T25 2L Aircooled, time for a new exhaust

[mrbodly]

Hi all

The van is due an mot and the exhaust is now past it. I've patched it up several times but now it's beyond that.

I would like to keep the stock heating setup, JK appear to be the only place to buy heat exchangers. Does anyone know if they are any good? Also is there a way to prolong the life of them, I was thinking I could Hammerite them.

I was thinking of going stainless for the silencer. JK do this:

http://www.justkampers.com/vw-t25-parts ... -1983.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Link doesn't appear to work on the forum, although works elsewhere. Anyhow, here is a pic:

image.jpg

Has anyone had one, what is the quality like?

Cheers
Myles

[paperhouselad]

I would hold on a bit before buying, as better informed folk on here will give you advice on what to get and where from. Cheers.

[mrbodly]

Anyone with any advice on what to buy and where from? Are JK best avoided?

Both silencer and heat exchangers are shot.

[lefty67]

Have you tried these
http://www.coolairvw.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
new heat exchangers are pricey.
or better still
https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/t ... parts.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[bigherb]

Heat exchangers there is only one maker JP, they are not that bad though, Not as good heat output as the original exchangers but not bad. As everybody sells the same ones it is just a matter of finding the best deal, I use B&B components, use their ebay add as the fitting kit and gaskets are included and free P&P.
The original exchangers have much better fins and insulation.

Compared to the pattern replacements.


Unless your feeling lucky don't try to undo the exchanger nuts on the cylinder head they will more likely shear the studs. Use a cold chisel to split the nuts like this. I prefer to replace the exchangers with the engine out and tipped up.


The Original exhaust box is a very good design some of the performance exhausts can be worse. Since the original manufacturer Leistritz stopped making replacements there are only JP and Ernst making them. JP are thinner metal last from 2 to 5 years, Ernst are better quality and last 4-7 years depending on how you use the vehicle.
The original exhaust works like a big expansion box.

[ajsimmo]

How about THIS

and then this...

[mrbodly]

Thanks for the replies, particularly yours bigherb, very informative.

Brickwerks seem to have the best price on the exchangers. Going to save some cash and go for the standard ernst silencer.

Is there anything I can paint them with to make them last longer. Was thinking Hammerite for the exchangers, something heat resistant for the silencer.

[Moonrakers]

Exhausts rust from the inside out - water vapour travels through them all the time and condenses inside leaving sitting water in there, especially with short start-stop journeys, so there is no way to prevent gradual deterioration.

Painting them with high temp paint can't hurt but it's more for the visual appeal than anything else and it does tend to need re-doing quite regularly as it will tend to discolour and peel or flake.

Mild steel pattern exhausts in general are no where near as long-lasting as the original equipment - mine lasted 27 years (with some patching) before replacement with another mild steel system which I don't expect will last more than 5 or 6 years. I considered stainless - cheaper in the long run - but I was put off by the look and sound of a couple of systems I saw in action, I want the van as original as possible.

Listen to Big Herb regarding the studs - if your exhaust has been on a long time, they are very likely to sheer. You may as well take the engine out and use his method as if breakage occurs it'll have to come out anyway and be sent off to a machine shop to have the studs drilled.

[mrbodly]

Hi all

I had the engine out last year and managed to remove the exhaust with no issues.

Going to soak the studs with penetrating fluid and see how it goes. If any prove to be stubborn I'll chisel them off.

[mrbodly]

Exchangers and manifold gaskets ordered from Brickwerks, Ernst silencer and fitting kit ordered from JK.

Will let you know how it goes.

[sarran1955]

Hello,

You might want to have a couple of spare gaskets and mounting paste in stock..

This is to make life easier when you mount the new system..if you have a big gap, use a second gasket rather than force against the engine..

You will (probably) have this engine out more than once, and you will be surprised how much the exhaust/exchangers 'take up ' with time..

Paint the outer tinware with hammerite (or similar), I use wood stove paint for all the hot bits..

Dont use nylocks..

There are some dinky 11 mm copper nuts available to make things easier..

Oh.. and no matter what you do .. the new tail pipe will work loose or fall off when in the mood..mine fell off in Basel CH..

fits straight back on.. but let it cool down first..

Hope this helps..

Cordialement,

[mrbodly]

Thanks Sarran. Does anyone know the torque setting for the exchangers to block nuts. Don't want to sheer the studs off.

[mrbodly]

Hi all

20nm is the torque setting for the exhaust nuts, found it in Haynes.

Exhaust now fitted, all gas tight ready for the MOT retest.
Van doesn'the sound like a tractor anymore, which I miss. Loads more heat out of the front vents, too hot to touch at motorway speeds.

Old nuts came off no problem with some plusgas. All fitted fairly easily with a little wiggling. New gaskets and copper nuts, sealed with holts exhaust gum.

Anyhow, as everyone likes a pic, old rusty exhaust and nice new one, below.

[bigherb]

Old nuts came off no problem with some plusgas.

I would buy a lottery ticket tonight then.

[mrbodly]

Indeed.

Ordinarily this van fights me every step of the way!

Might have had something to do with the fact I had the engine out a year or so ago to change seals and paint the tinware, I removed the exhaust first.