Flywheel timing mark confusion

[keytouch]

1.9 diesel normally aspirated engine using the original flywheel and clutch from the 1.6D cs that I took out.

I can't see any marks on the actual flywheel but it does have a raised metal edge bolted on? Not sure if that's part of the clutch housing or not.
Anyway, this does have timing marks on, but I have no idea which is meant to be what. Need to find TDC as I don't think it is lined up properly with the cam shaft.

The picture shows a diagram of the rim viewable through the bellhousing inspection hole. I've done a top view and side view.
There are raised lips (for timing tool?), holes, a peg and a notch. I don't know which is meant to be which.

Any help interpreting would be greatly appreciated. Van is currently off the road until this is sorted.

[Aidan]

I think the notch between the two ridges is the timing mark and should line up with the pointer in the viewing hole in the bellhousing, but I don't have diesel manual to hand to double check and I don't work on diesels so don't know for absolute certainty
The flywheel only fits the crank in one position and the clutch cover can only be fitted in one position on the flywheel

[keytouch]

Thanks Aidan.
That seems to make sense and you've reassured me with the info about the flywheel and clutch cover only fitting one way.

It would appear that the cam and pump (which are in time with each other) are about 3 or 4 notches on the belt away from the flywheel timing.

It always did sound like a bag of spanners even before the timing belt jumped.

[ELVIS]

Yarp. Notch on pressure plate Deffo lines up with pointer on bell housing.

Notch on back of cam should be inline with back of head ( DONT have a locking plate attached to cam while you tighten/slacken cam wheel locking nut, it will snap the back of the cam off) and locking pin in injection pump pulley.

If you don't have a tdi to set pump timing/lift , slacken the adjusting bolts on the pulley a tad, start engine, use the palm of your hand or soft faces hammer to GENTLY tap pump towards the head.

With your best listening ears on, listen for the engine tone to start 'knocking'. At the point it starts knocking, tap it a smidge towards the battery tray/header tank. You want the spot just before it starts knocking. Zip bolts up.

Doing it by ear isn't perfect but when you get a Dti on it, it will always be within .9-.95. Usually closer to .95.