1981 2.0cu , distributor replacement, oh dear again, Update!

[Richiee722]

hi guys
I've got a 1981 westy with the 2.0 cu engine.
The lack of speed and running issues have been diagnosed as knackered vacuum units on my dizzy.
It's still running the original twin vacuum advance unit ( although the retard is left disconnected as somebody fitted webers ? ),
Anyway, can I get replacement units as I can't seem to find the same dizzy for sale anywhere ?
Or can I fit a single vacuum jobby, and if so which one ??
Thanks in advance

[dickie14]

A single vacuum 'dual' advance one should be fine - if I understand correctly the vacuum retard function is to help emissions when idling so not that necessary.

I've had a cheap chinese eBay one fitted for years and it's been fine. Just be sure to avoid getting an 009!

[sarran1955]

Hello,

This may help:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkyBAMMHpa4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cordialement,

[Richiee722]

Cheers guys.
I havnt had chance to watch all the video yet but does anyone know if I buy one of those spark rite ones will my original coil work work with it ( might be stupid question but I only bought it a very recently ) ?
Cheers again
Richard

[sarran1955]

Hello,

Sparkrite.. or similar is available from Simon BBC on e bay.

Use the low resistance , transistorised ignition coil that came with the original dizzy.

Hope this helps,

Cordialement,

[Richiee722]

Hi there again
I replaced the coil like for like .
I can't remember the resistance but I think it's a Bosch one and was about £70 .
Do u think I should dig out the paperwork or just get the spark rite kit that comes with a new coil ( just to be sure).
Thanks again in advance
Richard

[Asw]

trust sarran1955.. trust me....

[Richiee722]

Hi again
Ok, cheers for your input guys

[Richiee722]

i thought I had resolved this issue and was on the homeward stretch !
As suggested I changed the distributor for a svda one from brickwerks ( I think I got the high energy one which I was advised was ok for my van ).
The coil is also new and is a Bosch transistor one , also from brickwerks.
When I fitted it , it ran lovely for a few miles but when I stopped it wouldn't start again.
When I took the cap off, to my horror, the top of the rotar arm had melted and was all spun around inside the dizzy cap like candy floss ??
I talked to our friends at brickwerks who were great and pointed me in the right direction and we came to the conclusion that it was probably due to the fact that I also left the module thingy connected , oops( I also checked the coil resistance just to make sure it was ok with the new dizzy ).
All the old wiring was disconnected and there was just an ignition live and a negative going to the coil and I seemed it was resolved.
I have only done about 20 miles in very short increments since but It won't start now, there is no spark ?
Leads and plugs are very recent, is there anything I can check first to see if it's the coil or distributor faulty or is it just a coincidence and something else at fault .
There is definately 12v going to the coil .
Sorry to waffle on , just trying to give you all the full picture

[bigherb]

Put some picture up of the rotor arm and also the new distributor it sounds like the rotor arm was rubbing inside the cap.
There are two types of replacement distributor one uses the original ignition amplifier and coil the other has an inbuilt amplifier and needs a coil designed for points ignition which one did you fit?

[Richiee722]

Hi Big Herb
Thanks for the reply.
I'll have to have a read of how to upload some photos .
The one I fitted was a 034 high energy power spark one from SBC ( I think it's a brickwerks company ),
I did message them first and they said it was suitable, as long as I had the original or equivalent coil.
The coil was also very new ( again from brickwerks ) Bosch , early ( DIN ) 0 221 122 023.
I've cleaned the rotar arm up and the cap contacts and tried switching for my old cap & rotar but still no spark.
The new cap had sort of like black plastic on the top which melted everywhere.
I removed all the old wiring and thought I'd cracked it but I'm sure a bit more had melted unless there was some bits in the dizzy somewhere coz there was a little bit more on the contacts .
What's the best way to check if there's power going from the coil to the dizzy ?
I'll take some photos of my engine bay, dizzy wiring and coil etc in the morning.

[Richiee722]

Quick update.
I've taken off the lead to the dizzy and put it against engine and turned it over.
I was expecting it to spark continuously ? But it sparks once when you turn the ignition on and that's it.
I did take the wires off yesterday after it broke down and I'm assuming I've put them back on correctly.
I've taken some photos, this is my 1st attempt at uploading .

[bigherb]

Right you got it from Powerspark not Brickwerks why I couldn't find it on the Brickwerks site. Original SVDA distributors use an external amplifier. Powerspark/Accuspark/Hotspark use internal amplifiers, if it is the high energy version then the coil is OK for that type. There s also a none high energy version which uses a 3 ohm coil.
I doesn't look like you have it wired correctly you seem to have a black wire going to the wrong coil terminal (have you a better picture of all the wire routing) And is the distributor turning when you crank the engine?

[Richiee722]

Hi again big herb.
The dizzy is the high energy one.
I talked to Brickwerks and they recommended a Lucas Dlb 198 coil so I've just ordered one, I'll just keep it as a spare if it turns out not to be the coil.
I'll try and explain the wiring as I can't really get any better pics.
On the top pin ( negative ) , the one brown wire is for a tacho, the other is the negative to a facet fuel pump relay and the black Ons is the negative to the dizzy.
On the bottom pins ( + )
The brown is the positive to the fuel relay , the purple is the positive to the dizzy, and the black one joined to the purple one goes to that little black box next to the coil.

[bigherb]

What type of fuel pump relay is it?
Try it with the tacho and the fuel pump wires disconnected to eliminate them.
Is the distributor turning?