Syncro JX to AFN mTDi swap

[NickBab]

Hi.

I dumped the AFN aux setup and used the Golf mk3 setup instead. This gives a much easier belt run and the alternator etc sits lower on the block so it fits better in the engine bay



A quick update on where I'm up to:

I finished the engine build on the test bed using the AFN oil cooler and mount. The JX mount clashed with the custom engine mount.



I then jacked the van up high and slid the engine in from underneath. Luckily Andy has a recently purchased fork lift making the job much easier.



I replaced the AFN coolant inlet, outlet flanges with the JX flanges so I could reuse the JX sensors and keep the van loom unmodified.



Then made up a bracket so I could reuse the standard accelerator cable and attachment + tension up the cable under the accelerator pedal.



I still need to explore inter cooling further, but this just about brought the build to a close. The air filter etc mounted back straight into their stock locations



Just got back from the first proper test. A 150 mile round trip to the south coast for a bit of wild camping. The van ran great there and back, no more struggling uphill, well chuffed



Nick

[PetenAli]

Nice one Nick! Well impressed with that.

Pete

[NickBab]

Thanks Pete.

I'd also like to say a massive thanks to everyone for their advise along the way.

[footstuck]

Hi mate
I havn't been on the site for a while and have just been reading your thread
Nice write-up
Have you got any further regarding a good site for an inter cooler and type?
Just starting putting engine stuff together for our new caravelle, after the belt slipped on its JX (after 2 months and less than 200 miles after purchase).
Interested in what solution you come up with, as I've only done DOKA TDi conversions and space is at a premium under the lid of the caravelle.
I'm sticking with the LR TDi Pumps so when you've done with that pump, I'd like to be the new owner
The benefits of the electronics are obvious, but I cant get my head around it.
After seeing a well prepared Syncro go into limp mode after wadding, I lost interest.

Keep up the good work mate, keep us posted on fuel return figures
Regards Nick

[footstuck]

Hi mate
I couldn't see if you fitted the clutched alternator
I have been suffering hi frequency power surge (don't know why yet), and it has loosened the crank bolt for the second time due to the lack of a free-wheeling alternator (well that's what i am thinking).
if you don't have one mate I recon its a good investment. The three used engines that Ive bought and fitted didn't have alternators, sob i fitted non-cluthed alternators from under the bench. I had no idea it was an issue till searching for possible causes on the internet.

[NickBab]

Hi Nick,

Sorry I missed your earlier message. Just saw your pm which prompted this response. I'm pretty sure my alternator is clutched. Can't quite remember. I fitted the one off the Golf. Not noticed the bolt working loose, but thanks for the prompt. I better check before driving again.

I fitted a 2nd hand charge cooler I found on eBay. Just the right size to fit behind the rear lights. A radiator fitted up front provides the cooling. I'll try to upload pictures at some point. Seems to work well.

Thanks for the positive comments and good luck with yours.

Nick

[lloydy]

you really do need a clutched pulley on the alternator.. i had one with a seized pulley and the belt is all over the place

[footstuck]

I've been doing a fair bit more research on this free-wheeling alternator pulley and anyone with the non-free-wheeling pulley please take note.
Because of the massive inertia developed when the alternator is spun up to high revs and then rapidly decelerated along with the huge grip of the serpentine belt and gearing, a heaving effect on the crankshaft pulley is created.
With the lack of a Free-wheeling alternator or with the pulley in a seized state, this Inertia coupled with the alternator gearing helps to overcomes the crank bolt security.
Slow but progressive erosion of the locating flat in the back of the crank pulley follows.
This erosion if left unchecked/repaired will cause valve/piston clash
The Free-wheeling pulley only allows the additional serpentine belt load in one direction and prevents the Heaving/rocking effect.
Axman noticing odd smelling exhaust, coupled with a gradually elevating level of exhaust gas temperatures in all engine load conditions over the last 4 months led me to investigate further.
I had done the exact same job on the same engine less than 12000 miles ago, so a deeper understanding of the problem was called for.
This could also be the explanation for a catastrophic engine failure of a fantastic ultra-low mileage engine 3 to 4 years ago .
I have ordered the parts and hope the free-wheeling pulley will be a retrofit to my existing alternator or its off down the scrappy.
Thanks to Pete for confirming the necessity of this part

[NickBab]

Thanks for the reminder and warning. I did have a standard alternator pulley and remember it was on my to do list to sort the tensioner wobble. Ordered a clutched pulley and fitted it tonight. You can see the difference in the video below

http://youtu.be/Q0_6K3B2SGQ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[VirginAtlantic]

Ive just fitted a clutch pully to my AHU MTDI only to discover i need a special tool to torque to 85. So my bus is driveway bound til further notice. I wont mention the GSF "cock" up over supplying their first pully to me which was wrong!

[danielgetsthis]

Thank you for this post. It's very helpful. I'm doing the same job and new to everything. I'm currently getting ready to modify the rear pump bracket just like you did.
Some basic questions:
1. Which tool did you use to cut the thick steel so straight?
2. How did you setup the two pieces to cut at the correct angle? Did you make a jig?

I basically need help figuring out how to cut both pieces perfectly.

Thank you!

[NickBab]

Hi.

From memory, I just mounted the Landy pump using the front fixings and with the rear Landy bracket on then offered up and marked the AFN rear bracket. Nothing fancy and just cut with an angle grinder once marked.

I hope that makes sense.

Good luck
Nick

[SplitBusVanatic]

Well done on a great engine swap and a brilliant write up.
You've given a lot of people a "dummies guide to mTdi'ing"
I'm currently running a Splitty with an afn.
The boost issues and limp mode are enough to drive a man towards your path.
I may follow you yet. Thanks again. All the best.
Dan.

[NickBab]

Thanks Dan,

Splitty with an AFN? Interesting

[SplitBusVanatic]

Typical.
Once I finally decide to go mTdi.
Photobucket decides to do what Kim Kardashian failed to do.
They broke the internet.

Your pictures were a Godsend.
.....Were.