WBX

[itchyfeet]

Nearly forgot the distributor drive spring, found it lurking in a plastic bag

https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/1111052 ... tor-drive/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

P1040733 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

[Mr Bean]

Pure coincidence. The tolerances ranged from +5 to -5 but tbh when using a worn drive gear its only a guide (believe it or not, the alloy gear picks up particles and actually wears the steel one, not the other way round!)
I am always after used cam gears btw...

PS the difficult thing is getting the rivetting done to an acceptable standard. Its a disappearing art.
They are 6mm so resorting to a bolt-on requires M7 × 1 screws, and that makes them a special. Been there, investigated that.

Sent by Morse code from the bunker

A few years ago now I had an Elite rebuild which busted dramatically on the M25 due to the timing gear rivets undoing and breaking the crank case. In fairness they recovered it, honoured the guarantee and gave another two year guarantee after the rebuild. At the time I was told that the rebuild should have included a high tensile nut and bolt modification. Is this so?
CS

[itchyfeet]

Was it an Aircooled CS?

Re cam bolts, most of the aftermarket type 1 Aircooled cams have bolt on gears, the gear wheel is spot faced to allow clearance for the hex heads

been looking at these 5/16 is about M8 I think, 3 off, don't look like left hand threads, anybody got any experience?

http://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Shop_by ... ality.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Shop_by ... t_Kit.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[weimarbus]

yep 5/16ths -M8 3/8ths- M10 as far as I remember. Scat c25 cam in the buggies DG is recycled from my old 1835cc air cooled and is three bolts, normal right hand thread

[weimarbus]

P.S. thought you had gone to France

[itchyfeet]

So I wonder if it may be better to consider 4x 5/16 screws into a WBX cam rather than M7.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... sc&start=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I wonder what most people are doing in WBX when fitting cams, not many people sharing their experiences of gear swapping and how/who.

PS they have le internet in France
PPS I'm not in France

[silverbullet]

Not many people "rebuilding" wbx full stop.
If you increase the bolt size it may well break out the side of the cam gear flange, they are pretty close to the o.d. anyway.

Sent by Morse code from the bunker

[itchyfeet]

I will find out tomorrow, got one rivet out today, spent most of the time I had making a jig to fit the pillar drill, it punched out easily once the head was drilled off, will get the other three out tomorrow.

Even though this is a scrap cam, don't think I will drill anything until I have read more.

[silverbullet]

I put the cam on a lathe, held the gear in the chuck and with a running centre turned the back of the rivets off. 2 minute job.

Sent by Morse code from the bunker

[itchyfeet]

We have a lathe but I have hardly used one in 20 years so it's a nice comfortable slow pillar drill for me.
Also be nice to find a solution anybody can do.
1464721356 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

[itchyfeet]

Other 3 rivets out, it's clear there is only room for an M7 and I think you can get a socket on... job for lunchtime

1464764647 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

1464764643 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

[weimarbus]

your jig will work well to keep the tap straight too, just don't get carried away and switch the drill on , been there done that

[itchyfeet]

deffo can't get it on wrong as SB said...

1464777267 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

[itchyfeet]

Cam gear drill 6.8mm (M8 tapping drill) nice and snug on the M7 thread.
I found an 11mm Draper socket that just fits, some don't

So it's possible but If it's strong enough is yet to be proven.

Thanks to SB for the idea and Aidan for the bolts :ok

1464784144 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

1464784149 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

loads of space :lol:

P1040745 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

[silverbullet]

Good work! A high-strength screwlock feom loctite/bondloc should do the job. You could always stake the back of the bolts for extra security.

Sent by Morse code from the bunker