PDM60 power distribution module

[scottbott]

Just been looking in a bike magazine and saw an article about this,seems a good idea,anyone got one or tried something similar??
PDM60 Power Distribution Module with programming cable
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PDM60 Power Distribution Module with programming cable
£129.00
inc VATPart No: ROW-PDM60
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PDM60 Power Distribution Module with programming cable PDM60 Power Distribution Module with programming cable PDM60 Power Distribution Module with programming cable PDM60 Power Distribution Module with programming cable
PDM60 Power Distribution Module with programming cable PDM60 Power Distribution Module with programming cable PDM60 Power Distribution Module with programming cable PDM60 Power Distribution Module with programming cable
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OUR SMALLEST FUSE BOX ! Measures:

Only 4" wide × 2.875" deep × .875" tall.

NOW READ ON...

The old methods of power distribution have gone the way of the floppy disk.

The PDM60:

-Makes adding or removing aftermarket electrical devices\electronics to your vehicle easy.
- Simple to install, simple to use, and simple to own.
- Connects directly to your vehicle battery.
- Offers six power circuits to handle your favorite gadgets and accessories.
- Super bright LED indicators on the PDM60 keep you informed of the status of each circuit.
- Adding or removing aftermarket electrical devices\electronics easy.
- Eliminates the need to check or replace fuses.
- Eliminates the need to install relays to power high amperage applications.
- Plain and simple, with the PDM60 module, your bike will be better equipped.

The PDM60 has been built with components selected for superior power management capability, and extended service life. It's designed with one goal in mind: to provide years and years of superior, hassle free performance. The PDM60 unit is fully encapsulated to protect against rain, dust, humidity, etc. Whether it's riding around the world or cross-country via motorway, these units are built to last under the harshest of conditions.

Welcome to the 21st century of motorcycle electronic power distribution. This compact solid-state fully electronic module is designed to enhance the accessory power distribution system on any motorcycle, including those with CANbus electrical systems like the newer BMWs.

It's got 60 amps total capacity over six circuits with a maximum draw of 15 amps per circuit. It's a completely solid state system, with fault detection and diagnostic LEDs, and operates faster, more efficiently and offers more reliability than its fused counterpart.

This makes it easy to add accessories such as auxiliary lighting, communications equipment and electrically heated clothing, without overloading accessory plugs or creating electrical faults.

If a circuit does short, it is easily reset after the fault has been corrected, eliminating the hassles of locating, pulling and replacing blown fuses ("Does anyone have a spare 10 amp? I'll trade you a 5 and a 15 for a 10...")

Simple installation with a single point connection to the battery, with a direct SAE connector for plugging in a battery charger

. Several operational modes for different circuits: Ignition sensing with "always on," "timed off" or "ignition off" configurations allow wiring some devices that need to stay "live" when the key is off, such as some GPS units and radio memories, and others that don't, like heated grips. One 15 amp circuit is externally switchable with small, low current switches for lighting, etc., meaning no need to add extra relays.

Separate dedicated ground bus wire for applications desiring direct ground to battery. Includes durable wire connector with flexible lead for easy mounting and connection.

Completely waterproof and sealed to IP67 standards. A light, durable, ultra-reliable space age electronic system for all of your bike's powered accessories.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

1. Physical dimensions? (2"H x 3"W x .9"D; so small - about the size of a business card, and less than an inch thick)
2. The unit shown has 6 indicator lights for the six circuits, what are those for?? (The LEDs indicate the condition of the circuit. If it's green, you're good. If it's yellow, it's an inactive or unused circuit, or has been interrupted due to an intermittent fault condition. If the LED is RED, you've have an existing fault on the circuit, and the power has been interrupted.)
3. Do you just splice into the wire for each circuit? No terminals? (Correct, there's one lead per circuit, and no terminals are installed on the circuit power leads. This makes the installation of the PDM60 a breeze, and allows for custom fitting the unit to your vehicle. We keep it compact, and keep it easy)
4. Do you fuse the power line from the battery? (a fuse in the power wire is not required, and would yield no additional benefit\protection. The PDM60 is essentially a self monitoring digital fuse/breaker itself. --)
5. 60 Amps total draw? (That's right, 60 Amps of power handling capability. Load it up.)
6. Is there a large ground to the device? (No - There is a 16AWG ground lead for the internals. Your items\accessories being powered should be grounded themselves to the chassis/frame of the vehicle, or attached to the battery via the ground bus cable included with the PDM60; power does not flow back through the unit... only out.)
7. Is there a warranty on the item?? (Yes, there is a 2 year of in-service usage warranty.
8. If a circuit is shorted and interrupted, when does it reset back to on? At power off and back on? (Yes, you just power the unit down and back up again, and it's reset.
9. With CAN bus systems, if you hook the trigger to the low beam headlamp it will not come on until after the bike is reset and running which is great. But, do all 6 circuits pop on at once for one large load, or do you start them incrementally? (You're correct that the triggering would function as described. In the standard configuration, all the circuits have a 7 second activation delay programmed in. This allows for all of the available power to be used for starting the bike before the system goes live. PDM60 units are programmable. We have a standard configuration, but we also have dashboard software we've developed which allows us to configure individual circuit behavior. (delayed time-outs, delayed-on, triggering, etc. - we have 7 different options to configuring each circuit)
Configuration changes, via the dashboard software, are a breeze to set up. On the standard unit, one of the circuits is externally switchable, which has a ground activated trigger wire. (that feature can be disabled so it operates like all of the other circuits, or you can simply ground the circuit trigger wire and it will activate like all of the other circuits)
10. What if I have an item that draws more than 15Amps?? Simple. You just run a parallel circuit. You utilize two of the circuits (i.e. two 15A circuits (=30A) to power your device. You just connect two circuit leads to your device power lead, ground your device to the frame or other suitable ground point, and you're up and running, fully protected. Keep in mind that any load will be split equally among the two circuits, so each of the circuits used must be able to handle 50% of the total load.
SEE THE VIDEO HERE - paste into your browser:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UES2kHp9so" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
MORE INFORMATION HERE- paste into your browser:
http://pdm60.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[greasemonkey]

My mate has one on his bike, he really likes it.

My personal opinion is they are an expensive way to reinvent the wheel.

A simple secondary fuse block can be bought for a few quid and the subsequent wiring and maintenance are just the same if not simpler.

If you like a visual of which fuse has blown, you can get fuses with LEDs that glow when they pop.

Apart from having to carry spare fuses I couldn't see an advantage.

[nicq]

They have been used in motor racing for years and in higher end cars.
They need a rethink on wiring as they can be used instead of most of the relays.
Main advantage is no power switches like ignition, headlights etc.
All switches are signal wires, can do complex switching arrangements by software, very little changes of electrical fires as unit should be fitted near battery so all power wire is minimal.

[scottbott]

seems clever that you can program certain things as you want to stay on longer or whatever,probably lots of uses,it is expensive though,I do have aux fuse boxes and LED's on certain fuses

[nicq]

We used to use a larger unit on race cars for total car with no relays. Fuel cut from ECU for traction control by can bus. Start inhibit when not in neutral (sequential box) etc
Magic bit of kit but the electrical system needs a total rethink. Not ideal for camper accessories.

[silverbullet]

"Fuel cut ...for traction control"
Did that not run the risk of it going ultra-lean under load? I was under the impression that cutting the spark or even retarding it was safer for the engine?

[nicq]

"Fuel cut ...for traction control"
Did that not run the risk of it going ultra-lean under load? I was under the impression that cutting the spark or even retarding it was safer for the engine?

We built electrical systems for diesel, petrol and LPG.

[silverbullet]

Ok. I read "race car" and assumed spark ignition, not diesel.

[nicq]

Ok. I read "race car" and assumed spark ignition, not diesel.

We did development of pneumatic sequential gearbox as apposed to hydraulic so no bleeding req with all it problems with stiction.

[greasemonkey]

All switches are signal wires, can do complex switching arrangements by software, very little changes of electrical fires as unit should be fitted near battery so all power wire is minimal.

Might be misunderstanding you, but don't think this unit is the same or can do that. One wire tells the unit the ignition is on and a trigger wire can operate a group of lives etc as programmed, there's no other switching wires.

This acts equivalent to a relay triggeed fuse box essentially but with possible ignition on/off timing configurations.

So the power wires still have to run to the accessories regardless. I'm guessing the units you mention are fancier versions but haven't seen them so not sure. Would be interested to see one though, sound quite nifty.

These are good bits of kit, but as above, probably a bit overkill for a camper.

[nicq]

Yes you are correct it is not that clever.
If you are interested look at this http://www.obr.uk.com/pdfs/PCM2_AC.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[greasemonkey]

That looks more like it