water leak

[silverbullet]

Sounds like you have it covered! I have returned to a cycle commute to work. Only 4.5 miles each way on the towpath but thats 45 miles a week of free fitness and clean air

Sent by Morse code from the bunker

[CovKid]

The hill each way would kill me

Good thing to do though. It only occurred to me when I got the car, that I haven't owned one since the 90s so it took some adjusting to - that and the lack of birds chirping. Could hear them in the camper - hear zilch in the Smart. Other than that, the journey each way can be bumper to bumper so left it completely auto which takes the sweat out of it. I do like the acceleration though - goes like a rocket if you floor it.

[NicBeeee]

I have just sold my smart roadster after 7 years of fun, decided it was too much grief to have to keep removing the passenger seat every time I went mountain biking with friends . Best car I have ever owned and a doddle to service. Sold it with 110,000 on the clock and the engine was pulling as new with the same emission readings and mpg as new. Only put new tyres on it because they were too old and the only thing I had to change in seven years was two front springs (so easy to change a 5 year old could do it), rusty engine sump and a front discs set. Plenty of hints tips and info on evilution.co.uk


Also keeping on topic, if you are removing your rear engine mount then you might like to try the de rusting putting it in a bucket of black treacle method, also on evilution.co.uk

[CovKid]

Yep, think I bought the right car. Brilliant for urban driving and enough boost to get out of trouble. Tried a couple of times this week to manually change the gears which makes for slightly better gear changes but I soon went back to auto mode. Working on the camper is a real pleasure now as everything is more leisurely.

Weather permitting I'll get the engine support off tomorrow as it makes it easier to work on bottom pipe.

[mbcamper]

When I was checking my oil pump, I found it quite easy to remove the long pipe at the water pump. From there you'll be able to get at the short length of hose.

I was looking at your photograph of the score marks from the main pulley and then went to look at my van. Your engine must be sitting about 1" or more too low for that to have happened; good job you have new mounts the old ones must have something wrong with them!

[CovKid]

Yep - collapsed is the best description.

[CovKid]

Right, problem is clear even if more problematic. The two bolts that go through the cast part affixed to engine mount bar and engine casing, have sheared off - more or less flush with engine. That would explain why the pulley wheel was scraping the mount bracket. I would think the only solution then is to lower engine and try and get these out somewhow. Tensile steel though. Might be possible to chase them out with a punch (if I'm lucky) or it'll be drill time (last resort).

It also looks as though long section of water pipe that sits behind pulley has (as a result) suffered wear at the bottom underside through friction, and this is where the leak may be coming from (not the connecting hose. The pipe itself is otherwise in good condition so a weld may sort that.

[mbcamper]

Mystery solved!

If the bolts have snapped, can you just remove the entire engine carrier leaving the engine in place resting on a jack?

I didn't have snapped bolts, but I removed the engine carrier in it's entirety to get at the oil pump recently. The engine was supported on a trolley jack protected with some wood.

With the engine carrier out of the way you might be able to get the old bolts out without removing the engine. A stud remover might work, but you may have more success if you can weld a nut on what is left of the bolt. Either that or careful drilling.

[CovKid]

Aye, both courses of action a possibility. I guess the bolt ends are unlikely to be against a stop inside casing so they might just chase out. Yes have engine carrier off, just supping tea ready for round 2. No way to do this job except properly - including new bolts.

[CovKid]

Slow business but chased the bits of bolt left in with a punch and lump hammer (all three bolts snapped!). Water pipe needs welding up.

No joy on the bolts locally, 80mm was longest they had and I need 2 x 90mm high tensile bolts to match the originals. Toolstation do 100mm ones so will grind them to correct length. Part 47374 - 10 for £2.03. Bargain.

Aidan corrected me - correct length is 85mm - what a stupid size.

[mbcamper]

For the pipes have you seen you can get these:

https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/type25- ... -82-07-92/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/type25- ... block-t25/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Stainless steel replacements.

[CovKid]

Existing pipes in very good condition. The only thing that ruined the longer one was friction wear on the bottom underneath, making the pipe wafer thin until it had a pinhole leak. Looking at it, I can't see why I couldn't cut the longer one slightly shorter (ie before the damage) and join the two metal pipes using brand new 25mm ID silicone hose (which I've got). Theres easy enough flex in the hose to bridge a larger gap and it would make any future need to replace the hose a doddle. The real test is whether I can route the hose without rubbing on anything down there. Its a tight space.

[CovKid]

Short answer is no you can't. Tight tolerances and too much risk of contacting pulley and/or belt. Sourced a replacement pipe this morning. Held up now waiting for ALDI's forever-drying metal paint as I gave engine carrier a good clean and paint. 16 hours to dry but hey ho, better painted than not.

Decided to make new gaskets for pipe ends from silicone sheet (a repurposed silicone bread tin I picked up cheap somewhere). Stands a high temperature and is easy to cut. Used it several times with great success in the past. Should seal that pipe perfectly.

Ironically, when I came to remove engine mounts from carrier there was absolutely nothing wrong with them (two years old) so will put them back and keep the new ones for a future replacement. Clearly the sheared bolts were the cause and it was the contact between carrier and water pipe that created the leak.

[silverbullet]

Does rather suggest that the bolts were loose (seen this just a few times) and the vibration and knocking has started cracks in the bolts. The engine case has "locking" type helicoils fitted for all three from the factory. Some cases can be quite stiff with good bolts, others can be decidedly easy.
You could always fit 90mm bolts and a couple of heavy washers under the heads

[CovKid]

Pipe repainted, replaced rubber coupling for silicone and nipped everything up. Silicone (recycled bread tin) gaskets worked perfectly for pipe ends - thought they would. Old mounts refitted (good condition), new bolts screwed into engine (the 80mm ones proved sufficient, 18mm of thread in block - worth knowing) and the still-drying repainted engine support bar all in place. Not a drop underneath, no leaks. Phew.

8 litres of coolant, topped off with water. Bleeding went better than expected and despite all the guff, you don't need to raise the front. Top of the radiator is already way higher than engine and the pump soon moves it.

As for my hands, they'll take a week to heal properly