itchyfeet wrote:if you want to measure continuity for a high current circuit use a light bulb not a multimeter
Good point. I made a tester, and even though the resistance between pin 1 and earth was only a few ohms (low enough to make a continuity buzzer sound), when I inserted the tester between pin 1 and the green wire it couldn't carry enough current to make my tester bulb light up. So that confirms it - the default state of the ignition module is open circuit on the green wire.
"I'm a man of means, by no means....King of the Road!"
itchyfeet wrote:multimeters can lie to you because they show continuity does not mean a current can flow
Ah yes, so maybe the default condition of the ignition module is to be open circuit then, but via components that allow a very small current.
The default is closed circuit but the module has a current limiting switch which opens to stop the coil blowing up if you left the ignition on without starting the engine.
1982 Camper 1970 1500 Beetle Various Skoda's, Ariel Arrow
I have always worried about leaving the ignition on without starting.
I thought it would overheat the coil.
I shall not be so concerned any more.
Thanks.
bigherb wrote:
The default is closed circuit but the module has a current limiting switch which opens to stop the coil blowing up if you left the ignition on without starting the engine.
I knew you'd know - I just haven't figured out *how* you know everything yet.
So I guess this current limiting circuit cuts in quite quickly then - by the time I'd turned the ignition key then walked back to the engine bay my test lamp was already out.
"I'm a man of means, by no means....King of the Road!"
kevtherev wrote:I have always worried about leaving the ignition on without starting.
I thought it would overheat the coil.
I shall not be so concerned any more.
Thanks.
Me too - folklore says not to leave the ignition on for fear of boiling the coil, but this open circuit condition will prevent that.
"I'm a man of means, by no means....King of the Road!"
You can see it cut in here on my rig after I reconnect the green wire the test light is dim for a second then brightens when the current limiter cuts in. The current limiter is often the part that fails in the amplifier causing no spark, if you test the coil voltage both sides and the -1 side stays low voltage then the amp is knackered. A 12v test lamp is easiest (everybody should have a 12v test lamp in there kit).
Result. Put some petrol down the carb and it fired up straight away and continued to run. when I turned the ignition off, the engine continued to run until I pulled the temporary feed off the coil. Itchy probably mentioned this but it came as a surprise as I'd forgotten. Feeling confident, I thought I'd try to start it without the temp feed - nothing, several attempts and still nothing, tested for 12v between coil and earth - 0V. So, need to trace why I have no live feed coming from the front of the van. Best place to start?
Many thanks thus far.
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?
what2do wrote:Result. Put some petrol down the carb and it fired up straight away and continued to run. when I turned the ignition off, the engine continued to run until I pulled the temporary feed off the coil. Itchy probably mentioned this but it came as a surprise as I'd forgotten. Feeling confident, I thought I'd try to start it without the temp feed - nothing, several attempts and still nothing, tested for 12v between coil and earth - 0V. So, need to trace why I have no live feed coming from the front of the van. Best place to start?
Many thanks thus far.
Check you fusebox plugs again.
1982 Camper 1970 1500 Beetle Various Skoda's, Ariel Arrow
bigherb wrote:You can see it cut in here on my rig after I reconnect the green wire the test light is dim for a second then brightens when the current limiter cuts in. The current limiter is often the part that fails in the amplifier causing no spark, if you test the coil voltage both sides and the -1 side stays low voltage then the amp is knackered. A 12v test lamp is easiest (everybody should have a 12v test lamp in there kit).
what2do wrote:Result. Put some petrol down the carb and it fired up straight away and continued to run. when I turned the ignition off, the engine continued to run until I pulled the temporary feed off the coil. Itchy probably mentioned this but it came as a surprise as I'd forgotten. Feeling confident, I thought I'd try to start it without the temp feed - nothing, several attempts and still nothing, tested for 12v between coil and earth - 0V. So, need to trace why I have no live feed coming from the front of the van. Best place to start?
Many thanks thus far.
Check you fusebox plugs again.
I've yet to check them!! I mentioned earlier about the problem with my fuse is and did wonder if this may be the cause. Basically, I can't lower my fuse box more than an inch (I've fitted Maestro headlamps, resulting in the loom being pulled tight through the bulkhead. Last week, I was feeding wires down the A-post and wondered if this may have dislodged something which resulted in my running problem a few days later.
I can see what task tomorrow is going to be. Can anybody help narrow down my search in advance, which/what wires should I be looking (hoping) to find loose?
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?
Sat here with a brew in a light mood of relief and it dawns on me that I've checked everything in the engine bay (incorrectly at times but I've yet to confess to what I did wrong yesterday regarding the coil), altered nothing yet I now have a healthy spark and the engine runs. This morning, I didn't have a spark, 0V at the dizzy plug and couldn't get any output from the King lead. Is this not a bit odd?
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?
