Insulation and Sound Deadening

[bmouthboyo]

I am hoping to insulate my van whilst all the interior is out with this stuff:



And I am not sure to do the entire interior, structural beams as well like this:


Or just the panel faces like this:



I would also like to sound deaden the van as much as possible, possibly with Dynamat, but not sure if can justify cost of that yet so might go for cheaper alternative. I also can't get my head around the extent I would need to go to sound deaden, some websites say strips on the panels, others people have don't the entire van inside!

If I insulate everything I am worried that the added thickness is going to cause issues with refitting the auto sleeper interior units as well as the wall carpet we will be replacing:



Can anyone advise on if it is worth the sound deadening? And if there any things I need to look out for with insulating? I hope to get a propex once day and want to ensure the van is as insulated and quite as possible before hand.

[CovKid]

You'll need to insulate behind the dash for maximum effect (not easy with dash in). Sound mostly emanates from engine itself so if you do use sound deadening, you'll mainly need it over engine hatch area and down the slope where back seat would be. I have a thick ex-military rubber mat over mine. Quiet as a mouse. Plus its easy to remove. The other stuff you could use (I had great results with it) is those slot-together play mats ALDI does periodically (about £12). Its also good for stopping the mattress getting cold!

[Bubble Meister]

IVe just completed my rebuild. I used Reckhorn ABX sound deadening direct to the outer skin. I didn't cover then entire van but ensured that more than 25% of each panel was covered. It ended up looking like your 3rd photo. I then added 50mm Kingspan (foam with aluminium on each face). Then finally a vapour barrier of polythene sheeting.

Read up on sound deadening, MLV etc. TalkAudio is a good forum.

Previously, I didn't have the Reckhorn and I can say its definitely reduced the noise inside. It doesn't sound like a panel van anymore! I still have the wind noise up front but Ill address that when I next remove the dash.

I originally bought Rattle Trap sound deadening but read mixed results after. I fitted the Rattle Trap to the Sliding Door - itll be easy to replace later in life. I used the Reckhorn on the rest of the van as itll be buried by the camper interior. I must say that the Reckhorn seemed easier to use and mould. Apparently it is butyl rubber with adhesive on one side and aluminium on the other. The sound deadening material of Rattle Mat seems open to debate when reading a few forums.

Ive never used Dynamat so cant compare it to the Reckhorn but consider what are they both designed to do and what is the comparative cost? Ill let you decide.

[smurfbus]

forgive the ignorance on this one, but how did you fix the foil insulation to the panels? Thinking this might a job for the weekend as I have the interior out at the moment and have new trim panels waiting to be fitted.

[Jonnyb416]

You can spray glue or use the foil tape that is designed to cover joins in the foil bubble.

[Tobias13]

I took a different approach!!

I used the foil insulation on the backs of all panels and on the body work behind the kitchen and wardrobe.

sound insulation was used on the floor from the engine bay to the battery boxes, nothing forward of the seats.

van is toasty warm and very quiet.

[scaltura]

3M do an alloy foil tape for sound deadening , it's a new product

not the cheapest , but it's awesome product

close the door ......... sounds like a golf

[garyd]

Can I jump in and ask a few questions related to what's been said above?

There are two options mentioned in relation to fitting insulation - either stick direct to the steel skin or attach to the interior trim panels. Is there a definitive answer to which is best? My concern with attaching to inner panels would be that the air in the cavity is on the cold side and therefore more prone to condensation (and rust?). Does sticking to the outer skin keep the cavity warmer and less likely to condense?

Bubble Meister mentions installing a 'vapour barrier' of plastic sheeting. I assume that this is similar to what appears to be factory fitted to the front doors. Plastic sheeting, held by double-sided tape to cover all the openings through the inner body/door frame to the cavity? Does this effectively reduce the amount of water vaopour getting into the cavity?

I've got my interior all stripped out at present so now is a good time to decide how best to put it back.

thanks