Temp Guage on 2.1MV (with 1.9 ancillaries)

[DoubleOSeven]

My temp needle used sit in the lowest digit so I swapped the thermostat out with a new one from Brickwerks. Now the needle sits between mid and high. I was hoping to have it at 12 o'clock/mid-point. Does this now reflect the true operating temperature of the engine? What does yours sit at?

Fan still kicks in ok but I guess it'll need much more of that in the future.

I don't have an oil cooler fitted at present.


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[Aidan]

chances are the gauge read low because of a poor contact on the wiring (inverse resistance scale) and because you have disturbed the connection while changing the tstat you now have a lower resistance hence a higher reading gauge - it should sit 1 needle width either side of the led in a perfect 30 year ago world, if the fan is still kicking in in the same way then that's good but unless you are getting to full temp and then sitting in traffic it shouldn't be coming on at all much, though if you have the thinner 1.9 rad then it will cycle the fan more than a 2.1 rad would

[DoubleOSeven]

Cheers Aiden. I like the 'perfect 30 year ago World.' In truth, it is sitting one needle width past the LED.


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[itchyfeet]

Did you ever fit the oil cooler Martin?
Golf VR6 thermosat is a lower temp rating, I fit one in mine in summer because it gets stinking hot on the run through France.

[DoubleOSeven]

Paul, the thermostat had 87 degrees stamped on it. I had another one with 80 stamped on it but couldn't remember buying it, i.e. Couldn't guarantee it was good.

I fitted the oil cooler but then removed it, as it did not have a thermostatic sandwich plate and I didn't want goo instead of oil in the engine.

Brickwerks said, "
Hi Martin,

Anywhere around the LED is normal to be honest.
So I wouldn't worry too much.
It could be that you could get a more central reading by replacing the temperature sender, depends how worried you are about it being central.

Regards
Michael "

Google says:
<Internal combustion engines operate most efficiently at relatively high temperatures, typically above 80°C - 85°C (176°F - 185°F). Wear on the moving parts is reduced and thermal efficiency is increased by operating at this temperature.>


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[itchyfeet]

perhaps fit a standard oil cooler then
I'd say a 2.1 needs something to cool the oil even my DG can get silly oil temperatures in summer
I'd fit the VR6 stat as a mimimum

I think that google extract means oil temp

nobody with a T25 can care about efficiency surely

[DoubleOSeven]

According to the spec. the 1.9DG (and probably my 2.1MV Frankenstein) with Pierburg 2E3 should operate at an oil temp of 80C. So a thermostatic oil filter plate and cooler is required, as you say.


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[marlinowner]

I would say you want oil at around 100deg, 80deg is at bottom of acceptable range.

[DoubleOSeven]

Really, oh that's good then. It's been around the 80-100C mark, depending on right foot. Honestly, I can see why they call them worry gauges!!


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[itchyfeet]

Really, oh that's good then. It's been around the 80-100C mark, depending on right foot. Honestly, I can see why they call them worry gauges!!


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It's not summer yet, when I take mine to France and it's loaded going up long hills is when it's needed.

[DoubleOSeven]

...and should really take the reading from the high pressure switch location rather than the pressure relief valve, it's a bit hotter up there near the bearings.


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[DoubleOSeven]

I've got a loaded van trip this weekend, I'll monitor it. I'll probably fit a thermostatic plate tbh, as the 12 row cooler is already fitted. The engine will probably outlast me, but I do like to meddle.

[DoubleOSeven]

Oil temp maxed at 104C and stayed there on the motorways @ 65-70mph. Dropping to 100C on A roads.


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