Carb problems

[AvoidDeadEnds]

Hello
I've a 1.9 petrol recon vege engine installed in 2006 in a t25 1988 vw. Had to get towed home tonight by a really nice bloke working for AA. The engine was running very nicely but then began to cut out completely as if there was too much petrol being pumped in which made it lose power and stall. It started up easily and was turning over but there was no power to move the vehicle, it was very juddery. After resting for 20 mins or so started it up again and it ticked over but again began to lose power when driving.

I called the AA and after an hour the man arrived, I started the engine and it seemed to tick over as normal. He checked the lines and could find nothing out, split or anything.

Luckily he said he'd follow us for a while and after five minutes the engine began cutting out again and then we got a tow home.

He said that I should replace my carb.

I live in Abberley about 20 mins from Worcester and wondered if anyone could come and have a look or give me advice here?

David

[kevtherev]

Reads like a mixture problem
Blocked pilot jet
Vacuum leak

Other suspect is a failing coil.

My 10p

[AvoidDeadEnds]

Hi thanks for your 10p! Thought it may have been dirt in the one of the hoses. Going to try to do a bit of cleaning and checking tomorrow evening.

[Paul Southworth]

I have had a similar problem recently, it turned out to be a vacuum hose off the distributor. Sounds simple but A visible check of all vacuum hoses is a good starting point. Good luck.

[a1winchester]

Have you changed the dizzy cap, rotor arm and HT leads recently? I had the same symptoms as you, and replacing these cured it. I think the rotor arm was the culprit, but it was worth changing all of these as I don't know how old the previous ones were.

[AvoidDeadEnds]

Booked vehicle in to my local garage. They are really good there and prefer the older model....will let you know what they say. Going to suggest all of the above so thanks for that.

I hope they don't get the wrong idea and start thinking I am familiar with engines if I use technical terms like those?

[AvoidDeadEnds]

Hello
An update on a six month old post. Still having problems with the running of the engine when hot.
So following advice from here have replaced dizzy cap, rotar arm, ht leads and coil. Today I put on a new ignition amp and took it for a run.
In today's meeting with the AA after the ignition switch died (I'd pulled over following a bit of engine power loss and the AA man had to hot wire the switch to get it going) and he advised me that I should replace the entire distributor unit.
So now I'm saving up to do this through a garage to get it tuned.

[New Kentish Campers]

My first van gave very similar problems ( as per your original post) where the AA guy scratched his head and couldn't diagnose the fault. Upon being relayed home from Dorset I bought a carb overhaul kit and replaced all the gaskets. My fault was in fact a leaky float valve, which gave overfuelling, stalling, poor idle issues, etc.From thinking about it afterward, I realised that the van ran ok at motorway and A road speeds because the fuel could be mostly burnt , but would soon play up as I slowed down, simply as the overfuelling was choking the engine and as soon as I slowed down in traffic, it really played up! A very sooty exhaust tail pipe confirmed it too

I did also replaced my distributor cap and leads with good quality Brickwerks ones, plus plugs and rotor arm. It ran like a dream afterward.

Hope that helps you

[CovKid]

Float valve possibly the most common failure on these carbs and even worse if you add an electric fuel pump. Earlier bay carbs often suffered due to wear in throttle flap bushes but not so much on pierburgs yet. Personally I think five years is a good benchmark for a regasket - before the rubber deteriorates.

[AvoidDeadEnds]

Do you think I should get a carb refurb kit rather than replacing the entire unit?

[New Kentish Campers]

For the cost of a overhaul kit v a new carb, then yes, its worth a punt. Besides, its unlikely that you'd find a new carb off the shelf nowadays but there is a firm that offers a full rebuild service (Kev mentioned it recently I think.) As Ralph has said, the float valve is most common fault, as I discovered so you might well cure your ills for a modest cost.

[Wilber]

I take it the carb is a Pierberg 2e3?

If so have you checked/cleaned the cone filter in the inlet pipe to the carb?

Number 2 on the diagram:

[itchyfeet]

Besides, its unlikely that you'd find a new carb off the shelf nowadays.

apparently you can

http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... 0#p8168473" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[AvoidDeadEnds]

Thanks for such great advice.
Will look for the filter and clean it.

The Carb was cleaned by my local car mechanic. I was thinking of replacing the distributor body.
Do you think that it is worth replacing the distributor?

[DoubleOSeven]

Test the distributor, don't change it out. Might be ok. Have a search on YouTube on how to do it?


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