Rear hub carrier nuts

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dickspanner
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Rear hub carrier nuts

Post by dickspanner »

Ok, hopefully this is a straight forward question.

After rebuilding bearings and brakes on back of crewcab, I was looking for torque setting of the 44mm Nuts and have two values. One 360 and the other 500. Both Nm. Which is correct and if it is 500Nm how the f do i get them to that as all 5 torque wrenches i have access to do not go that high. I have the ability with the 1nch set and truck sockets to go well past that but setting it to that, I have no way of doing.

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itchyfeet
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Re: Rear hub carrier nuts

Post by itchyfeet »

I think it involves a 6 foot scaffhold pole and you standing on it

500Nm
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Re: Rear hub carrier nuts

Post by itchyfeet »

Thinking about it if you were 50kg then standing at 1m should be enough?
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Re: Rear hub carrier nuts

Post by dickspanner »

Funny, I had a 8ft scaffold tube and heat on them to try and crack them but ended up stitch drilling them and splitting the off.

500Nm. Christ almighty. I will find a local truck mechanic and borrow a torque wrench.

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Re: Rear hub carrier nuts

Post by clift_d »

50kg on the end of a 1m lever would be accurate enough, then you should continue on to the next slot to fit the cotter pin.
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Re: Rear hub carrier nuts

Post by Mr Bean »

I hit this problem and I approached it using th following procedure:
Find the required value in your preferred units - pound feet, Newton Meters etc. then weigh yourself in you selected units - say pounds for instance, divide the torque value by your weight and the resulting distance is the length in feet of your torque bar at the point where you stand on it. Do not be tempted to jump up and down! Likewise if you use a torque wrench just the one click should be right.
So if you weighed 200 pounds and you were looking for 500 pound feet you would stand at a point 2.5 feet from the center of the nut. So change the distance to Did I get that right folks?
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Re: Rear hub carrier nuts

Post by what2do »

dickspanner wrote:Ok, hopefully this is a straight forward question.

After rebuilding bearings and brakes on back of crewcab, I was looking for torque setting of the 44mm Nuts and have two values. One 360 and the other 500. Both Nm. Which is correct and if it is 500Nm how the f do i get them to that as all 5 torque wrenches i have access to do not go that high. I have the ability with the 1nch set and truck sockets to go well past that but setting it to that, I have no way of doing.

Cheers

Dickspanner
The number of castellations on the nut determines the required torque figure - or so it says in Bentley. I did mine this summer, on one side I resorted to gas to get the nut off as it wasn't moving with a 6 foot pipe on the breaker bar, in fact the van was moving an awful lot which is why I stopped. Used the snap on gun for the other side and it spun off in a second - very impressed.
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Re: Rear hub carrier nuts

Post by R0B »

Two fat blokes and a scaffolding tube has always worked for me. :-)
And one of these and a lump hammer is invaluable for removing the nut.
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Re: Rear hub carrier nuts

Post by what2do »

Using a 4 foot torque wrench set at 500 Nm, I inadvertently over tightened mine. I shall explain, I was expecting an awful lot of pulling to be required before I got close to the setting, thus, I pulled merrily away until it clicked - oops, too far. With the correct tool, it didn't take a lot of effort to reach the correct figure. And do I had to undo it a little and readjust with a little more care second time around. 2 heaving fellas on a pole is going to be a tad too much I suspect as is one bloke jumping up and down.
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Re: Rear hub carrier nuts

Post by RogerT »

Citizen Smith wrote:I hit this problem and I approached it using th following procedure:
Find the required value in your preferred units - pound feet, Newton Meters etc. then weigh yourself in you selected units - say pounds for instance, divide the torque value by your weight and the resulting distance is the length in feet of your torque bar at the point where you stand on it. Do not be tempted to jump up and down! Likewise if you use a torque wrench just the one click should be right.
So if you weighed 200 pounds and you were looking for 500 pound feet you would stand at a point 2.5 feet from the center of the nut. So change the distance to Did I get that right folks?
CS

Yup. That's what I did too, but then I started to wonder worry bit of me should be 3.144 feet from the nut? So I made a measured a mark on the scaffold pole and placed one foot directly over it, and balanced on that one foot! Without bouncing on it...

Do we all have 5 ft scaffold poles in our garages? Weird, you don't see them for sale in many places, but everyone's got one! :oops:
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Re: Rear hub carrier nuts

Post by tobydog »

RogerT wrote: Do we all have 5 ft scaffold poles in our garages? Weird, you don't see them for sale in many places, but everyone's got one! :oops:

10 ft one that spans the walls of the garage for using a hoist, doesn't blink at hub nuts. Didn't cost a penny :D
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Re: Rear hub carrier nuts

Post by ZsZ »

what2do wrote:
dickspanner wrote:Ok, hopefully this is a straight forward question.

After rebuilding bearings and brakes on back of crewcab, I was looking for torque setting of the 44mm Nuts and have two values. One 360 and the other 500. Both Nm. Which is correct and if it is 500Nm how the f do i get them to that as all 5 torque wrenches i have access to do not go that high. I have the ability with the 1nch set and truck sockets to go well past that but setting it to that, I have no way of doing.

Cheers

Dickspanner
The number of castellations on the nut determines the required torque figure - or so it says in Bentley. I did mine this summer, on one side I resorted to gas to get the nut off as it wasn't moving with a 6 foot pipe on the breaker bar, in fact the van was moving an awful lot which is why I stopped. Used the snap on gun for the other side and it spun off in a second - very impressed.

As said above The 6 hole castle nut (the older one) is torqued to 350Nm and the 8 or 10 hole (newer one) is the 500. AFAIK the inner distance ring between the two bearings was also changed to a thicker wall one with the new nut.
If you dont have a big torque wrench the the 1m bar and 50kgs force is the 500Nm (or divide the torque with your weight in kgs and you will get the distance you have to stand on the breaker bar)
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Re: Rear hub carrier nuts

Post by Smosh »

ZsZ wrote: If you dont have a big torque wrench the the 1m bar and 50kgs force is the 500Nm (or divide the torque with your weight in kgs and you will get the distance you have to stand on the breaker bar)

Some of us just stand on a spanner... :lol:
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