Exhaust replacement

[Sleedale]

After some very hefty bills, I've decided I need to do some research. We need a new exhaust for our 1985 watercooled van, so if I buy the complete system from Brickwerks, what sort of fitting costs should I be quoted? I know it depends largely on whether the old one drops off easily, not a likely prospect, but has anyone had one fitted and how much did it cost you.
Thank you

[captain Byrne]

Bit of a piece of string question really. All depends how easily (or not so) the studs come out. It's for this reason I don't think many will give you a firm quote as it could take a lot of work to get them out, then again they could come out in a breeze. One thing you may want to consider is a stainless steel option & I can personally recommend Pro Speed in Cardiff who do a fitted price, but if you go down the Brickwerks route just talk to Simon. He'll offer you the best advice.

[Sleedale]

Thanks for this, sadly we are in North Yorkshire so Cardiff is a bit far for the exhaust. I did look on brickwerks for a stainless system, but for our van they only do the steel one I think?

Many thanks, all advice gratefully received

[captain Byrne]

So is yours an early? They do a Late (85 onwards). https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... -2-1l.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Sleedale]

Yes, sorry should've said, it's on the cusp, but basically early version.

[scottbott]

how about a VW speedshop one?,maybe Andrew at Campershack in Grantham,he fitted mine

[Sleedale]

Will look at campershack, thank you

[slowcoach]

I'm in West Yorkshire, and Alec at New Barn garage in Todmorden fitted my old speedshop exhaust. He's done lots of work on t3's and drives one himself. Would be worth checking out as it might not be too far from you.

[Sleedale]

Thank you, will check that one as well, getting closer to us, but experience and knowledge is a huge advantage, folks who know them know what to expect.

[dbz864]

i think campershack do a fixed price (but i may be wrong) he also has an excellent reputation i believe

[Mr Bean]

Probably best not to touch any of the fixings holding the exhaust to the heads unless you can be sure they are going to loosen without stripping/breaking.
I say this as I have one stripped and as it shows no sign of leaking I do not intend to attempt to go further until I am ready to embark on a helicoiling session possibly involving head removal. In my case this would really be best done in the summer.
Just a thought...

CS

[blacky]

If you do have to undo any nuts on cyl head studs don't just apply more and more pressure. If they're tight use heat (pref. oxy/acetyline) to heat the nut or if not drill down side of nut with a new good quality drill bit and open drilled hole with sharp chisel to remove nut then run a die nut down stud to clean thread.

[Mr Bean]

If you do have to undo any nuts on cyl head studs don't just apply more and more pressure. If they're tight use heat (pref. oxy/acetyline) to heat the nut or if not drill down side of nut with a new good quality drill bit and open drilled hole with sharp chisel to remove nut then run a die nut down stud to clean thread.

Yes there is a big clue in that i.e. don't use set screws in this application.
My exhaust van came back from the engine rebuilder with set screws and had I realized the problem I would have changed them for studs and nuts before they got corroded in.
CS