Blue ribbon - calling CovKid.!!

[Smiffo]

Afternoon all.

This thread is for all to contribute if you want - no-one is excluded - although I have one question I know Ralph will be able to answer as he has been there and done it ( so to speak ).

I recently installed a rev counter, and the blue ribbon came with it.
Easy swap out, no major issues except the lights don't work on the new ribbon, and it doesn't have the connectors for my `buzzer of doom.`
( Some may have seen and contributed on my other thread about that. )

This is a problem I don't / can't leave, as I want the protection of the BOD, and the MOT is coming up, so the dash lights need to work....

Now having read the WIKI, there have been several `hard wired` directions taken.
`Easy` I thought, I will copy those diagrams....

Mistake number 1; Thinking it will be easy.
Problem number 3; The WIKI is for the setup without any BOD, rev counter and/or clock....

In fairness the script on there does suggest it isn't a beginners project, but I am not one to give up at the first hurdle, so I bought a veroboard and bits anyway

I have a plan to copy my original blue ribbon with the BOD, use the permanent analogue clock feed to feed an ( future ) LCD clock, and then add the feed for the rev counter after I have got that far.
When I read it, it sounds so easy, but I sat here for a couple of hours with my head up my a*** yesterday

I have drawn out the original ribbon layout but how on earth did CovKid and the others map that onto the veroboard?

If this doesn't work, I may put the old ribbon back in and `add` the wiring `hard wired` style for the rev counter.
I don't really want to go that route though as even my original ribbon is a bit temperamental.

Any thoughts?
How did you plan your veroboard layout CovKid??
So far, two or three hours in, I have managed to get the veroboard out of its wrapping, and draw a circuit diagram - which isn't exactly setting any world records for efficiency, is it..!!??

[CovKid]

Been a few years since I did mine but the trick is to only tackle one track at a time, check it carefully then move on to the next otherwise it will feel overwhelming. In that sense its not so much a circuit as several small ones. The LEDs have to fit through the holes in the bezel so their position is somewhat fixed on the board, although the feed to each one is whatever fits. Veroboard comes in different varieties ofcourse including this type which might make is easier:



Member AngeloEVS who hasn't been on here for a few years, did design a proper circuit board to do it but it can be set out on veroboard ok, scraping away some of the outer tracks to allow you to put the fixing screws through without shorting anything. Thats my best tip really - just concentrate on one part at a time, then move on to the next. You can virtually look at original PCB and just follow each one. The alternative is to buy an expensive kit, but you can do this leisurely over a few nights to be honest. The LEDs will mostly be the same value resistor and thats easy enough to calculate if you have the LED spec:

http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Smiffo]

I had a feeling you would suggest that

I kind of knew what your answer would be before I asked, but went ahead and asked anyway - hoping there would be a cheap alternative.
As it stands, I will take a little look again tomorrow.

Perhaps it is a case of doing one or two circuits at a time, then taking a break before starting again the next day etc....

Cheers Ralph.

[CovKid]

Yep, pretty much, then once you're happy with that bit, move to the next. Just label any flyleads so you know what you've done. The original ribbon is a good source of info to compare. The only difference is that modern LEDs are more efficient and you'll need to use the LED resistor calculator to get the right value resistor but other than that its just a ploddy job - not hard, more time consuming. Never regretted doing mine and I now have extra ways into the dash to add other things. Heck man, if you can do the dash, you can do anything

[Smiffo]

I started mine over the last few days, Ralph.

I tried using a board the same size as the one in the WIKI, but with the BOD there was a bit much to go on and I didn't plan the spacing very well.
Combined with the fact that I burnt the board twice and got the batt/oil lights the wrong way round, I can safely say I made a right pigs ear of it..!!

Anyway - just to update - I ended up with a 2 tier contraption that only needs the plugs putting on now ( I could only get a 20pin molex, so there will be spare ports and I had to re-use the BOD molex pins as they were too small to source new ones. )
If it works ( and I am sceptical ) I will post the wiring diagram I have drawn up for it in PowerPoint to save others time as this has taken hours so far...

Oddly though, mine is quite different to the one in the WIKI. E.G earth is wire 3, clock + is wire 5, High Beam is wire 2 etc etc.
I thought that really strange and kept double checking and doubting myself as I would have thought generic things would be the same across vans.
There is also a 63v capacitor across pin4 for the temp and earth on pin 3...
I am assuming it is something to do with relay 42/43 for the coolant level indicator?

Then I also need to factor in adding the rev counter after this - so need to add in the feeds for that ( that will be easy though now. )

Either way, I think if it works, I will start again and make a good tidied version on one board instead of spread across two. I just need to know I traced it all correctly and that my diagram is OK.

E D I T: Here is the wiring diagram - I thought I would post it now to see if you can spot any obvious errors, although I am yet to add resistor and diode values etc, and the rev counter wiring.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n3w756g9fwdan ... .pptx?dl=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[boatbuilder]

I did this a few months ago but haven't fitted it yet. Planning to use a pc atx connector to connect it all up.

[Smiffo]

I did this a few months ago but haven't fitted it yet. Planning to use a pc atx connector to connect it all up.

Out of interest BB, did your existing ribbon have the same 2u2 63v capacitor between the temp and earth pin?

I have checked, double - tripple - quadple checked, and it's definitely there between pins 3 and 4 on my late van.
No other diagram I can find on the WIKI etc has it though.

At first I thought it was something to do with the buzzer of doom, but it isn't, it's something to do with temp circuit. This leads me to think it's something to do with relay 42/43 and coolant level sensor...

Anyway - I know what you are thinking - I should just copy it like for like and not concern myself with it.
It's bugging me though

[boatbuilder]

Nope definitely no capacitor on mine, just resistors, a diode and a voltage regulator.
Mines a diesel though.

[Smiffo]

Update - after one failed attempt and a burnt board with oil and batt LEDs the wrong way round, I have wired my dash lights directly ( skipping the blue ribbon. )

Now they work as they should - no flickering or intermittent illumination..!

I think I am going to have another go at soldering a veroboard again soon though, just to get my BOD working again.

[CovKid]

Well done! Makes a massive difference completely hardwiring it. I suppose if it came to it, providing everything works, you could hot-glue everything in place and just forget about it. The board isn't critical given that you never see it.

If you want to make your own custom board, there are a few free circuit board apps you can use and you can make them thus:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=efOp15scOyE" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I keep meaning to reproduce the one I made last year but I'll need to add additional tracks to cover all the permutations of dash main boards.