Hi
I have a 1988 2.1 DJ fuel injection.
Started it about a month ago no problem but tried this week and the fuel pump appears to be dead. (Usually hear it squirt twice when I turn the ignition on.)
Tried a multimeter across the pump wires and from each wire to ground but could only get about 0.2 volts across the wires and nothing to ground.
I assume that there should be a continuous 12 volts at the pump?
Replaced the fuel pump relay with a new one but still no pump. Both relays by the engine appear to click when the ignition is switched on.
Not sure where to go from here? I'm no expert when it comes to electrics.
Any help / suggestions much appreciated.
Thanks.
Rob
Fuel injection pump
Moderators: User administrators, Moderators
-
Winnie Bagel
- Registered user
- Posts: 11
- Joined: 22 Aug 2012, 20:33
- 80-90 Mem No: 0
- Location: Plymouth area
-
Winnie Bagel
- Registered user
- Posts: 11
- Joined: 22 Aug 2012, 20:33
- 80-90 Mem No: 0
- Location: Plymouth area
Re: Fuel injection pump
Hi,
Been on holiday for a couple of weeks but done quite a bit of learning over the last few days.
Now after spending quite a bit of time trying to understand the system and attempting fault finding it I realise how naive my first post was..
I've attempted many of the tests described in the Jetronic manuals etc. and have a bit more of an idea what's going on.
I've tested the pump independently and it runs OK.
There's battery voltage at terminals 85 / 86 of both power supply and fuel pump relays in the engine bay and they both work, but only a couple of volts at best at terminals 30 / 87. This varies from 2.5 volts down to about 0.6 volts at different test times.
About 2.5 volts at the side terminal on the starter solenoid.
0.3 to 0.6 between 7 and 13 on the main ECU and similar between 13 and 25 at the ECU.
I'm a bit unsure when it comes to the ignition control unit because mine's a Telefunken and the manual talks about Fairchild or AEG? I think the Fairchild tests apply to the Telefunken but I'm really not sure??
Hall control terminal 7 to ground is 10.5 volts or 7 to terminal 15 at the coil is only 1.6 volts.
Tested terminal 15 to terminal 1 at the coil and got about 5 volts reducing to zero over a couple of seconds.
Tried exchanging the main ECU for another one but got nothing new.
Swapped the large double relay behind the rear light (second hand part) but that made no difference either.
Done various ground tests at different points but found no problems and also carried out various continuity tests with no issues either.
I'm a bit confused by the Functional Wiring Diagram (page 86 of the Digijet training manual) because it only shows 5 unused terminals at the ECU plug but mine has 9 blanks? Or am I using the wrong diagram??
I've read that this could be caused by the ignition switch but haven't really got around to checking that other than to say that it turns over on the key and all the lights and wipers etc work.
Does any of this ring any bells?? Obviously there should more volts at terminals 30 / 87 at the relays but I'm pretty much at a loss now, other than systematically changing out individual parts with new ones.
Any (polite) suggestions much appreciated. Thanks.
Rob
Been on holiday for a couple of weeks but done quite a bit of learning over the last few days.
Now after spending quite a bit of time trying to understand the system and attempting fault finding it I realise how naive my first post was..
I've attempted many of the tests described in the Jetronic manuals etc. and have a bit more of an idea what's going on.
I've tested the pump independently and it runs OK.
There's battery voltage at terminals 85 / 86 of both power supply and fuel pump relays in the engine bay and they both work, but only a couple of volts at best at terminals 30 / 87. This varies from 2.5 volts down to about 0.6 volts at different test times.
About 2.5 volts at the side terminal on the starter solenoid.
0.3 to 0.6 between 7 and 13 on the main ECU and similar between 13 and 25 at the ECU.
I'm a bit unsure when it comes to the ignition control unit because mine's a Telefunken and the manual talks about Fairchild or AEG? I think the Fairchild tests apply to the Telefunken but I'm really not sure??
Hall control terminal 7 to ground is 10.5 volts or 7 to terminal 15 at the coil is only 1.6 volts.
Tested terminal 15 to terminal 1 at the coil and got about 5 volts reducing to zero over a couple of seconds.
Tried exchanging the main ECU for another one but got nothing new.
Swapped the large double relay behind the rear light (second hand part) but that made no difference either.
Done various ground tests at different points but found no problems and also carried out various continuity tests with no issues either.
I'm a bit confused by the Functional Wiring Diagram (page 86 of the Digijet training manual) because it only shows 5 unused terminals at the ECU plug but mine has 9 blanks? Or am I using the wrong diagram??
I've read that this could be caused by the ignition switch but haven't really got around to checking that other than to say that it turns over on the key and all the lights and wipers etc work.
Does any of this ring any bells?? Obviously there should more volts at terminals 30 / 87 at the relays but I'm pretty much at a loss now, other than systematically changing out individual parts with new ones.
Any (polite) suggestions much appreciated. Thanks.
Rob
-
Winnie Bagel
- Registered user
- Posts: 11
- Joined: 22 Aug 2012, 20:33
- 80-90 Mem No: 0
- Location: Plymouth area
Re: Fuel injection pump
Thanks to some advice from Aidan I've got the van running.
Whatever the reason, there is an elusive and variable supply to pin 30 on both of the injection relays, nearside of the engine bay, so I've linked them in to the live on the coil and it all works. Thanks Aidan.
Whatever the reason, there is an elusive and variable supply to pin 30 on both of the injection relays, nearside of the engine bay, so I've linked them in to the live on the coil and it all works. Thanks Aidan.