The Superboxer, a new heart for the Silver Bullet

[silverbullet]

Thanks for the offer It's not really a complex job, more a case of removing a lot of volume in a series of large pockets and drilling some holes.

Having a bit of bother getting a price for either a cut slab 13" x 16" or a piece of 16" round bar at the moment

[DSM]

Try Aluminium Warehouse online but collect from Hatfield as delivery charges are very high. This will be expensive but you may be lucky searching the bay.

[silverbullet]

Thanks for the tipoff We used to buy from Ravenace and the pricing was keen, but they went to the wall recently

[silverbullet]

16" dia x 4.5" blank seems to be coming out at £240 + vat just about everywhere. Cheaper than foundry patternmaking!

I also had a brief chat with one Chris Cole, the go-to-man for matters UN-1, in my quest for the NLA 80 x 43 pinion roller bearing. No joy, but he did give me some tips and free advice.

Found the 85mm dia shims I need for the diff backlash setting (or rather the closest I can find) at http://www.thebearingcompany.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Meanwhile, the business of an electric speedo and machining the case to replace the NLA Renault/Jaeger transducer. I don't know if it works or which wire is which, other than one is an earth and the other two are red and white. The crucial curcuit diagram page on the PDFs avaialable at Matra.dk is blurred...

Ideally I need a transducer that is 12mm dia for ~43mm, then stepping up to 15mm for another 15mm and with a junior timer/Packard plug.

One option is to mod the case to take a VAG speedo transducer aka G22. Anyone got a 012409191D from an B5 transaxle knocking about? One of these might just fit but it is a bit long:
http://forums.kilometermagazine.com/sho ... 501-16885-(DIY-Write-Up" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;!)

Alternatively I was looking at the 1J0919149A which looks to have better proportions but the plug is the later type (also more expensive) but i cannot find the sizes for it.

[Aidan]

why not just run a speed sensor set up on the output flange and use Syncrosport dash then no need to modify anything and you get a more modern VW dash that will give you rev counter and other functions that you probably don't have; worked for me - the speed sensor Andy used is a bit crude but he's now looking at using the cheap ABS ring on CV as someone else has posted up and calibrate the dash to take the 59 teeth input instead of the 4 or 8 tooth one he's been using, but it's nicely accurate and can be used on syncro to get around the mechanical drive and speedo we have, sell your speedo drive to part pay for the dash, there will be someone with a stripped one that wants yours and of course on a syncro speed sensor can be fitted to front inner CV so short wiring to dash

[silverbullet]

I am actually enjoying the challenge of keeping it all as mid/late 80's as I possibly can, bar the wheels and proposed engine management. I have a nice dash that now fits and looks the part without looking like a kit-car abortion, not that Andys work is any such thing! I am just following JFK's speech from Rice University

A fresh discovery thrown up from the proposed new short bell housing:

At ~100mm long it will be a full 25mm shorter than the wbx one and 50mm shorter than if I had put an adapter plate in there. But since the latter wouldnt work because of the starter clearance matter, the shortie brings the transaxle rearward by just enough that...

...I won't have to cut the rear crossmember in the body after all

As per everything on this project its going to be tight, there will only be 5mm or so to play with but clearance is clearance. The driveshafts will have a slight forward slant from diff to hubs, but only 30mm or so which hardly matters on a lowered 2wd bus.

[Aidan]

use early driveshafts then they are longer because the Aircooled transmission was further forward too

[silverbullet]

Its got SA driveshafts and 108 cv's...

[silverbullet]

Come to think of it, the driveshaft angles can't be any worse than that on the 2.6, the diff is well forward of the rear axle line just to get the engine in. This is a similar offset, but reversed.

Anyway, back to this G22 matter...

[silverbullet]

A bit more bellhousing butchery to confirm that will all cram into the 100mm packaging height before committing to the metal for real. There is space to get a good 6mm wall thickness between the crownwheel and clutch cover, with running clearance and that was my big concern.
Hard on its heels is the matter of one bolt being right in line with the clutch release shaft. I think that I can put a csk bolt under there, its the only option so it will have to do!

PS I also got the flipped crownwheel backlash set at a nice 0.16mm (0.12-0.28 range) and the new side bearings preloaded with a somewhat Heath Robinson setup, but it worked!

http://s1103.photobucket.com/user/IanHolman/library/UN1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[silverbullet]

PPS Another happy coincidence: I wanted a 10 tooth trigger wheel for the speedo, and amazingly the crownwheel is secured with 10 bolts that lie on a pitch circle that nicely crossses the existing transducer drilling

[ghost123uk]

PPS Another happy coincidence: I wanted a 10 tooth trigger wheel for the speedo, and amazingly the crownwheel is secured with 10 bolts that lie on a pitch circle that nicely crossses the existing transducer drilling

[silverbullet]

Doing a bit of full-size sketching before getting a proper A1 drawing done, to make sure that it all clears before ordering the slab of ally...

Looks like this BH will be a smidge longer at 105-106, because the clutch release arm and bearing currently has NO free play, not good.

Pics still being added to the PBucket folder...

I have found a chap called Chris Cole who is renowned as "the man" for all things UN1, hopefully he will sell me a few minor spares as 3rd gear baulk ring has worn too close to the shoulder of the synchro cone for comfort (weird that all the others are ok) and the massive 6mm thick hardened washer that takes all the end-thrust from the pinion shaft has a stress crack

Other than that the transmission is ready to go back together, unless I put a couple of tappings in for a cooler... but I don't really think this engine will be in the league where such things are necessary, that's for the 500hp GT40 replica guys

[adyjoad]

Hi Ian, here's some pics of the starter I mentioned yesterday.

http://s163.photobucket.com/user/adyjoa ... /startersk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[silverbullet]

Thanks Ady. Good to see you at Malvern