Electric Fuel Pump Noise? (DG)

Post by **richlaz** » 20 Jun 2017, 16:08

Hi all,

My van (1.9DG) has recently had an electric fuel pump fitted by my local garage... (my old original one was very weak, and wouldn't draw up the fuel if the vehicle is left standing for more than a couple of days).

Not sure what model pump it is. The feed cable connects straight to the coil so is live when the ignition is on (pics below - orange/red cable with blue crimp).

My question is... Is it normal to make a loud (and I mean quite loud!) constant clicking noise as soon as the ignition is switched on? Once the engine has started, and the engine has idled for a few seconds, the noise generally disappears and the van runs fine. (I've taken a video on my phone of starting the van, with the fuel pump noise in the background - link below)

Many thanks

E D I T: Managed to upload the video of van starting, with noise in background... https://youtu.be/mrBEhyWtxQM" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Post by **kevtherev** » 20 Jun 2017, 19:08

I do not know about the pump clicks
But whoever fitted that there with those clips?

Post by **DoubleOSeven** » 20 Jun 2017, 19:50

Not sure where to start...trying to remain positive.

1. If the fuel pump diaphragm was weak, just replace the mechanical fuel pump. Like for like, two gaskets and two nuts.
2, it's not uncommon for these mechanical fuel pumps to struggle to pull fuel up, after standing a while so an inline one way valve would fix that, fitted on the fuel line coming out of the bulk head. That would eliminate the issue too.
3, the jubilee clips needs to come off your fuel lines. Look how much pressure that fuel pipe is under. Fuel pipe clips should offer an even pressure all around the pipe, jubilee clips just pinch
4, it may be it was struggling because you don't have enough cold cranking amps on your battery, 600 minimum (from memory)

Me. I'd whip that off and put it back as vw intended. A replacement fuel pump or even put the old one back on with one way valve if you really think pulling the fuel up is the issue. Check the battery too though.

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... -12mm.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... -carb.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... l-wbx.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Post by **Oldiebut goodie** » 20 Jun 2017, 19:55

Those clips

- numbskulls have been at work there. Fancy paying good money for work like that!

Post by **richlaz** » 20 Jun 2017, 20:10

Many thanks for the replies

The battery is a new Yuasa HSB010 with 680cca so that should be good.

I don't have the original pump unfortunately.

If I was to replace with a mechanical pump such as that on Brickwerks, would I need anything else, such as the pushrod, or fuel pump spacer? Seems a bit too simple... Just two screws and two pipes...?

Also, what's the difference between the many mechanical pumps available? They vary greatly in price... Is it just down to the build quality?

Post by **DoubleOSeven** » 20 Jun 2017, 20:16

http://www.realoem.me/Volkswagen/RDW/T2 ... /127/17000" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Post by **Da dan** » 20 Jun 2017, 20:22

It should be rubber mounted to help out with the noise. Is it a pull or a push pump? May be struggling as it needs to be closer the tank. It needs to build pressure before it quiets down but should after a few seconds. Should take it back and ask to see the fitting instructions and have a look your self to where it should be fitted. Also ask for it to be mounted on rubber washers and sort out the fuel line. If it is a push it will fall soon and you will be in a worse place than now as it will struggle to work at all. Good luck

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Post by **DoubleOSeven** » 20 Jun 2017, 20:24

Fuel pumps. Depends how long you want it or expect it to last. I bought this one two years ago, it's been fine. Comes with the two gaskets. It'll need a bit of grease too on the underside of the pump base on the moving part (very hard to press) but basically it moves up and down, by being pressed by the push rod. Anyway, I digress...Yes, you will need the rod and the bakerlite base it sits on. Very easy job.

https://www.vwheritage.com/025127025a-f ... -9l-in-t25" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Post by **richlaz** » 20 Jun 2017, 21:05

Many thanks for all the info. Much appreciated.

I think the best way forward is to revert back to a mechanical pump...

So, my shopping list is:
Mechanical fuel pump (+ gasket)
Fuel pump spacer
Gasket for spacer
Push rod
Fuel non return valve
Pile of fuel line clips
Length of fuel hose (because the hose to inlet of current elec pump wont reach location of mech pump)

Is there anything else I'll need before I put the order in?

I think I'll go for a slightly cheaper pump for now... (because I'm tight, and funds are low). Even if it doesn't last a very long time, it should only then be an easy 5 minute job to replace the pump, once everything else is back in place.

Many thanks

Post by **Mocki** » 20 Jun 2017, 21:52

Don't waste money on another mechanical pump , just take the van back to whoever fitted that electric one and tell to do the job again, correctly !

The pump should be down under the van by the tank outlet , the pipes should be held on with fuel pipe clips and the power to the pump should be via a relay triggered by the alternator So if anything happened , a pipe burst , or accident , as soon as the engine stopped the pump stops pumping .... as it is it will pump petrol all over the place until the ignition is turned off ...

By the way, how have they blanked the old mechanical pump port off ? It looks like the Bakelite spacer is still on there ?

Post by **richlaz** » 20 Jun 2017, 22:37

You are right Mocki... I should take it back and tell them to fix it properly. Technically that's the correct thing to do.

I'm in a bit of a dilemma... Now I know their standard of work, and the fact that they must have completely disregarded the instructions for the fuel pump, and just done what was quickest/easiest for them... Is that the type of people that I want to do further work on my vehicle to correct it... Not really?

I've recently moved out of the area too, so would be a bit of an inconvenience taking it back, and being without the vehicle etc.

What to do...

Not sure if they took the spacer off or not before fitting the blanking cap... Will have to take a closer look

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 20 Jun 2017, 23:34

Stick with the lecky one. Its only when someone actually upgrades to a facet pump that they realise how weak mech pumps really are. You could mount it yourself and just feed it from a point in fusebox that is live with ignition on. Noise is normal - sounds like a tiny hammer until float bowl is full then it more or less shuts up. I wouldn't go back to a mechanical pump now. Great as they are/were, they can take an age to pump fuel through on the starter alone (if they ever do) and you get fed up lifting engine hatch to splash fuel down carb throat to get it going again. I'd had enough of that!

Now it Vroooom and go!

Mech pumps were fine on bugs where tank was higher than pump but on a T25 its working its ass off. Good when they work, when they don't is VERY annoying. Looks like a facet copy by the way.

Post by **richlaz** » 21 Jun 2017, 00:07

As it seems to actually be working... For the time being I may just replace the jubilee clips with proper fuel pipe clips, and make sure the fuel pipes are adequately supported... Until I decide what to do

I've lost count of the amount of times I've had to use a WD40 lid (or similar) , and pour petrol into the carb... Usually when it hasn't been run for a while... It is indeed very frustrating!

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 21 Jun 2017, 05:55

The problem you could have with such a long run before the pump is if the line goes dry you're in a worse position than with a mech pump. This is because they push fuel rather than pull. This is why they're normally mounted so close to tank. If line does go dry, no amount of feeding fuel into carb will get you started again as you'd have to bleed entire line to get a contiunuous supply of fuel again.

Post by **richlaz** » 21 Jun 2017, 10:05

I see what you mean... So the planks in the garage really didn't solve anything... Just made the entire situation worse

For now I better hope I don't run out of fuel (which I'm always close to doing

) and not leave it more than a couple of days without running the engine!

Stress.

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