carburettor removal and cleaning

[stokeseys1974]

Hi all. Had van1.9dg lpg conversion running but stalls when trying to pull away.

So switched to lpg and I am able to pull away without cutting out. So do I need to remove carb to give it a good clean out. What is the process of doing it.

I've tried taking top of carb and covering but because of the lpg conversion and studs sticking up and can't do this.

Any advice / idea's

Thanks

[ghost123uk]

A few points.

Stripping the carb is easy. The studs should not be a problem. But, before you even consider it, you need to think about a couple of things.
A) - Have you obtained a new gasket yet? (you will 95% for sure need it, the old one will likely get damaged on splitting the carb)
B) - Have you checked all the other "things" outside of the carb that might cause your symptoms?

Not saying it's not a blocked jet, it could be, but best check and remedy any other "iffy" things first. Check ALL vac pipes. Check the servo hose for leaks (common). Check dizzy advance retard unit for correct operation (I just had to replace mine). Check main fuel filter and the tiny "cone" one inside the pipe stub on the carb. Check the fuel pump is delivering a good flow of fuel at tickover (use a pop bottle to check, the engine will tick over long enough off the fuel in the float chamber to check this. take care, petrol burns easily )

If you don't find any problems there, then consider splitting the carb (after buying a gasket ). Note that simply cleaning a carb (with carb cleaner) rarely does any good. You need to check all the air and fuel ways by blowing through them. A length of soft silicone pipe helps there. Don't ever poke jets clean with wire. Use a bristle off a broom or sweeping brush, or similar. Even minor damage to the inside of a jet can adversely affect it. Don't use any form of gasket goo when reassembling.

Note, that fast idle / choke / blah blah complicated mechanism, on the left hand side of the carb, is only fully understood by our "Kev the Rev"

p.s. - I have found that mucky carbs, inside and out, clean up very well with just hot water laced with a good squirt of Fairy liquid It seems better than Carb cleaner when it comes to those sticky deposits you often get at the bottom of the float bowl (caused by using fuel with Ethanol in it which I don't)

p.p.s. - Gasket here = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pierburg-Carb ... 25a87620ef" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Full kit here = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-T25-T3-Car ... 23541adcc8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[stokeseys1974]

Cheers for the advice.
Just a few questions
Which is the servo hose
Where is the tiny cone and is it easy to remove
Where is the advance retard unit and how do I check it's operation
Would I be able to clean jets (with a bristle) whilst carb is still fitted.

Sorry for the question, but still finding my way around the watercooled engine lol

Thanks again

[CovKid]

Which is the servo hose - over to the left (back) of engine bay - usually braided cloth type.
Where is the tiny cone and is it easy to remove - its hidden in the brass inlet that the fuel hose pushes on to on carb. You need to remove clip holding hose on, pull off hose off then use a self tapping screw to drag it out. Its tucked inside.
Where is the advance retard unit and how do I check it's operation - on the distrubutor - big thing. Lots on here about testing dizzy vacuum unit.
Would I be able to clean jets (with a bristle) whilst carb is still fitted. No. Needs removing and top of carb removing - hence need for gasket kit. A clean is a clean but not hard to do once you get started.

[ghost123uk]

Where is the advance retard unit and how do I check it's operation - on the distributor - big thing. Lots on here about testing dizzy vacuum unit.

Thing stuck on the side of the dizzy with a vac pipe attached which goes to the front of the carb (as you're looking at it).

Take the dizzy cap off, pull the rotor arm off, take off the grey dust cover, look at the inside of the dizzy whilst you suck on the pipe.
A) = you should see the base plate inside the dizzy move when you suck.
B) = You should only be able to suck for a very brief time, if you can continue to suck air through the pipe, the diaphragm is punctured. Also you can hear the air hissing gently if you put your ear near the dizzy whilst sucking if it is knackered. New ones are around £35 from Brickwerks.

[stokeseys1974]

Thanks both. I'll give it a try hopefully this evening