what2do wrote: Can anybody help narrow down my search in advance, which/what wires should I be looking (hoping) to find loose?
Plug D terminal 15 the same plug as last time.
Oh come on Herb, you know that means squat diddly to me!!! Last time? What last time? Have I been here before? I know I've a head like a sieve but I'm sure I'd remember that
Seriously, what/where is plug D terminal 15 within the back of the fuse box? Will it be a black wire similar to that at the coil? If so, that'll narrow things down as there are so many pretty coloured wires under there
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?
what2do wrote:
Oh come on Herb, you know that means squat diddly to me!!! Last time? What last time? Have I been here before? I know I've a head like a sieve but I'm sure I'd remember that
You have got a short memory, what did you PM me about in April.
1982 Camper 1970 1500 Beetle Various Skoda's, Ariel Arrow
what2do wrote:
Oh come on Herb, you know that means squat diddly to me!!! Last time? What last time? Have I been here before? I know I've a head like a sieve but I'm sure I'd remember that
You have got a short memory, what did you PM me about in April.
That was to do with my electric mirrors - wasn't it???
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?
what2do wrote:
Oh come on Herb, you know that means squat diddly to me!!! Last time? What last time? Have I been here before? I know I've a head like a sieve but I'm sure I'd remember that
You have got a short memory, what did you PM me about in April.
That was to do with my electric mirrors - wasn't it???
No the fact you lost a lot of electrical circuits after you pulled the fusebox about.
1982 Camper 1970 1500 Beetle Various Skoda's, Ariel Arrow
That was me fitting the electric mirrors. Thus was when I realised the problem of not being able to lower the fuse box. I didn't understand the info then and don't now!! Am I looking for a black wire (I assume and accept there may be several)? Ta.
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?
so several pages several posts and it was what I told you to do on the phone on day1, you reported it spluttered with the bypass wire you just did'nt persist or your bypass wire was bad
Last edited by itchyfeet on 08 Jun 2016, 07:15, edited 1 time in total.
itchyfeet wrote:Fusebox connector letters in Bentley
does it run on lpg petrol or both?
so several pages several posts and it was what I told you to do on the phone on day , you reported it spluttered you just did'nt persist or your bypass wire was bad
I did try, loads of times and there just wasn't the spark. Which is what I'm finding very bizarre at this moment.
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?
itchyfeet wrote:Oh the things we do for 'the look'
When you say 'the look', do you mean the ability to see behind the vehicle? Don't forget, you have side windows...
Feeling very relieved. Will poke around the fuse box today, although I bet you're thinking I'll run around with the temporary wire for months just like I did with the wooden batten in the engine bay
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?
bigherb wrote:You can see it cut in here on my rig after I reconnect the green wire the test light is dim for a second then brightens when the current limiter cuts in. The current limiter is often the part that fails in the amplifier causing no spark, if you test the coil voltage both sides and the -1 side stays low voltage then the amp is knackered. A 12v test lamp is easiest (everybody should have a 12v test lamp in there kit).
Just to make sure I understand this - when you turn the circuit on at 17 seconds in, your test light is dim for a moment because most of the current flows to earth through the grounded Pin 1 wire, but a split second later the current limiter cuts in causing much more of the current to then flow through the lamp, making it bright.
I had my lamp wired differently, i.e. in circuit between pin 1 and the green wire, so if I could get a helper to turn the key for me I should see my lamp light up for as long as yours was dim.
"I'm a man of means, by no means....King of the Road!"
they are not spades on the back of the fusebox
special crimps that fit special connectors
If you have pulled them too tight you may have pulled one out or broken a wire internally
multistrand wires each strand breaks in a different place so may show continuity on a meter but not allow current to flow.
one more thing
check the power from coil to cut off valve and choke heater isn't partially shorted to earth
the insulation gets heat damaged and falls off then you have a corroded wire touching earth
If this happens it draws excess current down the black ignition switched 12V eventually burning out the contacts at the weakest point.
Adding a new wire to this from alt could just cause a fire.
