Fizzing and Smoke

[lenry]

OK, scary evening..

Having tested an in dash USB charge port, in the house connected to a zig unit's 12v output, and then in the van connected to fuse 10 (I want it only powered with the ignition).

I confidently cut the hole, installed the USB outlet, attached the positive to Fuse 10 and negative to the ground tree.
I connected my iPhone with the same lightning cable as before, turned the key... to the sound of fizzing and a lot of smoke coming from the dash. Promptly turned the back again and vented the van.

After the Van was clear:

• Checked the fuses [no visual damage]
  Checked the newly installed wires [no damage]
  Checked the wires terminated at the ignition switch [Bingo!]

The black wire's outer skin has been severely melted, all the way along it's length, back to the fuse box.

At this point I moved the USB outlet's positive wire to fuse 8 and tested, it charged my iPhone.
Nothing else electrical seems to have been hit, I've taken a real close look at the other wires and fuses, the head lights and interior light are working.

I have also found that the ignition switch has been damaged as I can not turn the key, now I can not start the camper! - I'm assuming the interior plastic has melted.

My assumption is that something shorted when I pushed the fuse box back up and secured it in place (?) or.......

Help
Can any one offer their wisdom, before I replace the wire and ignition switch ( and potentially damage them again).

[bigherb]

My assumption is that something shorted when I pushed the fuse box back up and secured it in place (?) or.......

Yes it did.

E D I T pushed wrong button see below.

[bigherb]

My assumption is that something shorted when I pushed the fuse box back up and secured it in place (?) or.......

Yes it did most likely trapped the black wire. A short will burn the thinnest wire from point of short to the power source ignition switch in this case.

[lenry]

Thanks BigHerb,

The wire is burnt all along it's length, the spade on the fuse box is now bright bronze (from the heat).

Ordered a full set of fuses, to ensure the fuse box is setup correctly, as I'm assuming the wrong rated fuse was inline with the ignition wire. Also it seems a tidy up is required before I push it back again.

Anyone have ideas for changing the ignition switch, which will not move from the position at which the key is inserted.

From watching a YouTube video, the switch assembly needs to be engaged for it to be removed from it's housing?

[Moonrakers]

Thanks BigHerb,

The wire is burnt all along it's length, the spade on the fuse box is now bright bronze (from the heat).

Ordered a full set of fuses, to ensure the fuse box is setup correctly, as I'm assuming the wrong rated fuse was inline with the ignition wire. Also it seems a tidy up is required before I push it back again.

Anyone have ideas for changing the ignition switch, which will not move from the position at which the key is inserted.

From watching a YouTube video, the switch assembly needs to be engaged for it to be removed from it's housing?

Yes, the steering lock needs to be disengaged with the key turned to position 1 as far as I remember. I am not sure if its possible to remove the housing and get to the switch in the conventional way without the keys - it would be a a security issue if it were possible, I suppose. I hope somebody can pop in with some good news on this.

(The job to change the switch is not a difficult one otherwise0

On a slightly different note, when I added a USB charger I elected not to add anything to the van's own electrical system (it's completely original and mercifully free of bodgery) but merely connected the charger straight to the battery terminals, with a fuse nearby. That way it's always live which is convenient when camping. A simple screw-off battery isolator can stop battery drain from the tiny led on the charger if necessary when the van's laid up.