Oh no not again...

Big lumps of metals and spanners. Including servicing and fluids.

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itchyfeet
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Re: Oh no not again...

Post by itchyfeet »

no

it is a bit easier to turn but then you are not concentrating on the job in hand, imagine if something goes wrong, best leave them alone, one thing at a time.

You need a stubby flat screwdriver to turn tappet adjusters and a ring spanner (15mm maybe can't remember), for locknuts, TDC is when rotor arm points at no 1 spark plug HT lead, adjust no 1 cylinder first ( right front of van as you view from rear) turn engine clockwise 1 4 3 2 or anti clockwise 1 2 3 4 half a crank turn for each cylinder adjust.
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Sir Brixalot
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Re: Oh no not again...

Post by Sir Brixalot »

Thanks - looking forward to cracking on.Got the tools
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mrhutch
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Re: Oh no not again...

Post by mrhutch »

itchyfeet wrote:STEP AWAY FROM THE SPARK PLUGS, one thing at a time.

Concentrate on the problem....

chap, listen to this advice :ok
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itchyfeet
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Re: Oh no not again...

Post by itchyfeet »

all WBX should have hydraulics u less somebody buggered about with it.

After adjustment you van won't start for a few hours minimum, best leave it over night, haynes neglect to memtion this but they are doing a rebuild and so if following that you would be unlikely to get the engine back in in quick.

reason is when you release tappets they suck in oil from the gallery, when you preload tappets again valves open, no compression.
Over night they will bleed down a bit and you should be fine, compression again.

Imagine if you had changed spark plugs as well and it didn't start, then you would have no idea why and would probably assume spark plug problems, thats why you should do one job at a time.
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bigbadbob76
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Re: Oh no not again...

Post by bigbadbob76 »

itchyfeet wrote: After adjustment you van won't start for a few hours minimum,
reason is when you release tappets they suck in oil from the gallery, when you preload tappets again valves open, no compression.
Over night they will bleed down a bit and you should be fine, compression again.

Great info Itchy. cheers for the heads up. :ok
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itchyfeet
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Re: Oh no not again...

Post by itchyfeet »

empirical knoledge :D
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what2do
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Re: Oh no not again...

Post by what2do »

bigbadbob76 wrote:
itchyfeet wrote: After adjustment you van won't start for a few hours minimum,
reason is when you release tappets they suck in oil from the gallery, when you preload tappets again valves open, no compression.
Over night they will bleed down a bit and you should be fine, compression again.

Great info Itchy. cheers for the heads up. :ok

Yeah, he can be nice - at times :rollin :rollin :rollin
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?

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itchyfeet
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Re: Oh no not again...

Post by itchyfeet »

Saying nice things about me, must need some help on his van again :rofl
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Sir Brixalot
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Re: Oh no not again...

Post by Sir Brixalot »

I'm sadly lacking in that. Had a 30mm socket but the ratchet doesnt lock so I need to go and get the right spanner which will be easier to establish half a turn. None of the tappets are loose to the touch and there are no gaps unfortunately but I'll adjust them and see what happens


On number 3 the first valve was much easier to turn in two revolutions than the others. Is that significant?
Last edited by Sir Brixalot on 03 Feb 2017, 12:40, edited 2 times in total.
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what2do
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Re: Oh no not again...

Post by what2do »

itchyfeet wrote:Saying nice things about me, must need some help on his van again :rofl


Shhhhh, all going well at the moment especially now it has programmable intermittent wipers - don't know how I ever lived without them.
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?

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itchyfeet
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Re: Oh no not again...

Post by itchyfeet »

Sir Brixalot wrote:I'm sadly lacking in that. Had a 30mm socket but the ratchet doesnt lock so I need to go and get the right spanner which will be easier to establish half a turn. None of the tappets are loose to the touch and there are no gaps unfortunately but I'll adjust them and see what happens


On number 3 the once I've adjusted the screw to touch, I can only tighten less than quarter of a turn not two turns.


put a tippex mark on tdc mark on fan belt pulley and another directly opposite to make life easy

don't understand your comment on no3
no3 cylinded has two adjusters?

adjusting the screw opens the valve so it will be tight but it should turn?
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Re: Oh no not again...

Post by Sir Brixalot »

I've got a feeling I've misunderstood Haynes. I turned the engine half a turn to move to each cylinder. On each pair of valves I loosened the nuts holding the screw in place. Unwound the screws on each valve, turned them back in until they were just touching then screwed them down two full 360 degree turns and then tightened the nut. I did this four times on the LH cylinder head.
Last edited by Sir Brixalot on 03 Feb 2017, 13:18, edited 1 time in total.
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itchyfeet
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Re: Oh no not again...

Post by itchyfeet »

At TDC for cylinder no1 is where you start, adjust both valves on cylinder 1

then turn crank 1/2 turn clock wise and adjust both valves on cylinder 4,

then 1/2 turn cylinder 3, then 1/2 turn cylinder 2
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Re: Oh no not again...

Post by Sir Brixalot »

Phew. Just sit and wait now for oil to drain back in. I noticed the cover had some scraping inside by valves on cylinder 3
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itchyfeet
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Re: Oh no not again...

Post by itchyfeet »

valves should be no where near cover unless cover has been bashed.

did you manage to adjust all with 1.5 or 2 turns from touching?
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