Engine Swap

[itchyfeet]

Coolant towers for manual gearbox and auto.

three types then

[Smosh]

Well maybe you can do it but it will take some thought.
I'm happy to take as many pics as you like of a late system
take a pic of all the late pipes you have
do you have the bleed rail?

No, I don't. I think, the only things I need are the bleed rail, distribution tower, and a way of getting from right to left of engine to the back of the thermostat housing!

Brickwerks sell those pipes and coolant tower. I bought both of those last year.
I got my bleed rail from VW heritage - a plastic one - but I am sure Ermie offered one to someone recently.... Drop her a PM?

Don't 100% know, but I seem to remember the DJ bleed rail being different to DG version. Someone will know for sure here

BW are out of stock! I'll drop Ermie a message and see, cheers!

Multisi has a Coolant Tower - so that's sorted... This maybe possible yet!

[Smosh]

Some photos of my engine insitu...

[Smosh]

I tried starting the engine last night: No joy. It almost started at one point but died quickly and then wouldnt fire. I'm on my own so not yet tested for spark and couldnt tell if it was getting fuel whilst turning over, however when I disconnected the fuel feed from the pump it trickled fuel, so it must be doing something. I'm told this was a goo runner by Mick at NWVW and the spark and dizzy cap look like new. Leads are on in the right order.
There are a few loose wires though that I am guessing will connect into coolant sensors when I get the coolant system fixed.
If when I'm next there I check and I am not getting sparks, is there something obvious that I may have forgot or need to connect?

I'm going to take an electric fuel pump and wire it in to test also.

[itchyfeet]

My money is on timing wrong as it tried to fire
the dizzy drive cog on the old engine may be in different to.new
had this myself recenly
get it to tdc compression on no 1 slacked dizzy pinch bolt and point rotar arm at plug 1 as an approximation
(Spark plug out finger over hole to feel compression)
If still no joy table spoon or two of fuel down carb

well done for getting it plumbed in

[Smosh]

My money is on timing wrong as it tried to fire
the dizzy drive cog on the old engine may be in different to.new
had this myself recenly
get it to tdc compression on no 1 slacked dizzy pinch bolt and point rotar arm at plug 1 as an approximation
(Spark plug out finger over hole to feel compression)
If still no joy table spoon or two of fuel down carb

well done for getting it plumbed in

Wrong timing does sound likely, it almost sounded like it stopped itself when it tried to start. I will adjust the dizzy. It didn't get replaced with the new engine though - the engine came with all auxillaries. That's not to say to isn't correct though!

[itchyfeet]

may be it's fitted now but in pic no connecon 12v to the bypass valve (cylinder thing on carb) , that won't be helping.

is there a good earth to left hard head no3&4?

[Smosh]

Yea, cleaned earth up with wire brush on a drill.

What should go onto the carb? Not sure which one that was?! knew I should have taken more pictures and bothered to do labels!

[Smiffo]

Yea, cleaned earth up with wire brush on a drill.

What should go onto the carb? Not sure which one that was?! knew I should have taken more pictures and bothered to do labels!

In your last pic Smosh, look where the fuel inlet is, then look down and right a bit ( 4 o'clock. )

There is a metal cylinder with black plastic end. That needs the respective connection with 12v on it.
I think it's the idle cut off valve. Basically cuts fuel to the carb when ignition is switched off I think, so without the wire connected, carb is in constant state as if ignition is off.

[Smosh]

Yea, cleaned earth up with wire brush on a drill.

What should go onto the carb? Not sure which one that was?! knew I should have taken more pictures and bothered to do labels!

In your last pic Smosh, look where the fuel inlet is, then look down and right a bit ( 4 o'clock. )

There is a metal cylinder with black plastic end. That needs the respective connection with 12v on it.
I think it's the idle cut off valve. Basically cuts fuel to the carb when ignition is switched off I think, so without the wire connected, carb is in constant state as if ignition is off.

thanks, now to find the missing offending feed. Since when did carbs need electric! Pfft!

[itchyfeet]

Basically cuts fuel to the carb when ignition is switched off I think, so without the wire connected, carb is in constant state as if ignition is off.

not quite, it only stops the idle fuel to help prevent runing on, it should start with it disconeted because you should have pumped the acelerator giving fuel from the accelerator pump and it's on choke but it won't help. It will tend to stall without this connected.

is this a known good carb or not?

it can take a while to bring fuel up the pipe from tank at starter speeds, carb may well be empty, check ignition timing, check ypu have a spark from leads, chuck some fuel down carb.

[Smiffo]

I defer to Itchy's experience on that bit
I think you can see the `spare` connection in pic 1 and 2 though....

Black wire with yellow connector on the end?

[Smosh]

So got to the van today and established a few things:

1) I really dont have a clue what I am doing

2) I have lots of wires that dont obviously connect to the other wires

3) I should have bought an engine with the same coolant system

4) I really, really dont have a clue what I am doing!!!!


Here are some pictures of the mess!









From the Itchy's pics (thanks btw) i've established that the carb wires need to all be connected to the 12v+ feed. I cant find a combination with a suitable end or length to achieve this - that said two are missing ends. Im tempted to cut the cable - most the ends are knackerd and redo it - but it appears that it wont be as simple as just one feed to all switches. so;

i) Idle cut off valve & Choke heater ignition +12v - When key is in full on position (but not cranking) it should read 12v on multi-meter?

ii) Manifold heater (pic three red wire) and throttle body heater - connected to the temp sender? on the thermostat? both to the same?

iii) What should the wire from the dizzy that goes to a two pin connector that also disappears under the engine be connected too?


Sorry for all the novice questions!

Next issue, I have no spark!?

I fitted the dizzy, coil etc that came with the engine. However when I tested the system on my dodgy homemade ignition tester I had no spark. I tried original coil, cap and plug and still no spark!? What have I forgotten to reconnect. the two pin and two single wires are connected to the dizzy.

[itchyfeet]

First pic, oil pressure switches, they have brown wires over engine and connect in loom to coloured wires, you only need the low pressure switch as you have an early van, switch is between push rod tubes and connects to blue/black in loom, don't connect the other switch anywhere

[itchyfeet]

Don't worry too much about carb electrics for the moment, it should start with none of them conne ted, it may not run well but that can be sorted later, insulate them and concentrate on getting a spark and getting it firing/starting.

coil needs 12V to black wire on + terminal nd you need a good earth ( brown wire ) to engine head