How big a can of worms?!! Trailing Arm!

[chuggers72]

rusted out resize.jpg

So I'm fitting new Bilsteins and springs to the ol' gal - drop out the old spring and realise the trailing arm may be a little more rusted out than originally thought!

I've ordered a couple of repair sections from Brickwerks already and now contemplating a full trailing arm off / refurb / new bushes plan of action.

I've had a good ol trawl through the forum/wiki etc and got some good info along with a couple of warnings of not to try it!; however, I'm not one for doing half a job.

Question is: how much of a b******d is it to get the trailing arm bolts out if they are fully seized - and I think the outer ones are!

All trailing arm tales welcomed no matter how bad!

[kevtherev]

There you go .. not just content with opening a can of worms, actively looking for another
Do you like driveway ornaments?





prepare for the worst. I wouldn't do the bushes myself, I just don't have the tooling.

[chuggers72]

There you go .. not just content with opening a can of worms, actively looking for another
Do you like driveway ornaments?.

Ha...very amusing - are you suggesting this might take a while... As far as I can tell every jobs a can of worms - this is just the Tesco value supersize XL tin

I'm think of going down the reciprocating saw route rather than fanny around grinding down bolts etc.

I've read that the geometry on the arms need setting up following replacement - is this difficult - I cant find much technical info on this.

[CovKid]

Not a huge job. Just remove remains of old plate, clean up, treat any rust and weld on the new one. I had mine purpose made from much thicker steel than anything else out there. If you need to replace plastic ring that goes on top, you can cut one out from the side of an old heavyweight nylon water container.

As for geometry, just note position of outside bolt/washer if you actually remove the arm. In most cases you don't need to remove arm anyway, in which case geometry is unaffected.

As Kev says, removing arm (and presumably trying to replace trailing arm bushes) will REALLY test your patience. Weld in situ - be a lot simpler.

[silverbullet]

The bushes have case-hardened sleeves so require a carbide blade in a recip saw, or you risk damaging the jacking point bracket.

[CovKid]

In short, just don't remove trailing arms unless you have tools to do it or time needed.

[chuggers72]

Appreciate the advice - i'll take it and leave the bushes for the time being! Will look to do it over winter at some point.

[george2490]

My trailing arm is rotten and removal is underway. The nuts and bolts are rusted solid as expected.
I am thinking cutting the whole lot away is the answer.
Any advice before I do this?
Further, can anyone advise on stockist of the bolts and nuts?
Cheers,
George

[tforturton]

Campervanculture have just started selling top-hat sections for exactly this purpose.

[clift_d]

The top hat trailing arm repair section is also available from Brickwerks.

[george2490]

Top Hat is no use to me, the whole thing is rotten, cut out the bolt side but nut still holding fast!
Manyana I am going angle grinder crazy, I will reduce the whole arm to smoke and sparks.
I don't understand why I can't belt the remaining bolt out, I often resort to the grinder but this is first time I have had a refusal.
by this time tomorrow by hook or by crook the new arm will be in place, if I can find new bolts!
Any advice on where stocks new bolts or what size I need for the two forward fixings?

[clift_d]

The bush has a case-hardened central steel sleeve and the bolt often binds solid into that meaning you can't just punch it out once you've cut the end off.

As above, probably best to cut carefully through sleeve and bolt between the inner face of the jacking point tab and the end of the trailing arm using a reciprocating saw with carbide blade.

[chuggers72]

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/ ... ing%2Barm/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Great link from Brickwerks that will hopefully help.

[george2490]

Arm off at last, The holes in the mounting are not round.
Anyone know if this is as intended or are they ovalised and needing some fettling?

[clift_d]

If you mean the holes in the mounting brackets on the chassis, these are elongated to allow scope for the wheels to be aligned properly. One bracket has holes that are elongated vertically to allow adjustment for camber (the outer bracket if I recall correctly) and the other horizontally to allow adjustment for toe.