Quick (hopefully) question re bleeding coolant

[Ecopod]

Quick summary.

Been very lucky to date and had no coolant/over heating problems. Then noticed I had to start topping up after med - long runs, then steam appearing from grill in rear quarter. Traced problem to a tiny split in the 'S' shaped hose that obviously got worse as heat/pressure built up. Changed pipe without an issue (other than breaking one clip and replacing with jubilee and only getting the other clip three quarters into place - obviously a technique to them I do not posses). Anyhow I managed not to lose too much coolant so went with a topping up and bleed.

I ramble on but here is the issue:

I went with the top up / run / open radiator bleed bolt technique but as soon a I started engine I couldn't remove the expansion tank cap without water gushing out even when cold, so topped up and put cap on, then no matter how hot the engine got nothing came out of the radiator (no air/bubbles/water). Went for a longish run and van heated up to normal temp no problem but same again, nothing out of bleed bolt.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

[itchyfeet]

It will virtually bleed itself if you just lost a small ammount
dunno why nothing from screw maybe you didn't undo it enough, maybe its cross threaded and now tight

I'd leave the screw and just top up darlekcap tank after each run until it is brimmed.
put heater slider on full blast

[Ecopod]

Cheers itchy feet I will do (it didn't loose anything on the run afterwards). Took bleed bolt all the way out but nothing.

[itchyfeet]

if you took bleed bolt right out and nothing came out the you have a huge airlock or something is very wrong.

start engine
darlek cap off rev to 2000 rpm
top up until you can get mo more in cap on as soon as it starts to overflow
get it hot
let it cool down
repeat

[Ecopod]

Ah okay not so good then.

With dalek cap off, as soon as engine starts collant/water is forced out of tank, thinking huge airlock then

[itchyfeet]

or failed combustion chamber seals
hopefully not but a possibility

start engine then remve cap at idle, does coolant spurt out?

[Ecopod]

Thanks for taking the time to answer (again )

Started van, let it tick over, removed dalek cap and no spurting out.

[Ecopod]

Meant to add but forgot - when I went out for a run there was no loss of power or any noticeable issue at all

[itchyfeet]

Thanks for taking the time to answer (again )

Started van, let it tick over, removed dalek cap and no spurting out.

ok so its the starting and revving that does it

Start
rev to 2000 rpm place brick on accelerator don't rev.
remove cap and fill until no more goes in repace cap bleed

[itchyfeet]

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/bleed ... 29710.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Mocki]

At Tickover , if you fill the header tank to the brim, it will spill out , but if you then increase the revs to about 2k the water pump takes it away faster and you can get another 3/4 of a litre in , the put the cap back on before letting the revs off ! Let it warm up ,increase the revs back up to 2k then undo the bleed screw just two or three turns , either air or water should come out ....

[Ecopod]

Yep, just seems to be when it heats up - which I can understand with the heat/pressure but I assumed removing bleed bolt would mean pressure would divert to this hole (if that makes sense) - something is stopping air/water/everything getting to bleed bolt hole

Thanks for link - it is one of the ones I read before choosing bleeding method. I have front of van higher than rear, but only because my drive is like that.

[Ecopod]

Thanks Mocki, I'll need to leave it till tomorrow morning now which is probably better as I'll have a helper then.

Thanks again and I'll report back.

[CovKid]

Make sure heater controls are set to full as well. That helps.

I've never had to raise the vehicle as prescribed by some either. As said, it bleeds itself really although the bleed bolt needs to be undone a fair way.

[slowcoach]

Its keeping the revs at a very noisy 2000 ish which forces the air through. It can be a bit unnerving and annoying for any neighbours no doubt. You get the technique down after a few goes, leaning over the engine bay, one hand on the throttle body keeping it open, the other unscrewing the darlek cap, then reaching for the new antifreeze bottle, slop more in, screw cap back on, let go of throtttle aaand relax as the mighty noise ends

That's how I do it anyway