Hi
Occasionally when I turn the ignition key, the starter doesn't turn the engine. First happened a month ago - I could hear the starter solenoid click, but the engine wouldn't turn (original post here: https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=152210" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;). After checking the usual connections, earths, battery voltage, oilite bush etc I ended up replacing the starter motor, which seemed to cure the problem.
Then last night the problem recurred, except this time there was no click sound from the starter when turning the ignition key. Boosting the battery via jump leads made no difference. I then tried hot-wiring the solenoid trigger terminal with +12V (from the alternator terminal), and the van fired up straight away, no problems. Today it has started first time every time, and turns over strong.
Seems like I have a problem with the solenoid trigger not getting enough current?? I've got a new ignition switch on order, as they are only a tenner, but I don't think that's the problem. I replaced the solenoid crimp connector again last month. Can the solenoid terminal be modified to get a more robust connection, as it seems a bit marginal even with a fresh connector?
The wire itself has seen better days. Can I splice in a length of new 6mm cable? What's the best way to join thick cable like this - solder and heat-shrink, crimp connector or terminal brick?
I am also considering wiring direct from the battery to the solenoid, via a heavy duty relay. Anyone done this? Good idea?
Cheers
Jim
Re-wire or relay?
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Re-wire or relay?
1990 T25 camper, 2.1 DJ
Re: Re-wire or relay?
Anyone used these solder sleeves?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-30-50x-AWG ... 2050032777" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-30-50x-AWG ... 2050032777" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
1990 T25 camper, 2.1 DJ
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- 80-90 Mem No: 8386
- Location: Nottingham
Re: Re-wire or relay?
Hot start relay kits have been available for years....and there is lots of info to read...the relay ensures high battery voltage to trigger the solenoid.
http://www.justkampers.com/forum/viewto ... 5&t=159855" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.type2.com/bartnik/relay.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread.php?t=463180" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Martin
http://www.justkampers.com/forum/viewto ... 5&t=159855" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.type2.com/bartnik/relay.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread.php?t=463180" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Martin
1989 California 2.1MV
- bigherb
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- 80-90 Mem No: 5789
- Location: West Kent
Re: Re-wire or relay?
Just fit a starter relay the ignition switch only then has to switch milliamps to work the relay rather than 30 amps to work the solenoid.
Mount it here then you can pull through the original red/black wire from the ignition switch to the relay.
The relay does not need to be directly connected to the battery. Take the battery feed for the relay from the starter battery ring terminal the cable run is then very short to minimise any voltage drop.

Mount it here then you can pull through the original red/black wire from the ignition switch to the relay.
The relay does not need to be directly connected to the battery. Take the battery feed for the relay from the starter battery ring terminal the cable run is then very short to minimise any voltage drop.

1982 Camper 1970 1500 Beetle Various Skoda's, Ariel Arrow
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- Joined: 03 Apr 2007, 12:54
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- Location: Nottingham
Re: Re-wire or relay?
Was just going to say in bigherb's pic he uses a quality Ripaults relay and the wiring 'terminated ends' look spot on with shrink wrap etc. I can't emphasise enough about the need for a quality relay and properly crimped or soldered wiring with chassis grommets to prevent chaffing through the wires..good job.
Martin
Martin
1989 California 2.1MV