Fuel Hose / Line

[Smosh]

What size do I need? I don't want to assume what is on there is correct based on previous work done!
I am looking to replace from tank to carb and back, as well as breathers.
I have trid to look on the wiki; but I am getting an error returned? http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Fu ... Fuel_hoses Previously when I looked it quoted both 5.5mm and 7mm?

Searching the forum I found this useful thread... http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=142700

Brickwerks do a complete kit. Given that the correct grade of rubber hose can be quite expensive I'd say it'll pay to replace as much as possible with plastic. When I did mine a couple of years ago I used 8mm kunifer, which meant I could route it all the way into the engine bay - I only have short lengths of rubber hose to replace now.

&

Ah, ok. The plastic is available on its own. This place has what looks like the right stuff in various diameters. Brickparts-uk on ebay has the 6mm stuff too. It's worth considering the kunifer too in my opinion - it'll never corrode and can be shaped very easily, like brake lines, so you can route it in one continuous length. You can get this in different diameters too, to suit whatever spigot size would be at the other end of the joining rubber hose.

Unfortunately Brickwerks have no return line kits available due to a lack of quality return valves.
Covkid also suggested using plastic pipes.

So my questions are:
- How much can I replace in plastic/ kuniper?
- Does Dia. matter?
- What connectors should I use? I know not to use Jubilee clips after my search
- How much rubber fuel line & what dia?
- what should I use on breather pipes?
- how does switching to plastic or kuniper affect the insurance?

Should I just buy the Brickwerks complete kit?

I don't know if I am asking silly questions, however, with as these vans seem to be a massive fire risk I want to make sure I get it right!

Thanks,

Josh

[CovKid]

Why not just go to your local motor accessory shop? Thats where I got all mine.

[Smosh]

Because neither of them have rated fuel line and I don't know what size!?

[CJH]

I think it would be sensible to measure the various spigot sizes if you have a caliper, but on my 1983 DG I had the following:

- Fuel tank outlet: 8mm
- Fuel pump inlet: 8mm
- Fuel pump outlet: 6mm
- Carburettor inlet: 6mm
- Carburettor outlet: 6mm
- Fuel tank inlet: 8mm

You'll need 7mm hose for any 8mm spigots, and 5.5mm hose for any 6mm spigots. The two longest runs - fuel tank to pump, and carb back to fuel tank - would be quite expensive in the best hose, so it pays to do as much of that as you can in rigid, either plastic or kunifer. I don't know how well the plastic can be curved permanently, so you may have to restrict it to straight lengths and then do all the curves in rubber hose. I did both sides of mine in Kunifer, which bends like brake pipe, so I was able to run it all the way into the engine bay. Now when I replace the hose I only have short sections to do. I used 8mm Kunifer because that's the same outside diameter as the tank and pump (inlet) spigots.

In the run from the tank to the pump you'll need a filter. The cheap plastic ones tend to have stepped spigots so they can be used with 5.5mm and 7mm hose, but since it'll be between two 8mm spigots it only really needs 8mm spigots itself.

In the run from the carb back to the tank you'll need to link the 6mm carb spigot to the 8mm tank spigot so obviously you're going to need some kind of reducing adapter. Don't be tempted to push 5.5mm hose over an 8mm spigot, as it'll likely stretch and split. You'll also need to put the non-return valve in this section, so it would be nice if you could get one with a 6mm spigot on the inlet side and an 8mm spigot on the outlet, but I didn't see one like that. I believe Brickwerks do a short piece of hose that reduces from 7mm to 5.5mm, so that would be ideal to link the carb outlet to the non-return valve inlet. I used a brass reducing union that I bought off ebay.

[300CE]

There's a full kit available here - not sure if anyone's bought one though who can comment on it:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... ID=EBAY-GB" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[CJH]

That looks like a nice kit. I'd pay the extra for the R9 hose and the stainless clips myself.

[CovKid]

Agree. Good kit and great value. Stainless yes if you can afford it. Nice touch with the grommets.

[Smosh]

Thank you all for your responses! I like the idea of replacing it with kuniper, do you need proper connectors or simply slide rubber hose over it?
That kit is very tempting though, is the difference between R9 & R7 significant, as the price is?

[keith]

Even the most expensive option isnt alot of money.....do it once, do it right.
I would go with the best hose and stainless fixings every time

[CovKid]

And check them at least annually.

[jacobh]

Don't put your fuel filter in the engine bay but under the van near the fuel tank.
The filter that is in the ebay add I don't know if that is up to the job.
On my DH 1.9 (injection) there is a MANN filter that is larger and has less
restriction in flow.

Jacob

[CJH]

Thank you all for your responses! I like the idea of replacing it with kuniper, do you need proper connectors or simply slide rubber hose over it?

Just slide the hose over it, and put a hose clip round it.

That kit is very tempting though, is the difference between R9 & R7 significant, as the price is?

Yes - R9 has better resistance to ethanol, which is used increasingly in our fuel. It can also cope with the pressure of fuel injection systems, but that's not an issue with your DG engine. Some info here. There are stories of fuel hoses failing very quickly (I think I read an example of days or weeks on here) if they're not ethanol-resistant.

[CJH]

Don't put your fuel filter in the engine bay but under the van near the fuel tank.
The filter that is in the ebay add I don't know if that is up to the job.
On my DH 1.9 (injection) there is a MANN filter that is larger and has less
restriction in flow.

Jacob

Good point about the location of the filter - keep the number of connections in the engine bay to a minimum. I've used those cheap filters under the van for the last couple of years, and they work fine. A benefit of the transparent housing is that you can easily see when it needs changing.

[Smosh]

I followed that link to the article on fuel hoses, was interesting. Definitely going R9 over R7 even though it wont be pressurised.

I will place a single fuel filter in, just after the outlet from the tank. That way it is easy to check and will prevent any risk of melting/leaking in the engine bay or spillage when changing it!

I think I will go with the kit (R9 + Stainless). I am currently fixing the van on the inlaws tarmac drive and they don't seem too impressed so quicker is better. I do like the idea of the metal lines and will look to use this next time around.

Just wanted to say a thanks to everyone's input especially CJH for such detailed replies. I'll get some pics up and let you know how the kit fits.

Cant say I have ever seen a fuel pump on my van!?

Thanks,
Josh

[Smosh]

So this fuel pump... is it important? I cant find one on mine!