CV Joint Removal

[si macc]

Hi Everyone,

I'm changing the CV boots on the rear drive shaft and managed to get it off the van ok but really struggling to get the joint off the main shaft. I've bought a set of brass drifts but they've bent a bit as I'm having to hit so hard, they're probably not the best quality but all I could find. I've resorted to using a steel one with care but have only got it it to move about 4-5mm so still got a bit to go. It doesn't want to go any further and wondering what my options are next. Is it ok to heat assuming I remove all the grease or will it damage the joint and shaft? Any advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Simon

[Jawin89]

Did you remove the circlip first ?

[itchyfeet]

yep circlip off should be easy, if not it's rusted on, drift it back on and clean splines, then try drift it off again, repeat on and off drifting.

don't fit the washer
also be careful not to let the cv fall appart keep it square al all times

[si macc]

Yeah. First thing I did.

[CovKid]

I wouldn't worry too much about brass drifts. CV joints are fairly robust things as long as you aim right. A few times I've had to whack one off with a blunt cold chisel as close to driveshaft as possible - that'll shift it.

[itchyfeet]

edited my post^^ drift it back on and then off

[si macc]

The cv joint has already come apart, was going to inspect as I had the drive shaft out so not to worried about that (unless I should be?!). I'll give your method a try tomorrow. Is a vice on a work bench the best way to hold it when hitting it?

[si macc]

Cheers everyone, have a blunt chisel which is actually one of my favourite tools, so many uses. My neighbour thought I had changed career to be a blacksmith

[CovKid]

Worked on all the v-dub models and have various chisels that do specific jobs and I've used for nearly 30 years including a small cranked one I use for shifting star-wheel brake adjusters on neglected beetles. Cold chisels rarely get used but when they do, theres no substitute. Fortunately right opposite where I work theres a market open two days a week where a fella sells second-hand but non-chinese tools for a couple of quid at most. They're great as they don't snap or break and you know they have a history. I nearly always give him slightly more than he asks, basing it on what I think the tool is worth to me!

[itchyfeet]

The cv joint has already come apart, was going to inspect as I had the drive shaft out so not to worried about that (unless I should be?!).

Good luck putting it back together
took me hours, ideally need three hands, I'm sure these is a knack.

[si macc]

Joy. This weekends activities sorted then!

[itchyfeet]

its also possible to assemble wrong, I know because I did it, I was so pleased until I rwalised
luckily I noticed it was locked square before I went too far.

[CovKid]

Unless its a fairly new one, I don't bother trying to reassemble one that has come part. Its because everything ends up not in its original place and the wear characteristics are all messed up then. They tend to wear even faster afterwards. Its OK if you really need to save cash but I think ECP still sell the good ones for about £30 each. If you're going as far as stripping one down its often cheaper in the end to fit brand new ones. No one really likes doing them. Worth cleaning them and checking the contact faces though.

[a1winchester]

Looks a bit like a Rubik's Cube to me, but there are some Youtube Videos showing how it's done, like this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meTNBph3rUU
He re-assembles just before 7 minutes in.

[CovKid]

Its a 50/50 scenario really. It'll either go together and be locked solid or it'll go together and move normally. The kits never have enough grease with them either. Needs close to double whats supplied. Halfords sell tubs of the black stuff for about £7 - about the only thing I ever buy from Halfords. The fun part is putting everything back on the vehicle without ending up with an ear full of grease. All good fun - not

One good tip though. Well worth really cleaning up the shafts and painting them (except splines) with a Hammerite-type paint. It makes handling them much less unpleasant in the future and it does seem to last. I used rustoleum as thats what I had handy.