Won't start...idiot check.

[Smiffo]

Yep! -ve of Batt. to bodywork. I believe that was with the ignition off! I didnt check resistance?

As a side note I recently changed the fuel tank (havent ran it since) so could have trapped/ damaged the dash feed at some point?

Tell me to sod off if this sounds stupid, but you have made sure that the neg post on the battery goes to the earth strap the the body?
Sounds like you have battery in the wrong way round to me

Not too stupid a thing to ask. I did have to check that!

TOPIC REVIEW: WON'T START...IDIOT CHECK.

I'm sure it is something stupid. But I cannot find it. The thing that is throwing me is that it seems to go to "pooh" when I connect the feed to the dash. something I haven't actually messed with.

Well there is definitely an earth strap fault between batt and body then for a start.
To get 12v from body to the neg terminal of the battery, you must have no link between body and neg terminal of battery AND the body must be live with 12v.... ( assuming batt connected correct )

Either something odd that I can't think of is happening, or you have something wired wrong.

What exactly did you disconnect and reconnect?

Try measuring voltage between Pos of battery and body of van.
That should be 12v.
If it isn't, disconnect the wiring to the front of the van you mentioned, and see if the voltage between pos terminal and body then goes to 12v.

Gonna really have to work methodical on this.

[Smosh]

So I cut out the cable that runs from alt to junction box as this isn't required and was severely corroded. I replaced the alternator with a 90amp one and put a heavy duty battery cable to the starter solenoid from the alternator.

I will have a look at the battery with the multimeter again. Make notes of what I checked and what the reading was to ensure I have it correct. These results may have been skewed, whilst using a different battery I used a jump lead which I discovered to be duff as an earth lead. Let me get back to you. And thanks foe your help thus far! Josh.

[Smiffo]

So I cut out the cable that runs from alt to junction box as this isn't required and was severely corroded. I replaced the alternator with a 90amp one and put a heavy duty battery cable to the starter solenoid from the alternator.

I will have a look at the battery with the multimeter again. Make notes of what I checked and what the reading was to ensure I have it correct. These results may have been skewed, whilst using a different battery I used a jump lead which I discovered to be duff as an earth lead. Let me get back to you. And thanks foe your help thus far! Josh.

Get some photos up mate of the connections you did.
From memory, my alternator cable doesn't go to the solenoid - it goes to the same bolt as the heavy duty cable from the battery - and I think that then means that the charge from the altenator goes from alt, to starter motor and then down the really thick starter battery cable ( not the smaller one from ignition circuit that goes to solenoid. )

Take your measurements, then post pics, don't change anything yet so we can start from a point that we know is causing symptoms above.
I'm sure you can sort this.
It must be something really simple, but I am not home to check my wiring and advise, or I would post a pic of mine for you to compare.

[Smosh]

Connection at junction box:


Back of start solenoid:


Alternator:
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh25 ... 20_Pro.jpg

[CovKid]

Looks spot on although you might want to clean the starter connections more. Are you positive the starter actually works?

[Smosh]

Yea I will clean them up at some point. The van is currently on the deck and -50mm so I struggle to get under there! I think the Engine will be coming out in the near future. so will give it all a good clean up then.

Not sure whether it works or not: It certainly did when I parked it up (3 months?) back. Was a bit sluggish but I put that down to bad wiring and battery!

[Smiffo]

OK.

As CovKid says looks OK - measure exact voltage of batt first when it's disconnected. Make sure it's got a good charge if it's been stood for months.
You should have over 12v on it.
( There is a chart somewhere on here that shows % of charge against voltages measured. )

Then reconnect battery make sure you have similar voltage on the large bolt connector of the solenoid, when measured to body of the van.

Then - someone may correct me - take off small wire with spade connector on solenoid.
Voltage - again maybe corrected - should be 0v, until you try and start the van. Then it should be over 12v there between that wire and body of van.

Try that.
If anyone else has better suggestions then chip in.

[Smosh]

Okay just got back from the van and seen your reply smiffo! Doh!

Here is what I know, firstly, I am stupid. The Jump lead I was using as an earth is broke. Clearly it has melted inside somewhere and is good for feck all!

So I used some good wire as an earth.

Here is what I checked:

Battery disconnected from everything: 12.7v


With everything connected: Ignition OFF...........Ignition ON
Battery +ve to chassis = ..........12.7v.................11.52v
Battery -ve to chassis = .............0.02v.................0.50v

With Feed to Dash disconnected: Ignition OFF.....Ignition ON
Battery +ve to chassis = ..........12.7v.................12.7v
Battery -ve to chassis = ............0.02v.................0.02v

It was too dark and I was in work gear so checking the start solenoid was out the question for today . However, I did this the other day before I disconnected everything and was using a low battery with jump pack. I was getting equal feeds to the Solenoid, Alternator and Junction box about 12v.

When I turn the ignition on to its running position, I am getting a click noise from two locations, one in the front one in the back (I think); it was hard to locate as I was on my own. Sounds like a relay clicking on or similar?

[BOXY]

The battery is shagged.

[Smosh]

The battery is shagged.

Really? What tells you that?

[BOXY]

The voltage drop with the ignition on.

[Smosh]

Ah okay!

I thought that was because there was a short somewhere putting a drain on the battery?

[BOXY]

If that voltage drop is just by turning the key to the first position, where there shouldn't be any real load to pull the voltage down, then the battery iffy. Check the voltage as you turn everything on one by one. By the sounds of it by the time you've got your lights, wipers and radio on you'll have no volts left !

[Smiffo]

If that voltage drop is just by turning the key to the first position, where there shouldn't be any real load to pull the voltage down, then the battery iffy. Check the voltage as you turn everything on one by one. By the sounds of it by the time you've got your lights, wipers and radio on you'll have no volts left !

Maybe make sure nothing else is on too that activates when key turned that is causing current draw?
i.e. Blower etc?

I will take your experience on voltage drop Boxy - anything from me on that is a complete guess.

Either way, it looks like you are getting closer Smosh.
Do you have a batt you know is OK that you could try / borrow?

[CovKid]

Its possible the battery doesn't even have enough stamina to turn the starter. Source known good battery and restest. If starter refuses to operate, disconnect battery, remove starter and remove end cap. It may just need some emery paper on the commutator to clean it up. Check there is enough left of the brushes while you're at it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNKSeAAd3rk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;