Testing hall sender - idiot's guide

[what2do]

Well, is there one that's been written up already? I'm certainly in need of one!

Thanks.

[itchyfeet]

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=135487" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

quick search for you...

[bigherb]

Simples.
Remove the centre HT lead from the distributor and hold it about 5mm away from a metal part of the engine or bodywork and away from the fuel system.
Remove the three pin plug from the distributor and probe a piece of wire into the centre pin of the plug.
Switch on the ignition and then scrape the other end of the wire along a metal part of the engine this should then produce sparks from the HT lead.
If you get sparks then the rest of the ignition system is OK and the hall sensor is at fault. If you don't get sparks some other part of the ignition system is at fault.
Before you replace the sensor check there is more than 5 volt across the two outside pins of the three pin plug.

[what2do]

Simples.
Remove the centre HT lead from the distributor and hold it about 5mm away from a metal part of the engine or bodywork and away from the fuel system.
Remove the three pin plug from the distributor and probe a piece of wire into the centre pin of the plug.
Switch on the ignition and then scrape the other end of the wire along a metal part of the engine this should then produce sparks from the HT lead.
If you get sparks then the rest of the ignition system is OK and the hall sensor is at fault. If you don't get sparks some other part of the ignition system is at fault.
Before you replace the sensor check there is more than 5 volt across the two outside pins of the three pin plug.

That's the kind of guide I like

Thank you, I'll go and test it now.

[itchyfeet]

If you don't get sparks some other part of the ignition system is at fault
or you have done the test wrong

Fixed that for you

[what2do]

Not festering any voltage across the two end terminals of the plug (detached from the dizzy), still went ahead and tried the a wire from the middle terminal but no spark from the coil. What next?

[bigherb]

Check you actually have power to the ignition system.
Check you have 12V at the + 15 terminal at the coil, crank the engine over check you have near 10V or above
Check the brown earth wire from the ignition module is connected the the engine and is making a good connection.

Do you have an idling stabiliser fitted?
One of these.


If you have remove plugs arrowed and connect them together.

[what2do]

Check you actually have power to the ignition system.
Check you have 12V at the + 15 terminal at the coil, crank the engine over check you have near 10V or above
Check the brown earth wire from the ignition module is connected the the engine and is making a good connection.

Do you have an idling stabiliser fitted?
One of these.


If you have remove plugs arrowed and connect them together.

No I don't have an idling stabiliser. Where is + 15 terminal on the coil? Thanks.

[bigherb]

No I don't have an idling stabiliser.

Good that makes checking easier then.

Where is + 15 terminal on the coil? Thanks.

It should be the one the black wires are connected too, but it is marked on the coil next to the terminals the other terminal is -1 with the green wire. Check the wires have not been fitted the wrong way round it will still work but you will get a weaker spark.

[what2do]

No I don't have an idling stabiliser.

Good that makes checking easier then.

Where is + 15 terminal on the coil? Thanks.

It should be the one the black wires are connected too, but it is marked on the coil next to the terminals the other terminal is -1 with the green wire. Check the wires have not been fitted the wrong way round it will still work but you will get a weaker spark.

Thanks, you've probably noticed that I've got 2 posts running concurrently. I hope this doesn't confuse the issue. Off to check the coil now.