WBXlog

[itchyfeet]

These are the new conrods, I think they are cheap at £112 for a set of four genuine VW parts.

When they are all gone we will all need to refurbish the old ones. I'd rather keep these for a future 2.1 build which ideally needs the stretch bolts supplied.

P1050541 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

all within 2g

P1050540 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

The pins don't drop under their own weight

P1050577 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr


they have a wax coating that needs removing.

[300CE]

Marvellous work there Paul!

Thanks Justin

Trying to do it to the best of my ability now I have time.
Some of this I have not done before, some I have but not on this type of engine, some I have done many times.
Before I had no spare engine to fit and so I was against the clock, never get good results if you have limited time.

Certainly need to take your time with something like this mate!

Just seen your update on the con rods and was thinking of starting to build up on some spares whilst they're still available and awaiting the inevitable on my DG.

Enjoying the thread mate.

[itchyfeet]

yep, wish I'd got more than one genuine DG cam when they were just 75 quid

I know eveybody wants a DJ but the DG is the workhorse of the T25 lots and lots of them still out there and lets hope this thread inspires some people to keep them & rebuild them

[itchyfeet]

These are Rings from Brickwerks, Boxed Kolbenschmidt ( but with other names on the label like MS MotorService and KSPG!)

The rings are in a pouch marked with position and the compresions rings have top written on them


P1050611 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Using one set of rings to check all four pistons

Top grooves a 0.05mm feeler guage will just fit a 0.1mm won't ( except one that was just about fitting a 0.1mm feeler guage)

P1050617 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

middle groove a 0.05mm feeler gauge barely fits same on all

P1050618 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

lowest oil scraper rings groove a 0.05mm feeler guage won't fit

P1050619 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr


all nicely with in limits ( all in Bentley)

[itchyfeet]

Next ring were checked in a barrel for end gap , I will check the other sets later when I'm assembling.

Bentley states to push ring in the bottom or the barrel, I can't see the point it will never sit here but I did it anyway to see how it compared with the top, 0.5 at the bottom, 0.6 at the top, to be expected this barrel isn't honed yet and there is some dirt at the bottom ( because the rings never run here )


P1050620 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1050622 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

I checked all the others at the top because it's easier to fit without risk of damaging the rings and easier to get square by using a piston.

2nd compression ring was 0.6 too

these compression rings these are a bit above spec for a new ring, barrels are pretty much spot on! anyway well within limits and so nothing to worry about.

P1050624 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

oil scraper was at the lower end on limits at 0.2mm, excellent, remove the spring for the test!
P1050626 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

[itchyfeet]

Honed the barrels tonght, used brake fluid and the laser honing tool ( listed post 2)
started in half spring tension then finished with min spring tension.
slow speed battery drill moving in and out as fast as it rotates.
Who knows how much is enough? did it in 10 second steps, probably did 40 seconds per barrel.

P1050649 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

I also cleaned the compression sealing surface with 1200 wet and dry and brake fluid turning only in a circular motion.

P1050646 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1050648 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

as you can see there is a ding in the sealing surface above and the one below, that's what you get when you chance second hand stuff

P1050643 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

So I Honed the original barrels 1 & 4 which are good but just slightly more worn.

So I now have one good set of barrels and one good set of pistons to refit
( worth giving the bore a light oiling or it will rust very fast as I found the next day!!!)

P1050650 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

[hightop ratty]

What is the difference between a DJ & DG engine ?

(I presume the DJ is a later digijet - injection engine),

& the DG is the older carb engine

This is a lay mans terms
But interested to increase my knowledge (a little bit at a time, for a bit more understanding).
Really enjoying this thread

Cheers
Rob

[itchyfeet]

A DJ is a 2.1 as well as an MV is a 2.1 a DG is a 1.9

The DJ amd MV was only sold with injection but you can fit one with carb becase they are the same engine case
DG was only sold with carb.

there was an Early DG before they made a 2.1 with a slightly different engine case internally.
The later DG shares the same engine case as a DJ so can be converted to a 2.1 by swapping internals parts

The main difference between 2.1 and 1.9 engines internally are pistons, cams and crank.

Really enjoying this thread

Cheers
Rob

thanks

[Ant-t]

Great thread, excellent work

[hightop ratty]

You learn something new every day

My 2.1 is likely to be a DJ then (I thought it was a DG)
It is a later engine I believe, & I had it running (well i did until the big bang the other week) with a refurbished pierburg carb (from my old 1.9 which expired).

[itchyfeet]

No guarantees because things can be changed
Even if it has a DJ engine code stamped on somebody could have rebuilt it with MV pistons ( lower compression than DJ)
or it could even be rebuilt built as a DG spec if thats the only bits somebody had.
In the same way there are DGs rebuilt as DJs and MVs and the engine code may not have been restamped

[weimarbus]

Thanks for the heads up on the con rods, mine arrived today and have been squirreled away

[itchyfeet]

Clened Piston ring groove using old broken rings, the correct ring for the correct groove.
You can use two of the second, lower compression rings to clean the oil scraper ring groove
must take great care not to slip out and scratch the piston, I found it easiest to hold the ring and turn the piston, you get more control.
These had loads of dirt in them.

P1050680 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1050678 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

2mm twist drill to clean the oil holes

P1050684 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
inspect the circlip groove for damage ( forgot to do this earlier)

P1050685 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

give it a clean in paraffin with a nylon brush ( cheapest nylon brushes you will find )

I don't plan to eat off these so some of the dirt stays, I see no benefit in cleaning too much
P1050690 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

[itchyfeet]

Next is to pair Pistons with Barrels ( if they were the same as removed they would have been paired)
Check each piston ring set with each barrel for end gaps.
When I did this before I just checked one barrel and one set of rings to check they were not way off as I have seen reports of with some ring brands.
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 5#p8160275" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

P1050692 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

I have two piston ring expander tools because the oil scraper has a spring inside and so I modified one tool by filing a slot to accept the spring, It also helps if you bend the tabs out a bit so they are more cup shaped to grip the ring and stop it making a break for freedom.

To be honest it's easier by hand but they are sharp, you need leathery thumbs or gloves, I did the rest by hand but the ring manufacturer states to use expanders, so this is the correct way to do it.

P1050519 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1050702 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

the oil scraper ring has a spring that can be expanded, taking a new one out a packet the expansion gap is 180 from the ring gap so should be kept that way.

P1050693 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1050696 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1050703 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

By comparison the two compression rings are easy just get them the right way ( slotted one is the lower ring) and with the top markers right.
The non modified expander is used for this because they would slip into the slot of the modified one.

Aligning the ring gaps correctly will be done just before they are fitting to the barrels.

[itchyfeet]

All the other ring gaps checked tonight and as you would expect the gaps are bigger on the old barrels than the better newer replacements.
Ideally if you have the money and you want long life you buy new barrels.

All rings in pistons ( by hand easier )

Next is to put the pistons back in the barrels

They are all arrowed to flywheel but still easy to get wrong, this is No1 and this is the way up it is, oil scraper ring and no 1 compression ring gap is up, the 2nd compression ( middle) ring gap is down.
When you do 3 and 4 you need to be mindful they are the other way up.

P1050734 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr]

Rings compressed with a ring compressor tool, oil the inside first so it will slide, get it nice and tight

P1050735 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Onto the barrel and then in one swift motion slide it in. (this ring compressor is a bit too long)

P1050736 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Pushed them up and down a few times, if you place them face down on a rubber mat hold the barrel down and push the piston you should feel compression
P1050739 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr