New distributer needed, vac advance setup?

[blakeys80]

Hi all, we have a 1981 2.0ltr twin Solex CU engine (with cone filters and no orig filter housing) which has a 009 type distributer with no vacuum and all vacuum ports on Carbs blanked off.
After having read all I can find about the topic, I'm
Thinking of changing the distributor to a Vac advance type (such as GSF Pt No 920VG0150 for example).
The ignition module and idle stabilisation modules seem to have been removed/disconnected from the engine bay as well, so my question is, when I do change the distributor over to electronic ignition, how can I re-incorporate the correct wiring from the two new distributor wires, and where do I connect the vacuum line without an original filter box setup -if I can - (I'm presuming the LH carb below butterfly - but not sure).


Im learning as I go, so any help would be greafully received.

Cheers,
Ross.

Sat on a hill in Much Wenlock with a brew

[ajsimmo]

I recommend the Powerspark SVDA dizzy for your setup. You just need to extend the two wires to reach the coil, connect a vac pipe to the left hand carb. Using a timing light and the proper timing scale around the front pulley, set timing to 7deg btdc (with vac disconnected.)
http://www.simonbbc.com/distributors/4c ... a-bosch-vw
Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk

[blakeys80]

Thanks for the helpful reply, I have bought the distributor and timing light and looking forward to getting it fitted.

Cheers, RGB.

[sarran1955]

Hello,

This might help:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkyBAMMHpa4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cordialement,

[blakeys80]

Thanks Sarran,
Funnily enough I watched the video (and part 2) last week,and this morning and thought it was a great aide, I now understand the basics of what I need to do, however a few things I noticed in your video was that I think the No1 cylinder was bottom right (looking at the engine) and in mine it is top right, and also it seems to be that the distributor cap and leads on the one I'm about to replace are 180 out, ie No1 lead is situated and therefore pointing furthest away from No1 cylinder.

I think this may be something to do with it being a 009 type distributer, but as it's my first attempt at timing any engine, I'd like to get it right without seriously damaging anything.

I have lined No 1 cylinder up with the distributor arm and fly wheel to find TDC, and there is a notch on the outside of it which sits dead at 12o'clock underneath the bolt you've used as a measurement point, and I have looked but cant see one on the inside edge.

Would you have any ideas on a some way to remedy any of those issues please? I'd be very greatfull.

Many thanks for the reply too.

RGB

[blakeys80]

Apologies! After looking again and reading my copy of Vanagon Haynes manual, I realise that when the distributor points to front right position of distributor so to speak, this in No1 firing position at TDC (not pointing to No1 cylinder as I was originally thinking ) I will go back and look again this evening for the notch on inside of the pulley.
This still leaves me a bit confused as to why the current distributor is 90° out though, as No1 lead is one position to the left of where it should be looking at the distributor cap.

Cheers,. RGB

[bigherb]

The the No1 position is in different places for different distributors. 009 distributors had to be fitted with No1 a long way off so as not to blank off the shaft lubrication hole. Where number No1 plug lead is on the distributor is not that important.

[sarran1955]

Hello,

I'm glad the vids help..

The first thing is to find the timing notch and mark it..

Then just follow the instructions..

Your old dizzy, not having an advance diaphragm 'can'.. can be twisted any old way about.. as long as the finger is pointing to about tdc.

When you look down into the dizzy drive hole you will see that the machined slot is offset... so is the bottom of your dizzy.. it will only sit one way..

As an aside.. I've just come across a Brit run VW camper hire place in Bergerac, Dordogne .. just T2 aircooleds with 2 litre CU's or CJ's...ALL of them running twin carbs (Solex or Weber) and ALL with Powerspark..

Why.. better reliability and fuel consumption.. (their words not mine)..

You'll get there..

Aircooled Bliss..

Cordialement..

[blakeys80]

Many thanks for the help folks,
I feel more confident now I know more about the task in hand, and a bit less likely to damage the
old girl!
Its all about building knowledge up, and this forum is a great place to learn.
The campers near Bergerac sound very interesting, we holiday not a million miles away most years, and nice to know there using the same product and having good results.
Strangely, the main Powerspark distributor (no pun intended) is only based about 10 mins away from my house, so anything I need in the future I can just pop in!

Thanks again, I'll post a message when I'm all up and running!

Cheers,
RGB

[bigherb]

Strangely, the main Powerspark distributor (no pun intended) is only based about 10 mins away from my house, so anything I need in the future I can just pop in!

You can get also get your coach trimming done at Bromsgrove Auto Trimmers opposite.

[blakeys80]

We desperately need two new front seats (currently tatty ford fiesta things - rubbish!)
I'm keeping my eyes open for some new ones, so I'll keep that in mind bigherb.

Update to my original post, the new distributor is fitted and timing now done, found a small fuel leak on LH carb at the same time, jubilee clips used instead of fuel clips, so will sort that out next, stopped leak for now.

So i started her up for the test run, bit of smoke as I'd accidently spilled oil on top of the heat exchanger when removing rocker cover No1 (really pleased the neighbours ) seemed to be really labouring, gave it a little rev, then it died, and I could hear a gurgling from back LH carb and fuel was still coming through, is this correct?
Wouldn't start, waited 20 mins then started ok, if a but quite fast at idle.
Drove around for a mile or 2, noticed that when I came to a stop the revs were a lot higher than before and didn't come down quickly like before, idling oddly, and I could also hear a distinct 'pop' in the exhaust note, now I'm pretty sure this is fuel/air related (possible something to do with previous dizzy?) so is their any basic simple measures I can take regards carb settings, or would it be best to take it somewhere with a rolling road/ CO2 tester etc?

Cheers, RGB

[bigherb]

No fuel should not come through from the carbs when the engine stops that indicates a faulty float valve.

The carbs may not be set correctly if the butterfly is open at idle the you will get a vac signal at idle to the distributor advancing the timing and idle speed check by pulling off the vac pipe and see if the idle drops.

[blakeys80]

Thanks for the help, sorry about the slow reply, I had a look at the things you mentioned bigherb, there was a very slight drop in revs when I removed the vac pipe (which had no leak) but still got the same prob with fuel coming through after turning off the engine.
As I also have a slight oil leak coming from No 2 Cylinder head, I've popped her into a local garage while I'm away again, as I really don't know where it's coming from.

Thanks again, RGB