Cooling problems

[pjjones00]

I have a 2.1 wbx engine 1983 water cooled fuel injection.
When I drive my van I have no problems but when it ticks over or I get stuck in traffic the water bubbles up, over heats and comes out of the header. I have been told the cooling system is blocked and needs replacing. Can I flush this using a product? Or does it needs replacing?

[itchyfeet]

could be a blocked rad or a faulty thermostat not opening fully.
does the fan kick in, if not could be that is the fault
idle it until it is hot or after a run and feel the temperature of the hoses to and from the rad.

[pjjones00]

I have ran it idle and the water bubbles up after ticking over for a bit. When I drive it, it is fine.The radiator kicks in fine too.just drove 3 hours with no problem until it is ticking over stationery. I believe there is a blockage but can I just flush it?

[itchyfeet]

sounds odd because if the rad was blocked then it would over heat when driving, as more heat is produced.

unlikely you would flush a blocked rad I think , best to replace if thats the problem, as I said check if both sides of rad are the same temp when hot standing idling.

also check pipe from right hand head at rear, bypass hose and metal pipe by crank pulley to see if any are cooler than others

[Da dan]

Please post when you find out as sounds very similar to the problem I have. But I do have a small leak on the metal pipe being fixed tomorrow. Hopefully!


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[pjjones00]

Thanks for the help itchyfeet. Da dan let me know how yours goes. I'm still none the wiser on mine. I will look at the radiator when i get chance.

[MGP]

Have had a couple of customers vans where the radiator is partially blocked to the point that they flow enough to cool the engine but don't flow much coolant around the fan switch so it doesn't get a true reading allowing the engine to overheating before the fan cuts in.
My opinion is that if the radiator is the original then it would be a good move to replace it

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[California Dreamin]

No mention of the pressure cap?
A faulty cap won't allow the coolant to pressurize (as it should) so the coolant will start to boil at 100C (under pressure boiling point is raised closer to 120C) A faulty cap will also result in the expanding coolant overflowing in to the top-up tank even at moderate engine temperatures. Of course that's what it should do when pressure exceeds the caps 'blow point' but not all the time.
If you have a 'Darlek' style cap, suck and blow through the pipe...it should make a 'quaking' noise one way and be a complete 'block' the other.

Martin

[Da dan]

I've just had the small leak fixed, changed the thermo, water pump, cap and other things but the van in my opinion is still running hot as it gets to temp after 5mins. Fan works ok etc so guess next is radiator as return pipe seems colder. But just done 1200 miles to Lake District and back and purred like a thirsty oily pussy but luckily no traffic. So no real trouble (luckily). New rad here we come


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[California Dreamin]

but the van in my opinion is still running hot as it gets to temp after 5mins. Fan works ok etc so guess next is radiator as return pipe seems colder. But just done 1200 miles to Lake District and back and purred like a thirsty oily pussy but luckily no traffic. So no real trouble (luckily). New rad here we come

The purpose of the thermostat is to promote the 'rapid' warming of the engine...in other words, block the main coolant from the radiator off and prevent it being introduced UNTIL, thermostat temperature is reached. The fact that the engine gets to running temperature after 5 minutes is a good thing.

So what is it? QUOTE 'running hot' or gets up to temperature after 5 minutes ...there is a difference....are you saying the temperature goes higher on the gauge...2/3rds across? or just gets to 'NORMAL' running temperature quickly?

Martin

[Da dan]

It gets to 2/3rds or normal. But example. The other day went out on a not overly hot day got about 1mile down the road in flowing traffic and the fan kicked on when I stopped at the lights??? Just a bit sheepish as broke down last time I hit hard traffic and didn't start again till the morning.


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[California Dreamin]

Morning...a 1 mile journey and the fan kicking in at traffic lights does sound slightly premature but I'm still uncertain of the exact circumstances i.e. how long had the engine being running for etc.

The fact that the fan is kicking in means that hot coolant (coolant that has reached the 87C on a two speed) has reached the switch (lower right hand side of the radiator, as you stand in front of it) It could be that the radiator veins are partially blocked, difficult to say. There might not be a fault at all! but usually it takes quite a bit more than a mile of driving to bring the fan on.

Martin

[kevtherev]

I can see what Martin is saying here.
Your temp gauge is on the thermostat housing and measures the temp of the coolant from the engine during warm up then as the stat opens and the directly circulating coolant is restricted it begins to measure coolant from the radiator.

The hot coolant from the engine meets the fan switch first, then continues around the rad.
It says to me that the stat is not opening either enough or the temp setting for the stat is incorrect

[Da dan]

When I flushed the system the coolant coming out from it was quite murky meaning there was quite rubbish in the system and the veins in the radiator have just filled up with general rubbish. Granted it could be set at the wrong temperature but it it is working perfectly fine when travelling and cold.


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[Da dan]

The vehicle had been driving for no more than about five mins eight maximum


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