With all three of my relays still connected, and my meter connected in circuit between the blue wire and the alternator's binding post, I get 2V and 23mA
With the blue wire reconnected to the binding post, and each relay disconnected and measured in turn, I get:
- Fridge relay: 1.6V and 16mA
- Towing Relay #1: 1.4V and 16mA
- Towing Relay #2: 1.4V and 16mA
With all three relays disconnected and the meter back in circuit at the alternator's binding post, I get 75mA. The voltage is at virtually battery voltage because the current through the voltmeter isn't enough to light the dashboard LED now (it remained lit for all the other tests though).
That 75mA is satisfyingly close to the sum of the original measurement and the three relays (23+16+16+16=71).
And the acid test - with the relays removed the dashboard light goes out at a noticeably lower rpm than with them connected. That must be the impact of the increase from 23mA to 75mA for the exciter current.
Now, where's that master cylinder...
"I'm a man of means, by no means....King of the Road!"
With blue connected I get 1.5V blue to earth ( field windings and any diodes) and 160mA flowing ( sure I saw 185mA when first switched and batt voltage good) 90A bosch.
I may never have tested the 90A bosch for self excitement I tested the old lucas for sure, job for tomorrow, not revving the nuts off when cold
Last edited by itchyfeet on 17 Aug 2015, 17:50, edited 1 time in total.
How are you measuring current if not by disconnecting the blue and putting the meter in the circuit? Have you got a really fancy ammeter that clamps around the wire?
"I'm a man of means, by no means....King of the Road!"
itchyfeet wrote:
you could find a high resistance coil relay and use that to trigger all the other relays
That's an idea. It would mean a bit of rewiring, or perhaps two high resistance relays, as my fridge relay is by the fridge and my towing relays are in the wardrobe. Or maybe I could just replace all three of them with high resistance versions. Maybe I could add suitable resistors to the three existing relays instead. I've got all the numbers I need to figure out what power and resistance values they'd need, and I can probably find out what's the minimum voltage the relays need to trigger reliably. But actually you know, I think I'm happy enough the way it is - the alternator works perfectly at normal driving rpm.
Plenty here for the OP to go at though if he's interested in lowering the rpm at which the alternator kicks in. :tongue in cheek:
"I'm a man of means, by no means....King of the Road!"
Definitely, yes. I love things like this. Mind you, there's no guarantee I'll remember any of it when my alternator stops working due to a fault with that little blue wire.
"I'm a man of means, by no means....King of the Road!"
itchyfeet wrote:
I may never have tested the 90A bosch for self excitement I tested the old lucas for sure, job for tomorrow, not revving the nuts off when cold
Just tested the 90A Bosch with blue wire disconnected and it self excited at a little over 3000rpm engine revs (alt will be lower revs) voltmeter shows when it starts producing voltage hight than the batt, let engine revs drop and it continues.
It had been run so it's just possible it still had some residual magnetism (if thats possible), maybe from cold it doesn't do it but I'm not revving it cold.
Oh, well that's different from mine. Different model numbers perhaps? Mine's an 0120 469 727, which, according to the Bosch Automotive Catalogue, was discontinued in March 1992. It was superseded by the 0120 469 734, and then by the 0120 469 863.
What model is yours?
"I'm a man of means, by no means....King of the Road!"
Mine has a red sticker on the end cap. if that's gone I guess there's no way to tell. Oh well. Was yours always on your van, or have you sourced it from another vehicle?
"I'm a man of means, by no means....King of the Road!"