Which engine and Carb you have - Solex to Pierburg swap

[Smiffo]

You're brave sticking that lot on the tablecloth.

your existing carb and dizzy are 25+ years old and may well last another 20 years, no point hanging around.
swap one at a time.
I'd swap dizzy first then run it with correct timing and solex, just bung up the extra vac pipe from solex.
before you do suck and blow on the new dizzy pipe, check the plate inside moves on suck and that you can't blow.

Ok itchy - I will take a methodical approach when bk from a trip away.

Oh and I faced a world of pain and nagging for putting it all on the table..!!

[Smiffo]

You're brave sticking that lot on the tablecloth.

your existing carb and dizzy are 25+ years old and may well last another 20 years, no point hanging around.
swap one at a time.
I'd swap dizzy first then run it with correct timing and solex, just bung up the extra vac pipe from solex.
before you do suck and blow on the new dizzy pipe, check the plate inside moves on suck and that you can't blow.

While I was sat here pondering the fact that my new gearstick arrived but was a LHD type, I decided to do the `suck and a blow` trick you mentioned.
I can suck and hear a small cick - or better described, it's like a small component inside moves when I suck, and then moves back when I blow.
Once the initial movement is finished, it's like an air seal that stops any more movement unless in the opposite direction...

Does that make sense?
If so, is it the correct operation I should expect?

Cheers.

[ghost123uk]

Butting in here

Your tests make it sound all good. Just to be sure though, it's easy to take the cap off, then the rotor, then carefully remove the grey plastic dust cover, then you can see the base plate moving when you suck, and going back when you release the suck. On re-assembly, iirc, the grey dust cover only fits in a certain position, I think it has a little "tang" on it that locates in a slot.

[Smiffo]

Butting in here

Your tests make it sound all good. Just to be sure though, it's easy to take the cap off, then the rotor, then carefully remove the grey plastic dust cover, then you can see the base plate moving when you suck, and going back when you release the suck. On re-assembly, iirc, the grey dust cover only fits in a certain position, I think it has a little "tang" on it that locates in a slot.

Thanks Ghost123uk.

Yeah, that seems to be what happens.
Although it only moves a few mm before springing back when I stop sucking.

How much displacement should I expect to see?

[bigherb]

How much displacement should I expect to see?

Irrelevant unless you can measure how much you can suck.
Wait till it's on the engine then measure the ignition advance maximum 12-16 deg with between 233-248 mmhg vacuum.

[Smiffo]

Ok, that makes sense.

Need to buy myself a timing light now then.!!
Any old cheap one sufficient for that?

[ghost123uk]

Ok, that makes sense.

Need to buy myself a timing light now then.!!
Any old cheap one sufficient for that?

Only if you can work out and mark the front pulley with the appropriate timing marks. A modern adjustable gun is easier. However, if it's moving ok, as it seems to be, I wouldn't go to all that bother.

[Smiffo]

Ok, that makes sense.

Need to buy myself a timing light now then.!!
Any old cheap one sufficient for that?

Only if you can work out and mark the front pulley with the appropriate timing marks. A modern adjustable gun is easier. However, if it's moving ok, as it seems to be, I wouldn't go to all that bother.

The pulley has some marks on it or indentations. ( You can see them in my photo on page 2 of this discussion. )
If I do change the distributor, would I not need to check the timing after?

Maybe I haven't got that bit right in my mind - or maybe the difference between a timing light and adjustable gun? - so far I have only watched a few YouTube vids on it.!!

[ghost123uk]

The pulley has some marks on it or indentations. ( You can see them in my photo on page 2 of this discussion. )

Yes, those are just the std TDC and actual timing marks, as itchyfeet says.
I have not heard of anyone going to the trouble of working out and grinding timing advance curve marks on a normal WBX motor though.

If I do change the distributor, would I not need to check the timing after?

Yes

Maybe I haven't got that bit right in my mind - or maybe the difference between a timing light and adjustable gun? - so far I have only watched a few YouTube vids on it.!!

An adjustable timing gun is just a timing light that can be adjusted say for 5 degrees BTDC (DG) and then you use the TDC mark as a reference.

Just in case you need it, here is Brickwerks Mr Baxter's words on timing a DG with an adjustable timing gun.

Timing is 5 degrees BTDC, vac advance unplugged and the hose plugged.

Once you undo the vac hose, the revs will drop so you will need to speed it up with the idle speed screw.

Get it warm, the timing being on the pi$$ won't damage it just sat there idling.

Get it running, warm it through, I set timing when I am bleeding the cooling system, you need to set timing warm.

Once it's warm, temp gauge at half, auto choke off then start timing it.

If it's got DIS then unplug them and plug the wires together.

2 marks on the pulley, the big fat one, on the left is the TDC marker, the one on the right, the smaller one that looks like a chisel mark is the timing mark.

Ignore the timing mark, go off the fat one ( TDC mark)and set your timing gun to 5 degrees, then align the big fat mark (TDC mark) to the join in the crank case at 850-900 rpm.

If you then set your gun to zero, and you have the right pulley on (because there is a chance the pulley is wrong and some of the timing settings do differ between engines) then the timing mark may or may not align with the case.

5 degrees is good for unleaded.

Once your set then connect vac advance back up, the idle speed should not shoot up so adjust it back to where it should be with the idle speed screw.

I should take about 2 minutes start to finish!

[Smiffo]

Update time..!!

New bits all sourced, I have TDC lined up, but three more questions to ask before my timing gun turns up tomorrow and I make a start...

1. Can I use the old Distributor cap and rotor arm from the DF distributor, and use that on the DG one?
2. There are two vac lines on my Solex set-up, but only one on the vac unit on the DG distributor - Which one do I need to use from the Carb?
3. More curiosity, but is the timing for the Distributor specifically, or engine type or both?
( last question is more for my curiosity. )

Thanks in advance.
I am going into unknown territory

[itchyfeet]

1. yes as far as I know check it fits
2. Forget the solex it won't be fitted, the Pierburg has two vac pipes exiting at the rear ( towards front of vehicle), the one on the dizzy side connects to your new dizzy which only has one port, the one on the air filter side connects to the air filter flap module, or just cap it off at the carb because you don't really need hot air in this country.
3. timing is for the engine to burn the fuel correctly

Update time..!!

New bits all sourced, I have TDC lined up, but three more questions to ask before my timing gun turns up tomorrow and I make a start...

1. Can I use the old Distributor cap and rotor arm from the DF distributor, and use that on the DG one?
2. There are two vac lines on my Solex set-up, but only one on the vac unit on the DG distributor - Which one do I need to use from the Carb?
3. More curiosity, but is the timing for the Distributor specifically, or engine type or both?
( last question is more for my curiosity. )

Thanks in advance.
I am going into unknown territory

[Smiffo]

1. yes as far as I know check it fits
2. Forget the solex it won't be fitted, the Pierburg has two vac pipes exiting at the rear ( towards front of vehicle), the one on the dizzy side connects to your new dizzy which only has one port, the one on the air filter side connects to the air filter flap module, or just cap it off at the carb because you don't really need hot air in this country.
3. timing is for the engine to burn the fuel correctly

Update time..!!

New bits all sourced, I have TDC lined up, but three more questions to ask before my timing gun turns up tomorrow and I make a start...

1. Can I use the old Distributor cap and rotor arm from the DF distributor, and use that on the DG one?
2. There are two vac lines on my Solex set-up, but only one on the vac unit on the DG distributor - Which one do I need to use from the Carb?
3. More curiosity, but is the timing for the Distributor specifically, or engine type or both?
( last question is more for my curiosity. )

Thanks in advance.
I am going into unknown territory

thanks itchy.

We were discussing before changing Distributor first.
Running on Solex, set timing etc, then swap Pierburg over later?

( I was thinking after a few days to make sure the Distributor works OK consistently for a bit. )

Is it not possible to do it like that then, or will I need to swap it all over at the same time?
( I can post pics of what I have to make more sense if needed. )

[itchyfeet]

ah yes I remember now
I'd use the pipe in the old dizzy that goes to the same position on the new, block up the other pipe.

[Smiffo]

ah yes I remember now
I'd use the pipe in the old dizzy that goes to the same position on the new, block up the other pipe.

Top man - I feel like the plan is coming together....
My mate came through early with the timing gun too..!!

Ooooooschhhhh....

[ghost123uk]

Label your HT leads before removing them. It's amazing how many folk manage to mix them up

Does your setup have one of those ignition stabiliser modules (next to the main ignition amp) that needs bypassing when setting the timing?