Rustoration

[RogerT]

Back to it, mini MOT’d
Exposing the seam on the C pillar.
Drilling the spot welds - lower one is all the way through, shown by the visible rust. Upper not quite there.

Wallpaper scraper to check it’s free.

Removed, showing the whole joint is rusty.

Got to go further..., another night.


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[mshaw1980]

Just a little warning for you. On your last picture of the bottom of the c post I notice you have cut the floor away. I did this when I replaced the inner sill and the bottom of the c post moved outward by about 8mm. If you then try and fit the inner sill you will find that at the front of the van it won't meet the front outrigger in the correct place. I had to use a ratchet strap underneath the van, through the sliding door and then attach it to the c post to pull it back in the correct position before welding the floor closed as it was too stiff to push back without. I will find the pic I took later as it may be hard to picture what I am talking about

[RogerT]

Thanks, I saw the c post move, but as it stands the c post needs to be rebuilt at the bottom as it wasn’t touching the sill at all. I’ve got the end of the rear crossmember and the edge of the floor to align to, and I’ve yet to clean up at the front...

[RogerT]

Carried on cutting at the front of the sill, going carefully to learn how it fits together.
In the centre of the image is the front JP reinforcement, bent back prior to removal. Well, what’s left of it anyway...


This shows the flange on the end of the outrigger that the sill is spotted to.

And the spot welds on the inside.

At the end of the sill, the sill has flanges located on the inner face of the outrigger.
The sill here is lined up with the edge of the floor, as it is all the way along. The edge of the floor is rusty, so yesterday I cut a strip of metal to use to replace that, before replacing the sill. Also been making a thingy to put the required bend in the edge of the floor section, so it’s sitting at the right height.
We’ll see if it works...


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[937carrera]

They do get grotty don't they.

Don't forget about the snap I took of the new outrigger & sill assembly. Upside down I know, but it may help



You seem to be much better at recognising spot welds than me, I'm trying to understand the function of two welds you highlighted


Update, think I worked it out, are they where the tab is on the right hand side of the picture ?

[RogerT]

Aye.

Time for bed for me... I’m going to end up cutting off the end of the outrigger I think, but that’s for another night.

[RogerT]

Finished removing the inner sill, so I can see how it fits.



I cut the end of the outrigger down the black line, just to make access easier for nibbling away at the sill.


The front-most face of the outrigger seems to have a double skin. That’s a bit suss. I guess it has rotted away and had a plate slapped on it. Investigation required, and I’ll remedy before putting the sill back on. However I’m pleased to have left the end of the outrigger that locates the sill intact, reduces the guesswork.


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[937carrera]

Yep, my outrigger had rusted through and been plated over on the front face. The replacement is only one single layer.

If you are going to replace the outrigger, don't forget the chassis number is stamped there - to the extent it hasn't been eaten by the rust bug.

[RogerT]

Most of it is ok, I’ll likely just replace sections. Must look for the number though, thanks for reminding me.

[RogerT]

To have a look at the front of the outrigger I needed to jack up the front and remove the front wheel. But first, something more pressing in terms of health and safety - a head protector, fed up with wearing a woolly hat in this weather...


Then clean the floor, measure the gutter height front and back, and jack up the front appropriately. Gutter height now even all round (which is a necessary basis for planning how to get my rear JP in the right place).

Here’s that patch on the front outrigger...


Forgot to check the chassis number...


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[937carrera]

Almost exactly the same patch that mine had, might have been done by the same fella

[RogerT]

Tonight I was making up a strip to replace the edge of the floor that the sill will be fixed to.

Starting to form the return edge of the lip...


Works not too badly...

(The eagle eyed among you will notice that is a different bench, not enough room on the first one so I had to move the vice)

Starting to form the lower edge of the lip

That’s an old masonry bolster, that has seen sterling service as a ... masonry bolster, before being sharpened recently to help split seams, now filed blunt to do this job.

And it produces a wiggly edge


which I remedy thus


and get this profile


Ending up with this


and it will replace this , then get trimmed to size once in place.


I spent hours last night reading this thread, which I just chanced upon when looking to see if it was possible to sharpen a cobalt spot weld drill.
http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/70135/panels" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;




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[937carrera]

I spent hours last night reading this thread, which I just chanced upon when looking to see if it was possible to sharpen a cobalt spot weld drill.
http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/70135/panels" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

That is a great thread, tips on really useful approaches there, thanks

So, can you sharpen a cobalt spot weld drill -?

[RogerT]

Suggests a bench grinder. I’ve nothing to lose. But not tonight, my 20yr old just got offered an apprenticeship in IT, which as he is Autistic, is big news for us!

[937carrera]

I have a bench grinder so good to know - I lost the point on one and bought another two bits to hopefully see me through my resto.

Good news for your son, congrats & have a little celebration