I've just bought a T25 1.6 Diesel and one of the first jobs I need to do is change the water pump belt. I understand I need to split the pulley then use the shims to tension the belt. But whats the best way to lock the pulley to get the bolts undone?
Is it best to work through the hole behind the number plate or from the top of the engine bay?
I've been looking for info online but seem to be drawing a blank.
Hi Rob, I don't remember ever having to use shims. Just buy a complete pump and casing to avoid having to re seal (they used to be in expensive as a full unit) and the belt tension is done by the Alt as I recall.
Confused! on the air cooled petrol engine this is the case, but on a diesel, loosen the alternator fixings, swing it in and the remove/replace the belt. Tension then tighten the alt bolts.
Ianh
The Laser ones are probably a bit pricey if it's just going to be used the once, but there cheaper alternatives available, or you could maybe try making one from a bit of sheet steel or plywood?
1988 LHD T25 1.6TD Westfalia Club Joker Hightop syncro
When I changed my belts I found it easier to lie underneath , the bolts in the pulley aren't too tight so just stuck a glove on my hand & held pulley tight,and yes , the water pump pulley is shimmed ,hopefully you'll have enough shims,
kev
When the belt is fitted I understand that it would be for your competent mechanic to stack any shims that aren't needed on the outer face of the pulley for possible later use...
Seems pretty straightforward - I can't see a flaw in that plan.
1988 LHD T25 1.6TD Westfalia Club Joker Hightop syncro
It looks like there's a little confusion between the single and double belt systems that were both used on diesels. The single has one belt driving both alternator and water pump, and is tensioned by pivoting the alternator. No shims are used with this setup.
With the two belt setup, the belts are much shorter and both driven by the crank pulley. The alternator belt is adjusted as above, but the water pump is fixed in place so has no pivoting adjustment, therefore the split pulley with shimming was devised to enable the belt depth in the pulley to be varied. With a new belt, it's often the case that all of the shims are needed between the pulley halves, then as it wears, shims can be removed to tension it. The removed shims should be moved to the front outer face of the pulley (for later use, next new belt). As for removing the bolts, the pump shaft has a three legged flange that the pulley bolts to. It should be possible to get a lever behind the pulley to lock the flange against somewhere solid on the engine.
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