearest the flywheel, and as yours is a 3 piece bearing the thickness of the thrust washers, combined it'll be about 25mm I think.
In reading your earlier endfloat comments I picked up on the potential damage caused to your pulley by placing the weight of the engine on it. Before you chuck the engine back in did you do anything to check / fix that, just a thought ?
1981 RHD 2.0 Aircooled Leisuredrive project, CU engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine