Why not a flexible panel?
You already have a rigid ? Or ?
At less than half the weight and only 3mm thick requiring no holes to actually mount I'm surprised!
My concern is that it would overheat. Most panels need clearance to help keep them cool. Just thinking hot Summers. Plus a few have said the connections tend to break away. No, don't have one - just musing the practicalities. Then theres size and getting one that fits between roof ridges.
The problem I'm having is that the run between home and work doesn't keep the batteries topped up if I'm using the Propex, whereas during the time it sits there, it could be topping them up with a panel.
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Gap between ridges is less than 50cm. Flexibles seem to be 56cm or 58cm on shortest side. The only wider space is right at the front but then the curve is both ways which I think will pose a problem.
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Bought some1.5 inch square aluminium box section, bent them to fit curve of roof using my body weight and some wooden chicks to control the curve. Fitted them to standard gutter mount rack feet that grip the box. I got the feet of a van roof rack I bought of gumtree cheap, and I still have the rack behind the shed. I have a thought making the rack mountable on the bars so I can put a dinghy on it but haven't got round to it. No photos as darkbut maybe tomorrow.
Got a sunroof that needs replacing? Audi A8 (D1 & D2) had solar sunroof option, I think for charging an aux battery that powered the ventilation fans when parked up in hot weather...
1985 Oettinger 3.2 Caravelle RHD syncro twin slider. SA Microbus bumpers, duplex winch system, ARC 7X15 period alloys
ethelred the ready wrote:Bought some1.5 inch square aluminium box section, bent them to fit curve of roof using my body weight and some wooden chicks to control the curve. Fitted them to standard gutter mount rack feet that grip the box. I got the feet of a van roof rack I bought of gumtree cheap, and I still have the rack behind the shed. I have a thought making the rack mountable on the bars so I can put a dinghy on it but haven't got round to it. No photos as darkbut maybe tomorrow.
Ralph, don't think cooling is a issue with the flexible ones, they don't require a air gap like the solid ones, and are based on aluminium sheet.
I think rather than trying to go between the ridges, maybe three thin packers in the "valley" to level up to the high sections and not be restricted....
I have a 100w semi flexible panel here that I took off when I put my 150w on, but I don't have the dimensions to hand, I can look tomorrow for you....
There is no issue on either of ours at the junction of the flyleads , not on this spare one I have
I think if the panels are fixed down adequately there is no movement so no stress on them .
If I was putting a panel on a tin top I think I would be tempted to enter the flyleads as close to the panel as I could
Two 6mm holes and a waterproof capture seal would see it .
Thanks Steve. I think you're right buddy. It would make more sense to bridge as you say. I ideally want a 150watt version (would settle for 100watt though). I note that they seem to have fixing holes and some people seem to use standoffs that are stuck on to roof with epoxy, but perhaps tigerseal around edges might be OK?
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Both ours are "sikoflexed " on, they ain't falling off anytime soon!
I was however pleasantly surprised when I wanted to take the 100w one off to put the 150w one onto mine that a long sharp knife enabled me to remove the panel very easily and cleanly . the roof and the panel cleaned up really well and easily too.
No moisture under the panel either , bone dry and clean, just as when I put the panel on, which was encouraging, even on a Hitop !