Master cylinder failed.....HELP

[Justavan]

Just had the brakes fail on my 1900 MV Doka...!

Can any of you chaps tell me what's involved in taking out the dash board to get to it and is and are the parts Syncro specific or are the same as 2 wheel drive.

As far as I've heard there are sheer bolts holding the steering colum in and apart from that it should be a straight forward strip down and replace....

Any tips on tackling this task would be greatly appreciated .....

Justavan

[Dollytony]

I used these to remove the sheer bolts, worked a treat.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-gr ... tAodgGIADw" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[lloydy]

you don't have to remove the dash to change the master cylinder, should be able to do it all in situ

[Titus A Duxass]

As Lloyd says, it's a simplish task. No need to remove the dash.

I experienced the same failure a few years back.

[Justavan]

Thanks guys,

I kind a thought it could be done through the speedo binicle.

Gone and striped the dash board of as I had a few niggling issues that needed further investigation.

Slight leak from the he Heater matrix, a horn that likes to toot on its own, and the clutch push rod for ordeal in serious need of adjustment.

Which brings me to my next question.... How are you supposed to take up the free play in the clutch master cylinder push rod when you can't get your hand to it.

Is it a case of taking out the cylinder on its flexi hose and adjusting the rod .... Or do you drop down the whole pedal assembly.
As I'm buggered if I can see how it's supposed to be done.

Oh and to top it all it turns out the fluid that was pissing onto my shoes and rendering the brakes useless was due to brake warning switch leeking through the cable connectors ........AAAaaargh......

[pirate-pete]

That makes it easier as you don't even need to change your brake master cylinder. Worst thing would be if your master cylinder leaked at the front and filled the servo with because they are a lot worse to change. I had to remove servo and pedal assembly together and it is a tight fit getting them back in again through the gaps behind the crossmember/ventilation duct.

Hopefully you can sort your tooting horn without having to remove the whole dash. The heater matrix might be more difficult if you need to replace but you could try radweld or have a peek to see if it is leaking from a hose joint. As for the clutch then you could try and remove the bolts holding the master to the pedal assembly and see if there is enough slack on the pipes to lower it away from the pushrod. If not then you will probably have to undo the pipes to the master. You should then be able to access the pushrod adjustment as the pushrod will be hanging down from the clevis.

Good practice anyhow to renew all the fluid. Just make sure you can undo the bleed nipple at the slave first or else factor in replacing the slave too and any pipework that you need to butcher in case of seized unions. My slave was just a fused lump of rust but at least I was able to free the union from the rear flexi to the long rigid pipe.

[Justavan]

Got he dash out no probs and fixed brakes and all the probs I've been suffering for a while as they were minor faults and didn't stop me using the Doka every day....

Now I've got a couple of new ones which are the oil and water temp lights flashing all the time....Aaaggrrhhh

I've been over all the wiring, connectors, senders and they are still bloody well flashing.

And yes I've checked all the earth points and block connector onto the speedo pod.

Seems every time I get rid of one electrical gremlin I end up with another one soon after....Lol ..