Moving battery to front - cable size help

Post by **dcfb77** » 10 Mar 2016, 13:11

I'm moving battery from engine bay to front seats.

What size cable should I be using. I've got some 25mm which is rated at 170 amps available locally.

Would this suffice?

Electrics scare me and I don't want to get it wrong....

Post by **Mocki** » 10 Mar 2016, 14:52

You don't say what engine, but 25mm 170 amp should be ok.

Why would you move the battery further away from the starter motor and alternator though ?
I moved mine to the engine bay from under the seat to make the starting and charging better and use the space more usefully

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 10 Mar 2016, 16:52

Access I should think Steve, You must admit, its easier to get at via the front (and jump start), even if the run is longer.

Post by **Mocki** » 10 Mar 2016, 17:23

guess so, to be honest i did add switched spur off my starting battery to a anderson connector in the numberplate flap, for jump starting..... but that was for jump starting others from my van !!

Post by **R0B** » 10 Mar 2016, 19:03

I'm assuming its an oilburner.I always thought with them needing more cranking power putting the battery closer to the engine meant less power drop along the length of the wire.

Post by **nicq** » 10 Mar 2016, 19:09

Get some 35mm welding wire and you will not notice the difference in moving it.

Post by **dcfb77** » 11 Mar 2016, 09:43

Thanks for the tip with 35mm welding cable. Will check that out.

Was diesel and now petrol (AGG/GTI) so worried about having battery amongst all that petrol if I ever get rear-ended.

Would also give me room to fit a decent air filter box where battery is now.

Not happy about losing space under the seat as that's where my tools live. Will try to squeeze them in a box above bash plate. So much head scratching...

Post by **Oldiebut goodie** » 11 Mar 2016, 10:24

Worried about being rear ended then sits the battery above the fuel tank!

Post by **Smosh** » 11 Mar 2016, 10:49

Post by **syncropatrick** » 11 Mar 2016, 12:50

Syncro has fuel tank as saddle over the gearbox, not at the front where you lot have 'em.

Post by **Oldiebut goodie** » 11 Mar 2016, 13:28

Didn't see that.

Post by **Mocki** » 11 Mar 2016, 14:13

My battery is in the void in front of the tail light cluster , it does not protrude into the engine bay at all, sits flush with the wall of the engine bay Opposite side to where the diesel battery would be , which is stuck out in the engine bay .

There really is no need to move it all the way to the cab IMHO

Post by **dcfb77** » 11 Mar 2016, 20:29

My concern was for the multiple fuel lines, joints, couplers, etc in the engine bay. That's where I reckon most petrol related fires originate, rarely from fuel tanks themselves as they are pretty solid and cleverly placed (even plastic Syncro ones).

bought 35mm cable (certainly lolls up for the job), bought connectors, now realised I need a much (much) bigger/stronger crimping tool and a battery that actually fits behind front seat.

I do have loads of room for air filter box now at least. Although space behind rear seat will be missed. Ive decided to chop section from front side of seat so I can use storage space directly under the seat, only about 6cm high but any storage is good storage.

My battery is in the void in front of the tail light cluster

You got any photos of that by any chance? Sounds like a good place for it...

Post by **nicq** » 11 Mar 2016, 21:29

If you have a good auto electitian near you he will crimp it. Don't try to solder it welding cable has a mixture of metals and does not solder well. Trial fit for length then take it to him.

Post by **Oldiebut goodie** » 11 Mar 2016, 21:45

It will solder with the greatest of ease - I have never ever had the slightest difficulty in soldering welding cable. What sort of cable is it that you can't solder? Usually welding cable is very high quality copper not a mixture of metals.

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