Fuel Issue?

[300CE]

Fingers crossed for you Ads & looking forward to the update mate

[ads288]

Not having much luck yet.

I bought a the fuel regulator that comes with a gauge - but this gauge isn't working

Tried it out anyway and adjusted the fuel regulator - but still doesn't idle. Will be contacting the seller and seeing if I can get a replacement.

[ads288]

Hi all,

Still not having much luck. I'll keep trying!!!

The gauge seems to be working now. And I have set the pressure to 3psi. A lot of fuel is still coming into the barrels and with engine off - it will build up quite a way but not over the top of the carb when let run for a good few mins.

At a guess I need to check my float level - I had a quick visual inspection previously but will try in more depth. I *think* I need a 12mm clearance - and am planning on following the instructions in this youtube video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WT_CXqG8tn4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Please let me know if anyone thinks Im barking up the wrong tree - or has any others ideas

Regards

Ads

[ads288]

Right another update.

I've reset my float level to 7.8mm and replaced the gaskets in the carb. The floats did lookna little wonky.

It all looked very neat and I was hopeful that I may have made some progress - but now she won't start.

I think it's still fuel related. Am I right in thinking that when I pull the throttle I should see a good spray of fuel down the main barrel? There is none.

Tired with and without fuel regulator and fuel delivery was good.



Any help appreciated, especially if I've missed somwthing obvious.

[ghost123uk]

Am I right in thinking that when I pull the throttle I should see a good spray of fuel down the main barrel? There is none.

Yes you should see a spray from the accelerator pump jet. But a lack of that won't prevent it starting, it would just cause a "flat spot" when you accelerate to pull away etc.

Are you still getting huge amounts of neat petrol in the carb barrel?
I hope not because that ain't good on several levels.
One of them is that the neat fuel can / will get into the combustion chamber and can cause a hydraulic lock, which is not good.
It could also cause a big backfire that could chuck burning petrol out of the carb.
Remember, if your float chamber is full of fuel, that's all you need to start it up. It will run for a couple of minutes off that, even if the fuel pump is disconnected. Consider doing that until you find out what is the problem. You don't want to risk pumping neat fuel into the engine
Oh, and remember, a severely flooded engine will not start.

[ads288]

Hi Ghost,

Thanks for the reply.

"Yes you should see a spray from the accelerator pump jet. But a lack of that won't prevent it starting, it would just cause a "flat spot" when you accelerate to pull away etc."

Thanks - thats good to know.

"Are you still getting huge amounts of neat petrol in the carb barrel?"

Not really getting much (if any) petrol in the carb barrel. I'll get a torch out and see if I can actually spot any petrol! Could be a school boy error on my part .

I will double check the float bowl. Its always been full before, but got to be worth a check again along with all the other ignition bits.

I set my float level in the carb to 7.8mm - as a datasheet I had for the carb had this same level for all the vechicles listed (but not a t25). So wondering if thats the issue.

Remember, if your float chamber is full of fuel, that's all you need to start it up. It will run for a couple of minutes off that, even if the fuel pump is disconnected. Consider doing that until you find out what is the problem. You don't want to risk pumping neat fuel into the engine

- got to be worth a try!

[ads288]

Right. Had a quick gander after work now as the extra hour daylight has permitted more time outside.

No fuel in float bowl.

Plenty of fuel pumps into a small cup when disconnected from carb.

Have I adjusted my float levels incorrectly?

[ads288]

Bad news

I had a mobile mechanic out - we did a compression test and cylinder 3 has no compression

Looks like a need a new engine.

He phoned one of his suppliers - £1390 for a recon 1.9DG with 12 months warranty including water pump and gaskets.

Not sure what to do now - I do love my van but its a lot of cash.

[shepster]

So because you have no compression on 1 cylinder you need a new Engine!

Firstly, get a new mechanic!

Try and find out why no compression, head, valves, rings, jumping straight in with new engines seems a bit drastic.

[ads288]

thanks for the reply. Feel im a bit out of my depth so didn't question much. I've not agreed to anything yet.

its a new mechanic that ive never used b4. he just happened to be mobile - and as I was having problems starting thought it would be a good bet to start with. Was hoping it was just a carb issue

I'll go and find someone to give a 2nd view point. Just a quick question - I guess that if it was something like the rings or similar wouldn't the cost of fixing it labour wise be the cost of a recon engine? (give or take a few hundred).

I *think* my engine was rebuilt in 2010 according to some scraps of paper I have.

[ghost123uk]

Dear oh dear.

Firstly, it's well worth looking into this before even considering a new engine.

I feel duty bound to point out a couple of points =

Firstly, a lack of compression on one cylinder would in no way stop it from firing up, and even driving along, all be it with somewhat reduced power.
Secondly, it's very unlikely to be rings, as, if they were damaged, it would have been making lots of blue smoke the last time it ran.

You do need to firstly double check that it really has got no comp one one cylinder, and also get (and post up here) readings from all 4.
If it is low / zero on one, it would need investigating, but it could be a simple problem.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The non starting is another issue entirely. This thread has got far too long for a simple "not starting" problem. Any experienced mechanic would be able to determine for sure why it's not starting up within 30 minutes max. A simple methodical approach is all that is required. Where abouts are you? I am thinking that either one of us could come over and find out why it doesn't run, or next best thing, recommend a mechanic near you who knows his stuff.

[ads288]

Hi Ghost,

I was wondering if it should still start even with no compression in a single cylinder. Its did not even sound like it was about to get going. Just the noise of the starter.

I'll detail what I think the mechanic did whilst he was here

looked at my carb and adjusted the float.
then after trying to start he tried:

idle solenoid on carb (faulty)
battery level (93%)
spark at plug and coil
looked at distributor
checked spark plugs - mostly all quite sooty
pumped some petrol into a container to look at it. ( v small amount of water present but clear no obvious debris)
put fuel down straight down barrel of carb with fuel pump disconnected - I was hoping it would at least start to run for a minute or so at this point. Nothing.
compression check
checked oil level.

I told the mechanic that I had previously replaced a leaky push rod tube with a telescopic one from bric works. He took the cover off and had a look whilst I tried to start. That checked out ok according to him.

we did try stating with the ht lead off the spark plug off - the single offending cylinder.

Compression result (when using: http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... 244a43.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; )

1 80-90
2 100-110
3 100-120
4 0

Just to confirm, thats 0 compression. Not low.

Im in Lowestoft, Suffolk. I'd love to have someone come round or recommend a good mechanic nearby.

ANY advice welcome and much appreciated.

[ermie571]

stating the bleeding obvious..BUT you have got the leads on right?

[ads288]

Ta.

Will double check first thing in morning.

[ghost123uk]

stating the bleeding obvious..BUT you have got the leads on right?

Yeh, but at you'd get a backfire or kick back. So, frustrating cause all you need is fuel and sparks occurring at roughly the right time and it's got to run! Any half decent mechanic should be able to get that far.
P.s. Sent from the pub