3 way fridge questions
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- Ant-t
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3 way fridge questions
I've removed my fridge as the start of my kitchen refurbished, it's an Electrolux RM 123e which works fine on 240v when on hookup and also on gas. The 12v has never worked since I've had the van, I want to get the 12v working again so the fridge can work whilst travelling. So I'm after some advice on how to do this.
The original 12v wiring was connected to an old power socket below the cooker which had melted the live coupling insulation. A po had disconnected the 12v probably as a safety measure, I've read that they draw a lot of power so maybe the approach is a relay to the starter battery and coil with an illuminated on/off switch? I have a leisure battery with a split charger fitted if that would be wiser?
On a different note, the flue was connected to a T piece, the up side goes up to the flue exit at the side of the van. But the down side is open, should this be blocked?
All advice welcome.
Ant
The original 12v wiring was connected to an old power socket below the cooker which had melted the live coupling insulation. A po had disconnected the 12v probably as a safety measure, I've read that they draw a lot of power so maybe the approach is a relay to the starter battery and coil with an illuminated on/off switch? I have a leisure battery with a split charger fitted if that would be wiser?
On a different note, the flue was connected to a T piece, the up side goes up to the flue exit at the side of the van. But the down side is open, should this be blocked?
All advice welcome.
Ant
1983 DG Kamper 2
Re: 3 way fridge questions
Mine is open and I'm guessing it's to help draw the air flow. 12v takes long time and eats the battery's (I have two on split charge and will only last a few hours before flat). Run all on gas much better.
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- marlinowner
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Re: 3 way fridge questions
First the flue, the tee piece should be left open, the airflow through it carries the exhaust gases away.
The 12v supply for the fridge is usually connected through the ignition so you can't accidently flatten the battery - split charger relay may have a dedicated connection for it. The fridge will draw about 10 amps, it should be fused to avoid more melted wiring.
Well as above ^^^
12v operation is really only to keep the fridge cool whilst driving, use 240v or gas to cool it down first and when canping.
The 12v supply for the fridge is usually connected through the ignition so you can't accidently flatten the battery - split charger relay may have a dedicated connection for it. The fridge will draw about 10 amps, it should be fused to avoid more melted wiring.
Well as above ^^^
12v operation is really only to keep the fridge cool whilst driving, use 240v or gas to cool it down first and when canping.
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- Ant-t
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Re: 3 way fridge questions
Thanks for the input, the open t on the flue makes sense, I still like the idea of revamping the 12v to keep the fridge cool whilst the engine is running. I think I'll work on the install.
1983 DG Kamper 2
Re: 3 way fridge questions
The 12v side of the fridge is usually connected to the spade connector on the back of the alternator then to a relay then to the fridge.Check the Wiki the instructions should be there.
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Re: 3 way fridge questions
As far as I know they have separate elements for 12v & mains supplies. If you have it out check the continuity of the elements & if you have 12 v getting to the fridge.
- craigy345
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Re: 3 way fridge questions
Jeff J wrote:As far as I know they have separate elements for 12v & mains supplies. If you have it out check the continuity of the elements & if you have 12 v getting to the fridge.
As above ^
If you have the fridge out check the 12v element is working.
(there are 2 elements, 12v and 240v) each connected to its relevant supply 12v DC or the 240v AC plug.
Find the 12v element and 2 x wires from it (one is + and the other -)
connect a 12v supply to it (spare battery etc..) it should get hot !!!!
If it doesn't heat up and you have connected it correctly the element has gone and will need replacement.
If it does heat up the problem lies else where - check wiring and relay.
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- Ant-t
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Re: 3 way fridge questions
Thanks for the input, yes the fridge is out and I have a spare battery charged to test it. The 240v has always worked ok, I had it working again once the fridge was in the garage the other day. Have also discovered cables leading to the front/dash, need to trace them but they may be for the travelling on/off 12v switch. I have an illuminated switch in the dash which was already disconnected when I got the van so I may be able to rig this back up.
1983 DG Kamper 2
- Ant-t
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Re: 3 way fridge questions
So I've traced all the installed wiring and I have a feed from the starter battery to the fridge but no switch or relay. Does anyone know what relay I need to fit for a switch controlled 12v feed when the engine is running?
1983 DG Kamper 2
Re: 3 way fridge questions
Have you checked the wiki ?
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Re: 3 way fridge questions
Mine uses a 30 amp relay.
2.1 LPG/Petrol Auto Caravelle
"The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits"
"The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits"
Re: 3 way fridge questions
My viking had an orange relay under the dash on the right hand side & was operated via its own switch on the r/h of the dash......I might still have a spare kicking about if needed...
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- Ant-t
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Re: 3 way fridge questions
vwaddict wrote:My viking had an orange relay under the dash on the right hand side & was operated via its own switch on the r/h of the dash......I might still have a spare kicking about if needed...
Thanks very much, very kind of you, I'll pick one up now I know the spec.
Ant
1983 DG Kamper 2