Pierburg Carb Identification

[freckvan1]

Evening All,

I'm hoping someone can help me identify my Pierburg Carb, as a 2e / 2e3 .?

My van is a 1984 W/C 1,9 DG

Reference on Carb are :- 025 129 015H WW/AU 9 040 PIERBURG W/GERMANY 2E

I know the carb was changed to the one above about 13 years ago. Would a 2E3 have this on the casting?

Thanks,
Chris

[itchyfeet]

yes thats a 2e3
no the 3 is not cast in

[freckvan1]

That's great, thanks Paul .
So I've got a 2e3 makes more sense now.
Atb,
Chris.

[itchyfeet]

and it's not just any 2e3 ( they made perhaps fourty varients) it's a t25 2e3, you can tell because all t25 vw part numbers start 025

[bigherb]

you can tell because all t25 vw part numbers start 025

Except for the ones that don't.

[itchyfeet]

you can tell because all t25 vw part numbers start 025

Except for the ones that don't.

yes ok, my understanding is ....parts designed new for t25 start 025, so bits off older vehicles were used on t25s and won't start 025 but if you have a carb that starts 025 it was designed for a t25

[freckvan1]

Thanks lads, I can get on with getting engine ready to start after 28months inaction.

Removed Ignition Coil King Lead and Spark Plug leads, left old Plugs in, disconnect Fuel Line to Pump and will turn Engine over few times to circulate Oil.

Then reconnect Fuel Line, new plugs and hopefully fire up.

I am assuming this is ok.

Chris

[itchyfeet]

After 28 months I'd take plugs out, squirt a little oil in barrels ( perhaps spray oil with a straw attachment) then turn over with plugs out, this will help if you have some rust in bores and rusty rings.

disconnect coil is all thats necessary, you want your fuel pump to be pumping fuel and plugs out will make it turn over. quicker.

personally I'd be watching the coolant and pipe temp either side of thermostat as it warms to make sure everything is as it should be.

fresh oil and filter I hope.

[freckvan1]

Thanks Paul, sound advice.

I'll remove plugs, squirt some light oil down bores and leave for an hour.
Going to replace fuel pump outlet with longer pipe, enough to clear engine and into a bottle, just a bit conscious of flooding Carb.

Then start her up with 3 or 4 turns, clean up replace everything and go for it!
After she's run up to operating temperature I'll change oil and filter.

Let you know how I get on.

Chris

[itchyfeet]

you can't easily flood carb unless needle valve is shot because there is a bypass back to tank, thats the other fuel pipe.

3 or four turns is nothing, I do 40 ( 10 x4cylinders) on a compression check, with plugs out you wont flatten batt unless its knackered anyway.

[freckvan1]

Well Paul, didn't exactly do 30/40 turns but near enough, without plugs.

WD'd everything, fitted new plugs, double checked everything, rolled a fag, lit,
then turned key .

Engine fired up bl...y marvellous, sounded a little lumpy with black sooty smoke from exhaust,
increased revs slightly and smoke cleared and engine settled.

Ran up to operating temp. Switched off.

Got a tappetty noise which I think with oil change will be ok, it has been a long time since running
Ran out of time to change oil, have to do it Monday.

Thanks for all your help, have to admit I was brickin' it a bit, but so far ok.
Atb,
Chris

[itchyfeet]

Great

deffo need oil change, really should have done it first, oil degrades and so you are adding to engine wear.
Anyway tappet noise is very common even after a week or two rest, take it out and give it a good thrash ( after the oil change) and it will quieten down.

then change the coolant.

[freckvan1]

Can't reply too well, glasses nit smashed!

[freckvan1]

All sorted, two oil changes and filters.
Sounds fine now, coolant change later.